1、INCH-POUND MIL-J-8703 5D 4 August 1994 SUPERSEDING 22 June 1989 MIL-J-87035C MILITARY SPECIFICATION JUMPER, MANS (BLUE, DRESS) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility and the Department of the Navy. This specification is available for use by all depa
2、rtment and agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a wool serge jumper 1.2 Classification. The jumper shall be of one type only in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2): Sizes: 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, and 52 Le
3、ngths: Extra Short, Short, Regular, Long, and Extra Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications. standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the
4、 issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitations (see 6.2). Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of u
5、se in improving this document should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FQSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19 101-84 19, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this do
6、cument or by letter. AMSC NIA FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-J-87035D m 999990b L98bb48 bbT m MIL- J-87035D SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50
7、 198 A-A-50 199 A-A-520 16 A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 NN-P-7 1 MILITARY - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (
8、General Use) - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) MIL-C-368 MIL-C-823 MIL-P-15011 MIL-B- 17 143 MIL-B- 17757 MIL-C-2 1852 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill Rayon - Cloth, Serg
9、e, Wool; Wool and Nylon; Polyester and Wool - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, 4-Way Entry - Buttons, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Taffeta, Nylon ST-ANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-75 1 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY
10、 MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-2073- 1 - DOD Materials Procedures for Development and Application of MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes Packaging Requireme
11、nts (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of Federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 191 11-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings. and publications. The followi
12、ng other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. RULES AND REGULATIONS UNDER THE TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTS IDENTIFICATION ACT (Copies may be obtained without
13、 charge from the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580-000 1 .) U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S Government Printing Ofice, Washington, D.C. 20402-000 1 .) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking
14、permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-J-7035D m 9999906 198bb49 5Tb m MIL-J-87035D DRAWING NAVY CLOTHING AND TEXTILE RESEARCH FACILITY STITCH ENLARGEMENT DRAWING NUMBERS 16- 1-872 3/8 inch seam allowance for shoulders, yokes, and collar at neck joining seams; and 114 inch seam allowance for joi
15、ning outer edges of collar and sleeves to cuffs. Unless otherwise indicated in Table I, seams shall be in accordance with these seam allowances. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts for the jumper shall be cut from the material specified in accordance with the following pattern parts: Basic mate
16、rial Cloth, Serge, Wool Cloth, Twill Pattern Darts Back Front Sleeves Back yoke Front yoke Top collar Under collar cuffs Inside patch pocket Flap for inside patch ocket Pocket welt Pocket facing Outside breast pocket Cut parts 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or
17、 networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-J-87035D = 9999906 LBbb53 T27 W MIL-J-87035D 3.6 Construction 3.6.1 Stitches. seams and stitchinns. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-75 1. Whenever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are g
18、iven for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. Ali seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose
19、 stitching. Where stitch type 401 or 101 is used, the looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the jumper. Unless otherwise specified topstitching and edge stitching shall be 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. Double needle stitching shall be 1/4 (i 1/16) inch gauge with the outer row of stitchin
20、g 1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge. During the overedge operations, a knife shall be used for trimming off loose thread ends. Buttonholes shall be cut clean and the stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable provided it does no
21、t show on the outside. 3.6.2 Thread breaks and end of seams. End of all seams and stitching shall be backtacked not less than 318 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching when not caught on other seams or stitching (except label) shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. The ends of the la
22、bel stitching shall be overlapped not less than 3 stitches. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be repaired by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 stitch type may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. Where stitch type 401 or 101 is permitt
23、ed as an option, it shall not be used unless ends are caught in other seams or stitching. Use of additional basting to facilitate manufacturing is acceptable. 3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.7 Manufacturing operations r
24、equirements. The jumpers shall be manufactured in accordance with all operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified, provided the finished jumpers are identical to those produced by following the sequence of operat
25、ions as specified in Table 1. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Pressing. All pressing operations referenced in Table I sh
26、all be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. 3.7.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts shall be marked to ensure a uniform shade and size throughout the jumper. Any method may be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices b. Sew-on shade tickets c. Adhes
27、ive-type tickets which discolor, or whose adhesive sticks to the material upon removal of the tickets NOTE: The use of ink and numbering machine, rubber stamp, or pencil is acceptable provided the numbers do not show through the outside of the jumper. Whenever possible, numbers shall be covered by t
28、he seam allowance. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-J-87035D 99999Ob 19bb54 9b3 MIL-J-87035D 3.7.3 Abbreviations in table of operations. The abbreviations used in Table I are as follows: Stch in Ndl Bob LPr Mchne Brick Comrcl sml
29、r Btnhl incl dbl wh blk Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Commercial similar Buttonhole including double white black 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-J-87035D m 99999Ob 198bb55 8TT m eerr NO. 1. 2. 3. 4. MIL-J-8703
30、5D TABLE I. CONSTRUCTION OF JUMPER OPERATION Cutting. a. The jumper shall be cut in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which shall shoM size, shape, and directional lines for cutting, and notches and pattern marks for proper assembly of parts. Perforated paper markers are prohibited on wool.
