1、Designation: D123 171Standard Terminology Relating toTextiles1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D123; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates th
2、e year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.1NOTEThis terminology was updated editorially in August 2018.1. Scope1.1 This standard is the c
3、ompilation of all terminologydeveloped by Committee D13 on Textiles.1.1.1 This terminology, consists mostly of definitions,which are specific to the textile industry. Meanings of the sameterms used outside the textile industry can be found in othercompilations or in dictionaries of general usage.1.1
4、.2 The specific D13 subcommittee (SC) which has juris-dictional responsibility for every item is the first attributionnoted after the definition. The SC terminology standard inwhich all the terms and definitions appear is listed by numberafter the jurisdiction for the term. The wording of an entryca
5、nnot be changed without the approval of the subcommitteewhich has jurisdiction. Users of this compilation should alsoreview the SC terminology standard listed for more details orinterpretations of these terms and their use by the SC havingjurisdiction.1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionar
6、y, Terminol-ogy D123 is also a tool for managing the committeesterminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventingredundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating thesame concept are defined in different words. Redundancies canalso occur when one definition is used for two or more
7、 terms.1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsi-bility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of man-aging terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer ofstandards, specifically the task group leader and subcommitteechairman.1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific
8、subcommitteecompilations, this standard is comprised of the followingsections that are listed in the order in which they appear.1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with definitions followedby SC attribution in brackets and SC terminology standard.1.4.2 Annex A1 Terms Relating to the Hand of Fabrics.
9、1.4.3 Annex A2 Industry Accepted Synonyms.1.4.4 Annex A3 Terminology Taken From D13 StandardsThat Have Been Withdrawn.1.4.5 Annex A4 Terminology Relating to Leather.1.4.6 Annex A5 Terminology Revision Procedures.1.4.7 Appendix X1 Other Sources of Textile Terminology.1.5 This international standard w
10、as developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referen
11、ced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D2050 Terminology Relating to Fasteners and ClosuresUsed with TextilesD3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather ProductsD3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning SystemsD3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric DefectsD4391 Te
12、rminology Relating to The Burning Behavior ofTextilesD4845 Terminology Relating to WoolD4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation andRelated Properties of TextilesD4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and FibersD4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethodsD4920 Terminology Relating
13、to Conditioning, Chemical,and Thermal PropertiesD5219 Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for Ap-parel SizingD5253 Terminology Relating to Floor Coverings and TextileUpholstered Furniture1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility
14、of Subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology.Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originallyapproved in 1921. Last previous edition approved in 2015 as D123 15b1. DOI:10.1520/D0123-17E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer S
15、ervice at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed i
16、n accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1D5646 Terminology Relatin
17、g to Seams and Stitches Used inHome SewingD5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor CoveringsD6477 Terminology Relating to Tire Cord, Bead Wire, HoseReinforcing Wire, and FabricsD6798 Terminology Relating to Flax and LinenD6799 Terminology Relating to Inflatable RestraintsD6963 Terminology Relating t
18、o Sewn Products AutomationD7018 Terminology Relating to Glass Fiber and Its ProductsD7022 Terminology Relating to ApparelD7023 Terminology Relating to Home FurnishingsD7139 Terminology for Cotton FibersD7722 Terminology Relating to Industrial Textile Stitchesand Seams3. Terminology3.1 Alphabetical l
19、isting of terms with subcommittee juris-diction and attribution for each term.A-tuft, na single-pass process for aligning hook free fiberson the Fibroliner FL-101. D 13.11 D7139abrasion, nthe wearing away of any part of a material byrubbing against another surface. D13.59 D4850abrasion, nfor inflata
20、ble restraint fabrics, a fuzzy cluster ofbroken filaments damaged by scraping. D13.20 D6799abrasion cycle, none complete movement across the surfaceof a material. D13.59 D4850abrasion cycle, nfor the Martindale Abrasion Tester, 16 rubsrequired to complete a geometric shape, known as aLissajous. D13.
21、59 D4850abrasion cycle, nin abrasion testing, one or more move-ments of the abradant across a material surface, or thematerial surface across the abradant, that permits a return toits starting position. D13.59 D4850abrasion mark, nan area damaged by friction.D13.59 D3990absolute humidity, nthe mass
22、of water vapor present in aunit volume of air. (See humidity and relative humidity)D13.51 D4920absorbent compound, nin textile cleaning, sponge-likeparticles which, when saturated with water or dry solventand detergent and brushed into the textile, remove soil fromthe textile. See powder cleaner. D1
23、3.62 D5253absorbent pad, nfor cleaning textile floor coverings, a damptextile material (fabric, felt, sponge, or mop) used to agitateand wipe the pile and, in the process, absorb soil.D13.62 D5253absorption, na process in which one material (the absorbent)takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate);
24、 as the absorptionof moisture by fibers. (See also adsorption, and moistureequilibrium for testing. Compare desorption andresorption.) D13.51 D4920accelerated aging, nin textile processing and testing, the useof controlled environmental conditions to promote rapidphysical or chemical change in a tex
25、tile material.D13.20 D6799accuracy, nof a test method, the degree of agreementbetween the true value of the property being tested (oraccepted standard value) and the average of many observa-tions made according to the test method, preferably by manyobservers. D13.59 D4850acid content, nof felt, the
26、number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribedconditions. D13.13 D4845acromion, nin anatomy, that part of the shoulder bladelocated at the end of the spine which articulates with thecollar bone. (See also shoulder joint.) D13.55 D5219across back shoulder
