1、 The following commercial specification is an original Parachute Industry Association specification. _ CLOTH, SATEEN, COTTON, DYED The Parachute Industry Association makes this document available for use by Industry and Government organizations that wish to apply this specification to their products
2、. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers dyed cotton sateen cloth. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification nor is it
3、 recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of the documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are list
4、ed. 2.2 Government publications. 2.2.1 Government publications. The following Government publications form a part of this document (see 2.3). COMMERCIAL SPECIFICATION A-A-52094 - Thread, Cotton FEDERAL STANDARDS FED-STD-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION (FTC) 16 CFR 303 -
5、 Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Copies are available online at: www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001. Electronic copies may be also obtained from http:/www.access.gpo.gov/.) PIA-C-2001A
6、07 March 2011 Superseding PIA-C-2001 20 July 2007 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT: All Rights Reserved. No Part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission from Parachute Industry Association. Additional copies may be purchased on-line from the PIA Store at: . PIA-C-2001A Page 2 of
7、 9 2.2 Non-government publications. The following documents form a part of this document (see 2.4). AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE COLORISTS AND CHEMISTS (AATCC) AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking; Crockmeter Method AATCC 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from W
8、et-Processed Textiles AATCC 96 - Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool AATCC 107 - Colorfastness to Water AATCC Evaluation Procedures: - 1 Gray Scale for Color Change - 2 Gray Scale for Staining - 8 AATCC 9 - Step Chromatic Transference Scale - 9 Visua
9、l Assessment of Color Difference Textiles. (Application for copies should be addressed to the AATCC National Headquarters, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215. Electronic copies may be obtained from www.aatcc.org .) ASTM INTERNATIONAL (ASTM) ASTM D 1683 - Standard Test Method for F
10、ailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics ASTM D 1776 - Standard Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles ASTM D 3775 - Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick) Count of Woven Fabrics ASTM D 3776 - Standard Test Method for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric ASTM D 5034 - S
11、tandard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (Application for copies should be addressed to the ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohoken, PA 19428-2959. Electronic copies may be obtained from www.astm.org .) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY (
12、ASQ) ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies are available online at: www.asq.org or American Society For Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53203. 2.3 Revision levels of subsidiary documents. The documents listed in Section 2 shall be def
13、ined as subsidiary documents, other Government publications and non-government publications. Unless otherwise specified by the procuring activity, the revision level of subsidiary PIA-C-2001A Page 3 of 9 documents shall be the latest revision level as listed in the Acquisition Streamlining and Stand
14、ardization Information (ASSIST) database located at: https:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/. 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersed
15、es applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Material. The yarn shall be made from cotton that has been carded, drawn, and spun into single yarns. 3.2 Color. The color of the finished cloth shall be as specified by the procuring activity and s
16、hall match the standard (see 6.3). 3.2.1 Dyeing. The use of dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyestuffs shall be chosen and applied so that the dyed cloth shall show not more than a slight trace of labile sulfur when tested as sp
17、ecified in 4.2.5. 3.2.2 Visual shade matching. The color of the dyed fabric shall match the standard when viewed using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Option A, with sources simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminate with color temperature of 7500 200K, with illumination of 100 20 foot candles
18、and shall be a good match to the standard under incandescent lamplight at 2856 200K. Note: When evaluating the shade of the cloth, 4 layers shall be used. 3.2.3 Colorfastness. The dyed fabric shall show fastness to laundering and crocking as follows: Notes: 1/Rating using AATCC Evaluation Procedure
19、1, Gray Scale for Color Change 2/Rating using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8 and AATCC 9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale. 3.3 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in TABLE I, when tested as specified in 4.2.4. TABLE I Physical requirements. Characteri
20、stic Rating, minimum Laundering 1/3-4 Crocking 2/3-4 Weight per sq. yd. in ounces (maximum) Yarns per inch (minimum) Breaking strength in pounds (minimum) 9.0 Warp Filling Warp Filling 85 48 115 100 PIA-C-2001A Page 4 of 9 3.4 Weave. The weave shall be 5 harness sateen. The filling effect side of th
21、e cloth shall be of the face side and the weave shall be as shown on FIGURE 1 when viewed from the face side. 3.5 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified in the procurement document (see 6.1). 3.6 Finish. The cloth shall be singed, desized and mercerized when tested as specified in 4.2.4
22、. 3.7 Nonfibrous material. The starch and protein content, including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material of the finished cloth, shall not exceed 3.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.2.4. 3.8 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.5 or more
23、than 9.0 when tested as specified in 4.2.4. 3.9 Dimensional stability. The cloth shall be preshrunk and shall not shrink or elongate more than 2.0 percent in the direction of either the warp or the filling when tested as specified in 4.2.4. 3.10 Seam efficiency. The cloth shall have seam efficiency
24、of not less than 80 percent when tested as specified in 4.2.4. 3.11 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.1), the cloth shall be in one continuous piece of not less than 40 yards and shall be put up in rolls as specified in 5.1. 3.12 Fiber identification. Each piece shall be labeled o
25、r ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 3.12.1 Identification of product. Each roll of cloth shall be marked for identification in accordance with good commercial practice. In addition, each piece of cloth in each
26、 roll shall be clearly and legibly marked with the finishers roll number or code, and each roll shall have attached a durable tag on which the finishers roll number or code is listed. The date of manufacture (see 3.14) of the cloth shall be included on the tag attached to each roll. 3.13 Workmanship
27、. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this document. The demerit points per 100 square yards, when calculated as specified in Section 4, shall not exceed the applicable established maximum point value. 3.14 Date of Manufacture. The date of manufacture is defined
28、 as the date (month and year) of the last manufacturing process that affects the physical characteristics of the cloth. 4. VERIFICATION 4.1 Classification for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection
29、 requirements as specified PIA-C-2001A Page 5 of 9 herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract or purchase order, the contractor may use their own or any other facilities suitable for the performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the procuring activ
30、ity. The procuring activity reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform to prescribed requirements. 4.1.1 Certificate of Compliance. Where Certificates of Compliance are submit
31、ted, the procuring activity reserves the right to inspect such items to determine the validity of the certification. 4.1.2 Quality conformance inspection. Unless otherwise specified, sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4. 4.1.3 Component and material inspection.
