1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 12270:2013Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirementsand test methodsBS EN 12270:2013 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 12270:2013. Itsupersedes BS EN 12270:1998 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its
2、preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other RecreationalEquipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovi
3、sions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards Institution 2013. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2013ISBN 978 0 580 75635 1ICS 97.220.40Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published
4、under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 November 2013.Amendments issued since publicationDate Text affectedBS EN 12270:2013EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 12270 November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 12270:1998English Version Mountaineering equ
5、ipment - Chocks - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Coinceurs - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Klemmkeile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 28 September 2013. CEN m
6、embers are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on applic
7、ation to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Mana
8、gement Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvi
9、a, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marni
10、x 17, B-1000 Brussels 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12270:2013 EBS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and definitions .4 4 Requirements .5 4.1
11、 Design .5 4.2 Strength 5 5 Test methods 5 5.1 Test samples 5 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test .5 5.2.1 Layout .5 5.2.2 Adjustment 12 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions 12 5.4 Procedure 13 5.4.1 Design 13 5.4.2 Strength . 13 6 Marking 13 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer 14 Annex A (i
12、nformative) Protection provided by chocks 15 Annex B (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 16 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 17 Bibliography . 18 BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 3 Forewo
13、rd This document (EN 12270:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an ide
14、ntical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held respon
15、sible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 12270:1998. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with
16、EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 12270:1998, the following significant changes have been made: a) editorial revision; b) new Annex A “Protection provided by chocks” added; c) updated Annex B. According t
17、o the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greec
18、e, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements a
19、nd test methods for chocks for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated refer
20、ences, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 564, Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety requirements and test methods EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods EN 892, Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic
21、mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods EN 1891, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height - Low stretch kernmantel ropes EN ISO 139, Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139) ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipm
22、ent - Registered symbols 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 chock non-adjustable body, which is intended to be wedged in cracks or cavities in the rock and which, due to its shape and orientation in the rock, can withstand a load
23、 Note 1 to entry: See Annex A for protection provided by chocks. 3.2 means of attachment part of a chock which allows the attachment of a connector Note 1 to entry: Applies to connectors in accordance with EN 12275. 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause the chock or its means of attachment to b
24、reak or to be pulled through the test apparatus Note 1 to entry: The force is determined in the strength test according to 5.4.2. BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 5 4 Requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Chocks may be fitted with a means of attachment by the manufacturer. 4.1.2 If a chock is not fitted wi
25、th a means of attachment, the chock shall be designed such that a means of attachment consisting of tape (according to EN 565) or accessory cord (according to EN 564) or rope (according to EN 892 or EN 1891) can be affixed. 4.1.3 If there is a textile means of attachment, whose strength is dependent
26、 on the integrity of the stitching, then the stitching shall contrast with the background in colour or surface appearance. 4.1.4 Any means of attachment shall be large enough to accommodate a pin with a diameter of (15 0,1) mm. 4.1.5 All edges of the chock and/or the means of attachment that can com
27、e into contact with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength When tested according to 5.4.2, the holding force shall be at least the one(s) marked on the chock (see Clause 6 b) and be not less than 2,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples For the test, as many test samp
28、les shall be provided as there are different chock orientations indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions for use. If a chock model is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Test apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The apparatus consists of two round steel suppo
29、rting jaws with a radius R = (65 2) mm for the chock and by means of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 0,1) mm for the means of attachment, see Figure 2 and Figure 6. An apparatus consisting of two round steel supporting jaws with a radius R = (25 1) mm shall be used for testing chocks where bmax
30、of the tested position S 12 kN If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall. If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand the highest conceivable forces generated in a fall, provided a dynamic belay is in use and effective. 12 S 7 kN N
31、ot recommended for use on its own, since it will not withstand the highest conceivable force. It may be used as one component of a belay system where the force of a fall is shared between the components. If used correctly, sufficiently strong to withstand typical forces generated in a fall, provided
32、 a dynamic belay is in use and effective. It cannot be relied upon to withstand the highest forces that could be generated in a fall. S 7 kN Only to be used as part of a multicomponent belay system where the force of a fall will be shared between several components. Even if used correctly, and with
33、a dynamic belay in use, it cannot be relied upon to withstand typical forces generated in a fall. Wherever possible, it should be backed up with one or more devices of similar strength, in such a way as to share the load. General The behaviour of a chock in rock, when loaded dynamically, is not full
34、y predictable. At least two independent anchor points should always be used, each capable of providing protection as above. BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 16 Annex B (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table B.1 List of standards on mountaineering equipment No Document Title 1 EN
35、564 Mountaineering equipment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 2 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 3 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 4 EN 567 Mountaineering equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements
36、 and test methods 5 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods 6 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods 7 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methods 8 EN 893 Mountaineeri
37、ng equipment Crampons Safety requirements and test methods 9 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirements and test methods 10 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety requirements and test methods 11 EN 12270 M
38、ountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 12 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements and test methods 13 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety
39、requirements and test methods 15 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment Helmets for mountaineers Safety requirements and test methods 17 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods 18 EN
40、 151511 Mountaineering equipment Braking devices Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods 19 EN 151512 Mountaineering equipment Braking devices Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 1
41、7 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to
42、Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC. Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clauses of this standard given in Table ZA
43、.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations. Table ZA.1 Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC Clause(s)/sub-clause(s) of this
44、EN Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC Qualifying remarks/Notes 4.1.5 1.2.1.2 Satisfactory surface condition of all PPE parts in contact with the user 4.2 1.3.2 Lightness and design strength Clause 6, Clause 7 1.4 Information supplied by the manufacturer Clause 7j), Clause 7k), Clau
45、se 7n) 2.4 PPE subject to ageing Clause 7c) 2.8 PPE for use in very dangerous situation Clause 6, Clause 7f) 2.12 PPE bearing one or more identification or recognition marks directly or indirectly relating to health and safety 4.2 3.1.2.2 Protection against falls from heights Chocks according to thi
46、s standard are only one part of the safety chain and should be used in conjunction with other compatible equipment. WARNING Other requirements and other EU Directives may be applicable to the product(s) falling within the scope of this standard. BS EN 12270:2013EN 12270:2013 (E) 18 Bibliography 1 Re
47、gulation 765/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 9 July 2008 setting out the requirements for accreditation and market surveillance relating to the marketing of products and repealing Regulation (EEC) No 339/93 This page deliberately left blankBSI is the national body responsible f
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