1、8 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-N-29387B (MC) 20 September 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION NECKTIE, WOMENS - GENERAL OFFICER This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the
2、 Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for the scarlet necktie made from tropical polyester/wool material of one size and type only. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this speci
3、fication. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all Beneficial comments
4、 (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at th
5、e end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8445 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29387C m 9999906 2054436 283 m MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) speci
6、fied requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein.
7、Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50196 - A-A-50199 - DDD-L-20 - Thread, Silk Thre
8、ad, Polyester Core, Cotton, or Polyester Covered Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-21115 - Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool MIL-F-21840 - Fastener Tapes, Hook and Loop, Synthetic MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusibles STANDARDS FEDERAJL FED-STD-191 - Te
9、xtile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publi
10、cations. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of 2 Provided by
11、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29387C W 9199906 2054437 LLT MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for
12、 Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this docum
13、ent takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this
14、 specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3, Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the necktie shall be cloth
15、, 10 ounce, tropical, polyester/wool, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-21115 in scarlet, shade 2502. 3.3.2 Fusible interlininq. The fusible interlining for the necktie shall be cloth, non-woven, fusible, conforming to type V, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.3 Fastener tape. The nylon fa
16、stener tape for securing the neckband shall be 3/4 inch wide hook and loop tape conforming to type I, class 1 of MIL-F-21840. The color of the hook and loop tape shall match the shade of the basic fabric with colorfastness requirements as specified in MIL-F-21840. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo r
17、eproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-29387C 999990b 2054438 056 MIL-DTL-2 93 8 7C (MC) 3.3.4 Thread. 3.3.4.1. Silk thread. The silk thread for machine sewing shall conform to type I, ticket No. A of A-A-50196 for all bartacks and all outside seaming and stitching
18、. 3.3.4.2. Cotton/polyester. The cotton-covered polyester or polyester thread shall be ticket No. 70, 2-ply conforming to A-A-50199 for all inside seaming, label, seam or overedge stitching. 3.3.4.3. Color. The color of the thread for the necktie shall conform to scarlet, shade W, Cable No. 66040 (s
19、ee DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.4.4. Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness
20、 to wet (dry) cleaning and light. 3.3-5 Label. Each necktie shall have an identification label conforming to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-SO. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The label shall not be more than 5/8 inch wide by 2-1/2 inches long. The content and format shal
21、l be as follows: Nomenclature: (Necktie, Womens) Contract number: DSA-100-77-7147 (Example) Name of contractor: 3.4. Desiqn. The necktie shall be a ready-made type, with neckband adjustable by hook and loop tape fastener closure, as shown in Figure 1. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnish
22、ed to the contractor by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns provide a 1/4 inch allowan
23、ce for joining. A the necktie. 1/8 inch seam is used to attached the label to the underside of 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-DTL-27387C 7979706 2054437 T92 m 3 . Top ply interlining 1 MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) 3.5.1 List of pattern
24、 parts. The necktie shall be cut from the specified materials in accordance with the pattern parts as follows: PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS I IMaterial: Cloth, polyester/wool TOP PlY Under ply 1 1 IMaterial: Cloth, nonwoven fusible 3.6. Construction. The neckties shall be manufactured in
25、accordance with the operations and stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations as listed in Table I, but all operations shall be used to manufacture the neckties. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinqs. The stitch,
26、seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more stitch or seam types are specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Where.stitching type 401 is used, the looper (under thread) shall be on the inside of the necktie. The number of s
27、titches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. 3.6.1.1. Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of seams and stitching produced with 301 type stitch when not caught in other seams or stitching shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all
28、stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less then 1/2 inch. When stitch type 401 is used, ends of seams and stitching shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired using stitch type 301. 3.6.2 Fusinq. The fusing interlining shal
29、l be fused to the basic material in accordance with the following conditions: a. Temperature between pressing surfaces of 300F minimum and 320F maximum at the fuseline (not the temperature at the clock). b. Pressure between pressing surfaces of 6 pounds per square inch (lbf/in2) minimum and 7 lbf/in