32、 In accordance with 4.1, components and materials shall be inspected in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification or applicable purchase document. 4.2. End item examinati
33、on. 4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on the face side only. When total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All
34、 defects as defined in section 1 of FED-STD-4 that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (approximately 3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.2.2., except that only those slubs and knots that exceed the limits shown in figure 1 of FED- STD-4 shall be score
35、d. No linear yard shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be 20 pieces or rolls selected from 20 containers. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards of the total yardage examined exceeds 30 points. The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 squa
36、re yards of two rolls exceeds 45 points. If one roll exceeds 45 points per 100 square yards, a second sample of 20 rolls shall be examined only for roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one roll in the second sample exceed 45 points per 100 square yards. Point computation for lo
37、t quality and individual piece or roll quality shall be as follows: Total points scored in sample x 3600 = Points per 100 square yards Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected 4.2.2. Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: - For defects 3 inches or less in any
38、dimension - one point - For defects exceeding 3 inches but not exceeding 6 inches in any dimension - two points - For defects exceeding 6 inches but not exceeding 9 inches in any dimension. - three points. The following defects, when present, shall be scored four points for each yard in which they o
39、ccur: PIA-C-2001A Page 6 of 9 - Baggy, ridgy, or wavy cloth - Defects exceeding 9 inches in any dimension - Poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky, or cloudy - Overall uncleanness - Excessive nappiness - Objectionable odor 1/ . Note: 1/ Normal residual odor of chemicals commonly used to apply treatm
40、ent of dyestuff for finish or color shall not be regarded as objectionable. 4.2.3 Length examination. 4.2.3.1 Individual rolls. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any roll found to be less than the minimum specified or more than 2 yards less th
41、an the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length. 4.2.3.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in t
42、he sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the tickets. 4.2.4 End item testing. The cloth shall be tested for the characteristics listed in TABLE II. The methods for testing specified in TABLE II shall be followed. The physical and chemical values specified in Section 3 apply to the a
43、verage of the determinations made on a sample unit for test purposes as specified in the applicable test methods. The sample unit shall be 5 continuous yards of full width finished cloth. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more sample units fail to meet any test requirement specified. All test
44、reports shall contain the individual values utilized in expressing the final results. Unless otherwise specified, testing shall be performed under standard conditions in accordance with ASTM D 1776. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following: (THIS SPACE LEFT INTENTIONALLY BLANK) Lot
45、size (yards) Sample size (sample units) 800 or less 2 801 up to and including 22,000 3 22,001 and over 5 PIA-C-2001A Page 7 of 9 TABLE II End item tests. Characteristics Requirement paragraph Test methods Yarn ply 3.1 Visual 1/Presence of labile sulfur 4.2.5 4.2.5 2/Colorfastness to: Laundering (aft
46、er 3 cycles) 3.2.3 AATCC 61 1A Crocking 3.2.3 AATCC 8 4/Weight 3.3 ASTM D 3776 Opt C Yarns per inch 3.3 ASTM D 3775 Breaking strength 3.3 ASTM D 5034 Weave 3.4 Visual 1/Identification of mercerization 3.6 Microscopic examination for swelling of cotton fiber 1/Nonfibrous material 3.7 AATCC 20ApH 3.8
47、AATCC 81 Dimensional stability 3.9 AATCC 96 Seam efficiency 3.10 ASTM D 16833/Notes: 1/One determination shall be made from each sample unit and the results reported as “pass” or “fail”. 2/A Certificate of Compliance shall be submitted and will be acceptable for the stated requirement. 3/ The thread
48、 shall conform to Type I of A-A-52094, Ticket No. 24, 4 Ply. The needle size shall be 0.049 0.001 inch. 4/ On the color transfer cloth evaluation, only the stain on the cotton and nylon fibers of the color transfer cloth shall be evaluated. 4.2.5 Presence of labile sulfur. In the determination of la
49、bile sulfur in textiles with lead acetate, two 1.50 0.01 gram samples from each material submitted for evaluation shall be tested. Each of the two samples shall be cut into very small pieces and placed into separate test tubes. The samples shall be submersed in a stannous chloride solution that contains 100 grams stannous chloride crystals ACS in 100 milliliters of hydrochloric acid ACS (35 percent concentration) and 50 milliliters if distilled water. A filter paper wet out