31、 b. All component parts shall be cut from one piece of material, except inside pocket and inside pocket flap, which may be cut from ends. Parts cut from ends shall be a good match to the main assembly. ReDlacement of defective components. During the spreading, cutting, and manufacturing process, com
32、ponents with matenal defects or damages that are classified as defects in section 4 shall be removed from production and replaced with nondefective and properly matched components. Shade and size marking. (see 3.7.2) All parts shall be marked or ticketed to ensure a uniform shade, size, and proper a
33、ssembly throughout the garment, except those parts cut from ends. Make outside mcket. Pocket welts shall be formed with an automatic double weit pocket machine. Each weit shall finish 118 inch wide. Welts shall be even and uniform with no raw edges, distortion, gapping. or overlapping at the ends of
34、 the pocket. The welt pocket shall be made on the left front only. a. Position pocket facing on the inside of the pocket piece opposite the welt location marks. Turn under inner edge of facing or overedge and stitch to the pocket piece (If cut on selvage, facing need not be overedged). b. Position p
35、ocket piece on inside of yoke in accordance with pattern marks with the long poriion of the pocket below welt marks. c. Insert weit piece in the pocket machine. Form welts. d. Turn welts to finished position. Turn lower raw edge of welt under and stitch to pocket piece. Caution shall be exercised in
36、 performing this operation so that no distortion or bulging results. STCH TYPE 503, 504 or 602 incorrect; illegible; of improper size location, Any component missing, damaged, or not as specified. Inadequate application of components, such as: sequence, or method of application. Incomplete closure o
37、f container flaps, loose strapping, inadequate stapling, or improper taping. Bulged or distorted container . Number of jumpers per shipping container is more or less than Size shown on one or more items not as specified on shipping required. I/ container. 2/ Open and non-continuous heat sealed seams
38、 and closure of polyethylene bag. 2/ Alternate closure of polyethylene bag not provided with tuck Omission of required vent hole in polyethylene bag. 21 or reverse flap. z/ - 1/ One shipping container in the sample shall be examined. - 21 For these defects, one package shall be examined from each sh
39、ipping container in the sample. 4.4.4 Palletization examination. An examination shall be made to determine that the palletization complies with the section 5 requirements. Defects shall be scored in accordance with the list below. The sample unit shall be one palletized unit load fully packaged. The
40、 lot size shall be the number of palletized unit loads in the end item inspection lot. The inspection level shall be S-1 and the AQL, expressed in terms of defects per hundred units, shall be 6.5 as specified in MIL-STD-105. Examine Defect I Finished dimension requirements Palletization Weight Marki
41、ng Length, width, or height exceeds specified maximum Pallet pattern not as specified. Interlocking of loads not as specified. Load not bonded with required straps as specified. Exceeds maximum load limits. Omitted; incorrect; illegible; of improper size, location, sequence, or method of application. 5. PACKAGING 5.1 Preservation. Preservation shall be level A or Commercial (see 6.2). 30 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-