27、 width, nthe horizontal distance acrossthe back from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of theother shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. D13.55D5219across front shoulder width, nthe horizontal distance acrossthe front from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of theother shoulder join
28、t, taken with the arms down. D13.55)D5219across shoulder, nin body measurements, the distance fromshoulder joint to shoulder joint across the back.D13.55 D5219acrylic fiberSee acrylic in D7641.adhesion, nthe property denoting the ability of a material toresist delamination or separation into two or
29、more layers.D13.19 D6477adhesion, nin tire fabrics, the force required to separate atextile material from rubber or other elastomer by a definiteprescribed method. D13.19 D6477adhesive treated-tire cord, na tire cord whose adhesion torubber or other elastomer has been improved by the appli-cation of
30、 a dip followed by rapid drying and (normally)additional heat treatment. D13.19 D6477adsorption, na process in which the surface of a solid takeson or absorbs in an extremely thin layer molecules of gases,of dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is incontact. (See also absorption, moistu
31、re equilibrium oftesting. Compare desorption and resorption.)D13.51 D4920afterflame, npersistent flaming of a material after the igni-tion source has been removed. D13.92 D4391after-flame time, nthe length of time for which a materialcontinues to flame after the ignition source has been re-moved. D1
32、3.92 D4391afterglow, nglow in a material after the removal of anexternal ignition source or after the cessation (natural orinduced) of flaming of the material. (See also flame, glow,and smoldering.) D13.92 D4391D123 1712afterglow time, nthe time afterglow continues after thecessation of flaming or a
33、fter removal of the ignition source.D13.92 D4391air-jet spinning machine, na machine that converts sliversof staple fibers into spun yarn using drafting rollers and avortex created by an airflow suction orifice. D13.58D3888air permeability, nthe rate of air flow passing perpendicularthrough a known
34、area under a prescribed air pressuredifferential between the two surfaces of a material.D13.59 D4850air splice, nfor inflatable restraint fabrics, the thickerportion of a yarn resulting from the entanglement of thefilaments at the ends of two multifilament yarns to create acontinuous yarn. D13.20 D6
35、799air-supported roof, na fabric roof-system that is properlysecured and primarily supported and held in place by airpressure. D13.59 D4850air wicking, nin tires, the passage of air longitudinally alongor through yarns in a fabric that has been encased and curedin rubber or other elastomer, that is,
36、 air permeability in theplane of the fabric. D13.19 D6477alkali solubility, nin wool, the percent of clean wool that issoluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D13.13 D4845All-purpose, nan outerwear garment, often with a removableliner, which is su
37、itable for use in many different weatherconditions. D13.61 D7022alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).D13.13 D4845alternate grade reference line, nan optional internal linewhose orientation is used for the “x” axis of a grade rule.D13.66
38、 D6963American grain count, n direct yarn numbering system forexpressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120yards of sliver or roving. D13.58 D4849amount, nin cotton fiber testing with the Length Analyzer,ameasure of the thickness or pneumatic density of the testbeard, proportional t
39、o the number of fibers present at variousdistances from the base of the specimen clamp jaws.D13.11 D7139amount, nin cotton length testing with the Fibrograph,ameasure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,proportional to the number of fibers present at variousdistances from the com
40、b(s). D13.11 D7139anidex fiberSee anidex in D7641.animal fiber, nany natural protein-base fiber. See D7641.ankle, nin anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lowerleg. D13.55 D5219ankle girth, nin body measurements, the circumference ofthe leg over the greatest prominence of the ankle.D13.55 D52
41、19ankle height, nin body measurements, with the subjectstanding barefoot, the distance from the center of theprominent outside ankle bone to the floor. D13.55 D5219ankle height (infant special case), nthe straight distancefrom the prominence of the outer ankle bone to the soles ofthe feet, taken wit
42、h subject lying down flat with legsextended and the foot positioned at 1.57 rad (90) to the leg.D13.55 D5219annotation text, noptional user text that can be specificallydefined and displayed when the pattern piece is plotted.D13.66 D6963apex, nthe greatest protrusion of the breast as seen from thesi
43、de. D13.53 D5219apex angle, nthe angle formed between the incoming andoutgoing yarn at the top (and bottom) of the inter-wrappedyarn area in the static condition. D13.19 D6477applied tension, nin yarn abrasion testing, the static tensionexerted on the weighted end of the yarn by the appliedweight. D
44、13.19 D6477aqueous extract, nin wool testing, the solution obtained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D13.13 D4845aramid fiberSee aramid in D7641.architectural-use, nin the building trade, a descriptive termfor fabrics used in fabric r
45、oof-systems or similar industrialapplications. (See also fabric roof-system.)D13.59 D4850arm length, nin body measurements, with the arm bent at 90degrees and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distancefrom the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over theelbow to the greatest prominenc
46、e on the outside of the wrist.D13.55 D5219armhole, nin garment construction, the area of a garmentthrough which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted.(Compare armscye.) D13.55 D5219armpit, nin anatomy, the hollow under the junction of thearm and the shoulder. D13.55 D5219armscye, nin garme
47、nt construction, the opening in a gar-ment for the attachment of a fitted sleeve. (Comparearmhole.) D13.55 D5219armscye circumference, nin body measurements, with thearm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder jointthrough the front-break point, the armpit, the back-breakpoint and to the starti
48、ng point. D13.55 D5219assembled button, na decorative button consisting of com-binations of similar or dissimilar materials, such as plasticand metal or metal and metal, which have been joinedD123 1713together by such processes as gluing, swedging or metalstamping. D13.54 D2050atmosphere for testing
49、, nair at ambient conditions ofrelative humidity and temperature in which tests or experi-ments are conducted. (See also standard atmosphere fortesting.) D13.51 D4920atmosphere for testing textiles, nfor glass, air maintained ata relative humidity of at least 48 % and no greater than 67 %and at a temperature of at least 20C (68F) and no greaterthan 25C (77F). D13.18 D7018attached cushion, nfor pile y
