1、Designation: D1059 17Standard Test Method forYarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1059; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number
2、 in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarnnumber of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-madefiber yarns taken from packa
3、ges; or from any textile fabrics inwhich the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurablelengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken fromnapped or cut pile fabrics. Because this test method is based onshort-length specimens, the results should only be consideredas approximations o
4、f yarn number.NOTE 1For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarnnumber, refer to Test Method D1907.NOTE 2The following additional methods for the determination ofyarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers:Specification D541, D578, and D681.1.2 This test method i
5、s applicable to yarns which stretch lessthan 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may beadapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tensionlower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use oftension higher
6、than that specified in the method to pull thecrimp out of textured yarns.1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded asstandard; the values in inch-pound units are reported asinformation only.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with it
7、s use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standar
8、d-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD541 Specifi
9、cation for Single Jute Yarn (Withdrawn 1996)2D578 Specification for Glass Fiber StrandsD629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of TextilesD681 Specification for Jute Rove and Plied Yarn for Elec-trical and Packing Purposes (Withdrawn 2000)2D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-CountingD
10、1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-ber) by the Skein MethodD2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsThe following terms are relevant to thisstandard: cooton count, cut, indirect yarn numbering syst
11、em,lea, metric count, run, tex, typp, worsted count, yarn number,yarn numbering system.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 Specimens of prescribed length, usually 1 m (1.1 yd) orless, are cut from a conditioned sa
12、mple, which is underprescribed tension, and weighed. The yarn number is calcu-lated from the mass and the measured length of the yarn.5. Significance and Use5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of theapproximate yarn number of short-length specimens takenfrom packages or fabrics.5.2
13、 Because any error present in the reported length of thespecimen is multiplied many times when calculating thetheoretical yarn number using Eq 2 or Eq 3, it is extremelyimportant that the length be measured as precisely as practi-cable.5.3 For the analysis of fabrics, this test method is adequatefor
14、 estimating the approximate yarn number of the yarn used to1These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns andFibers.Current edition approved July 15, 2017. Published August 2017. Originallyapproved in
15、1952. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D1059 01 which waswithdrawn July 2010 and reinstated in July 2017. DOI: 10.1520/D1071-17.2The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshoho
16、cken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organi
17、zation Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1weave or knit the fabric, but the results obtained by this testmethod may not agree with the nominal yarn number of theyarns actually used to make the fabric because of the changesin the yarn number produced by the weaving or knittingoperations, th
18、e finishing treatments, and the dissecting opera-tions. This test method is suitable for the evaluation of yarns asthey occur in the finished fabric, when that information isneeded.5.4 The yarn number obtained from the lengths taken frompackages should not be expected to agree exactly with thevalues
19、 obtained by the use of the more precise methods ofdetermining the yarn number included in Test Method D1907.If a sufficient number of consecutive specimens were tested,however, a close agreement with Option 1 of Test MethodD1907 can be expected.5.5 This test method is designed to measure the yarnnu
20、mber of the single yarns present as a component of a pliedyarn and the yarn number of the original single yarns used toproduce a high twist yarn for a crepe fabric.5.6 This test method is not recommended for acceptancetesting because of the short lengths used. In some cases, thepurchaser and the sup
21、plier may have to test a commercialshipment of one or more specific materials by the best availablemethod, even though the method has not been recommendedfor acceptance testing of commercial shipments.5.6.1 In such a case, if there is disagreement arising fromthe differences in values reported by th
22、e purchaser and supplierwhen using this method for acceptance testing, the statisticalbias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and thelaboratory of the supplier should be determined with eachcomparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawnfrom one sample of material of the typ
23、e being evaluated.6. Apparatus6.1 Twist Tester, equipped with a tension device and meansof measuring the change in length of the specimen due tountwisting, as specified in Test Method D1423.6.2 Length Measuring Device, A tape or scale measuring atleast 1.00 m (1.1. yd) in length, graduated in millim
24、etres, andwith two clamps, one adjustable, to permit measuring variouslengths of yarn up to and including 1 m (1.1. yd). The scaleshould be accurate to 1 part in 1000. Means should be providedfor applying a specified tension to the specimen and for cuttingit without damaging the scale.6.3 Razor-Edge
25、 Craft Knife, or Sharp Pointed Scissor orEquivalent.6.4 Tensioning Weights, accurate to 1 part in 100.6.5 Balance, capable of weighing to within 0.1 % of thespecimen mass.6.6 Dissecting Needle, Scribe, or Stylus, (hereafter needle).6.7 Auxiliary Equipment for Raveling Tricot Fabric:6.7.1 Metal Clamp
26、s, four to six (1 to 5 g depending on themass per unit area of the tricot fabric).6.7.2 Sharp Pointed Scissors.6.7.3 Tweezers.6.8 Masking Tape.6.9 Test (or Specimen) Boardof a stiff material, such ascardboard, covered with a short pile fabric (for example,velvet, velveteen, or a plush or napped surf
27、ace).7. Sampling7.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of shipping containers directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to usePractice D2258.7.2 Laboratory SampleAs laboratory