30、2 maximum. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-DTL-29387C = 9999506 2054440 704 MIL-DTL-S9387C (MC) c. Pressing time of 12 seconds minimum and 14 seconds maximum. d. Heat-dry. TABLE I. Manufacturing requirements. - NO 1 - 2 3 OPER
31、ATION luttinq. a. Cut the necktie in strict accordance with the pattern furnished by the Government. b. Cut neckties from one piece of basic material in the direction of warp as indicated by directional lines on pattern. c. Cut fusible interlining for neckties in accordance with the pattern. Replace
32、ment of damacred parts. a. Replace at time of cutting, all parts containing damages such as holes or serious weakening defects such as smashes, multiple floats and slubs likely to develop into holes. b. Replace any part damaged during the manufacturing process by needle chews which may be expected t
33、o develop into a hole, scissors or knife cuts, tears, holes, mends or burns. Make necktie. Finished appearance. The necktie shall finish smooth and flat, without twists, gathers, puckers, pleats, or raw edges, and the corners and seamed edges shall be uniformly worked out. a. The neckties shall be m
34、ade from two plies of basic material and one ply of fusible interlining. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE iTCH/IN NDL BOB/ LPR I 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-29387C I 99617906 20541441 b40 NO 3 - MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) TABLE I. Man
35、ufacturinq requirements - Continued. OPERATION lake necktie. (cont d) ). Position the fusible interlining naterial on the underside of the top ly of basic material. Fuse the fusible interlining to the basic naterial of the necktie as specified .n 3.6.2. :. The identification Label shall be ;em to th
36、e face of the under ply of :he basic material and shall be :entered on the finished necktie (see iigure 1). Stitch on all four sides. 1. Fold the top ply of the basic naterial lengthwise with the interlining face to face and notches natching. Stitch the entire length f each tuck from top notch to bo
37、ttom iotch 1/32 to 1/16 inch from the olded edges. 5. Mark and trim top ply of necktie in accordance with the shape of the ?attern furnished. . Position the under ply on the top ?ly with edges even and notches uatching. Seam the two plies together 1/4 inch from raw edges, Leaving an opening at one e
38、nd for turning. 2. Turn the necktie right side out, riorking out the seamed edges and ?oints. n. Press the necktie smooth and flat tiith a heated pressing iron or pressing machine. i. Position hook portion of the nylon fastener tape to the right neckband and the loop pile portion of the nylon fasten
39、er tape to the left neckband, with edge of tape even with finished edges of neckband, and stitch to the neckband 1/16 to 1/8 inch from all edges. The hook and loop pile portion shall each measure 3-1/2 inches long by 3/4 inch wide 5 1/16 inch. STCH TYPE 301 301 301 301 or 401 SEAM/ STCH TYPE LSBj-1
40、OSf -1 SSa-1 SSa-1 sTCH/IN 10-14 10-14 10-14 10-14 NDL 70 A (silk) A (sil or (cotto1 70 BOB/ LPR 70 A (silk) A or cotton 70 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-VIL-DTL-29387C m 7Ob 2054442 587 m MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) TABLE I. Manufacturin
41、a requirements - Continued. NO 4 - OPERATION Clean and Dress necktie. a. Trim thread ends, loose threads, spots, stains and shade tickets. b. Finish press the necktie with heated pressing iron or pressing machine. STCH TYPE SEAM/ STCH TYPE STCH/IN 1 NDL BOB/ LPR 3.7. Finished measurements. The finis
42、hed measurements of the necktie shall be as shown in Figure 1. 3.8. Workmanship. The finished necktie shall conform to the quality and grade of product established by this specification. 3.9. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recoveied, or environmentally prefer
43、able materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 4 - VERIFICATION 4.1. Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified he
44、rein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.3). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.4). 4.2. Inspection conditions. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with the provisions set forth in ANSI/ASQC 21.4. c 4.3. First article inspection. When
45、first article is required, inspection shall be made of a completely fabricated necktie for all provisions of this specification. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-27387C I 799990b 2054443 413 rn MIL-DTL-29387C (MC) 4.4. Confo
46、rmance inspection. 4.4.1 Component and material testinq. Components and materials shall be inspected and tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase d
47、ocuments. The method of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable, shall be followed. 4.4.1.1. Samplinq for testinq. Government furnished materials shall not be sampled or tested unless specifically requested by the Government. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. The end item shall be exa
48、mined for defects in accordance with 4.4.2.1 and 4.4.2.2. The sample unit for these examinations shall be one necktie. 4.4.2.1. Classification of defects. All defects shall be classified as indicated below: Classification Examine C 1 eannes s Components and assembly Cutting Label Defects a. Spot or
49、stain clearly noticeable. - on front part of necktie. - on underside of necktie. b. Thread ends not trimmed or loose thread ends not removed (to be scored only when the condition exists on major portion of necktie). a. Any component parts or required operation omitted (unless otherwise classified herein). a. Not cut in accordance with the warp directional lines on the p