28、 sample for accep-tance testing, proceed as follows:7.2.1 For packages such as cones, spools, or bobbins, take atotal number of packages as directed in Section 7 of TestMethod D1907.7.2.2 For beams, remove 1.5 m (1.5 yd) of yarn from allends across the beam. Handle carefully to avoid tangling.secure
29、 the ends of the sample yarns by sandwiching them at theends with strips of masking tape.7.2.3 For fabrics, take a swatch of full-width fabric at last1.5 m (1.5. yd).7.3 Test SpecimensFrom each unit of the laboratorysample, take specimens at the time of testing as follows:7.3.1 For packages such as
30、cones, spools, or bobbins, takeone specimen per package.7.3.2 For beams, take ten ends at random from each half ofthe beam sheet.7.3.3 For woven fabrics, take ten separate specimens fromthe warp and ten separate specimens from the filling. Take thefilling specimens at random. Discard specimens that
31、appear tobe damaged.7.3.4 For weft knit fabrics, take ten specimens at randomunless the fabric is known to be a multifeed fabric or doubleknit fabric. For multifeed fabric, take ten specimens from tensuccessive courses in one part of the laboratory sample. Fordouble knit fabric, take five specimens
32、from each knitting typeof yarn (short and long feed length courses).7.3.5 For warp knit fabrics, cut a walewise strip from whichspecimens can be raveled. Cut the strip at least 0.2 m (8 in.)longer than the specimen length and wide enough to containmore than the required number of specimens. Test fiv
33、e speci-mens from each bar.NOTE 3When testing for other than acceptance testing, the specimensmay have to be taken in a different manner than directed above. Aminimum of ten specimens in each test result is recommended.8. Conditioning8.1 Bring the laboratory samples or specimens to moistureequilibri
34、um for testing in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles as directed in Practice D1776, except that precondi-tioning is not necessary.9. Preparation of Apparatus9.1 Yarn from PackagesNormally, specimens having alength of 1 m (1.1. yd) can be obtained from pirns, cones,spools, bobbins, and beams
35、. Remove the outer layers from thepackages and proceed as described in 10.2.D1059 1729.2 Yarn from Woven FabricsCut the laboratory samplesparallel to the warp (or filling) yarns to be tested. Ravel anddiscard the warp (or filling) yarns until full length yarns can beremoved from the fabric. Trim the
36、 fringe.NOTE 4If fabric is tightly woven, it may be necessary to cut the fringefrequently to allow the yarns to be raveled from the fabric withoutstretching.9.3 Yarns from Weft KnitsCut the fabric along a courseline. Clean the raveling edge to obtain a free pulling yarn atleast 0.2 m (8 in.) longer
37、than the specimen length required.9.4 Yarn from Warp KnitsRavel yarn from warp knitfabrics as directed below.9.4.1 Clamp one side of the fabric, face up, to an edge of thepile board. Stretch the fabric across the board to put a slighttension on the loops and clamp it to the opposite edge of theboard
38、. Clamps should be near the raveling end of the fabric(closed wale loop).9.4.2 Clean the wale loops of cut ends by insertng needlebelow yarns which enter the loops from the space between, andat the base of, the loops (or catch these yarns with tweezers)and pull gently to free sufficient yarns to sup
39、ply the requirednumber of yarns for testing plus some spares. See Note 5.Maintain as compact a yarn bundle as possible, avoidingsplaying yarns (separated filaments due to splitting yarn bundlewith needle or tweezers and pulling on only some of thefilament in the bundle). Continue working loops out f
40、rom theback of succeeding loops, using needle or tweezers on the yarnin the spaces between loops, until sufficient yarn has beenraveled to hold onto when stretched slightly. The yarns maynow be sandwiched in tape at the end to keep them togetherand for ease of handling. This initial starting of the
41、ravelingprocess is most easily accomplished using a stereomicroscope,but a magnifying glass may be sufficient.NOTE 5Warp knits are usually knit from a minimum of two sets ofyarn beams, each of which requires a bar to guide threads during knitting.Yarns guided by one of the bars will either knit off
42、one needle or twoadjacent needles. Yarns guided by the other bar(s) will usually knit off ofnonadjacent needles and may indeed “skip” over more than one needlebetween stitches.Afabric could contain one bar with each yarn knitting offa needle (chain stitch), one bar using adjacent needles, and a thir
43、d barusing nonadjacent needles. The technical face side of the fabric shows thewales, and except for double warp knits, the back side usually showsdiagonal lines, called laps, which are due to yarn movement fromstitch-to-stitch crossing one or more wale lines.9.4.3 Continue raveling by the ladder te
44、chnique of gentlypulling on the yarns being removed, with slightly more stressand angled pull on those at the edges. Gentle pressure on yarnsin spaces at the sides with a needle may be necessary from timeto time. Try to keep the yarns raveling at the same rate. Whenyarns resist raveling, check for b
45、roken or looped filamentswrapped about yarn loops. These have to be worked loose(under microscope) or broken, in which case, the yarn with thebroken filaments cant be used for testing. Yarns can normallytake a fair amount of hand tension during the raveling processwithout being damaged. When too muc
46、h tension has beenapplied, the yarn will lose memory of knit crimp and notrecrimp to loop form. (With greige yarns, however, moistureand heat from handling by some people may cause loss of theknit-crimp memory without yarn damage.) This phase can bedone with fabric still clamped to board. Or, it can
47、 be done withfabric held on each side of the raveling area with heel of thumband three fingers, leaving thumbs and forefingers to pull onyarns and work needle as needed. Lighted low power magni-fication may be helpful. Very tightly knit fabrics will ravelmore slowly and may require continued use of
48、microscope.9.4.4 It is a more common practice to ravel sufficient yarn toobtain a standard length from the yarns guided by the barwhich “floats” over at least one needle during knitting (some-times called “long bar” and usually, but not always, the topbar). Shorter, appropriate lengths will necessar
49、ily be takenfrom the other bar(s).9.5 Singles from Plied YarnWhen required, determine thelength of singles in the ply as directed below.9.5.1 Adjust the twist tester to 250 6 0.25 mm (9.85 6 0.01in.) between clamps. Record this as the twisted length, T. Takea length of about 50 mm (2 in.) and fasten the end of the yarnin the tensioning device near the left hand clamp of the twisttester. Draw the yarn through the right-hand clamp under therequired tension until the selected length is indicated. Close theright hand clamp and then the left hand clamp. Untwist th
