1、Designation: D 3887 96 (Reapproved 2004)Standard Specification forTolerances for Knitted Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3887; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.
2、 A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers test methods and toleran
3、cesapplicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield,mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength,moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber com-position.1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of alltypes, such as warp knits, weft knits,
4、 flat bed knits, and soforth.1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as thestandard. The values given in parentheses are for informationonly.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of t
5、his standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of TextilesD 2257 Test Method for E
6、xtractable Matter in TextilesD 2494 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment ofYarn or Man-Made Staple Fiber or TowD 2654 Test Methods for Moisture in Textiles3D 2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight andYield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-mercial CompositionsD 3773
7、 Test Methods for Length of Woven FabricD 3774 Test Method for Width of Woven FabricD 3776 Test Method for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) ofFabricD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofTextile FabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength TesterMethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Texti
8、lesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT), Ball Burst Test2.2 Other Documents:Textile Fiber Products Identification Act4Wool Products Labeling Act of 193952.3 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification gi
9、ve only thepermanent part of theASTM designation. The current editions of each testmethod cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 bursting strength, nthe force or pressure required torupture a fabric by distending it, when applied at right anglesto the plane of the fabric, under spec
10、ified conditions.3.1.2 commercial mass, nbilled weight (mass) as deter-mined by a generally accepted method or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.3.1.2.1 DiscussionThe basis for determining the commer-cial weight (mass) of a shipment of textile product is generallyone of the followin
11、g:(1) Man-Made Fibers:(a) CMRU Basis (commercial moisture regain with unscouredmaterial)the weight (mass) of unscoured, moisture-free textile prod-uct plus the weight (mass) corresponding to its commercial moistureregain.(b) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scouredmaterial)the weight (mas
12、s) of moisture-free textile product afterscouring by definite prescribed methods plus the weight correspondingto its commercial moisture regain.(c) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured material)theweight (mass) of moisture-free textile product after scouring by definiteprescribed methods plu
13、s the weight corresponding to its commercialallowance.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originallyapproved in 1980. Last pre
14、vious edition approve din 1996 as D 3887 96.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.4Act o
15、f Congress, “Textile Fiber Products Identification Act,” 85th Congress,Second Session, approved Sept. 2, 1958.5Act of Congress, “Wool Products LabellingAct of 1939,” 76th Congress, ThirdSession, approved Oct. 14, 1939.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbin
16、s Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5098.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.(d) UN Basis (unadjusted net)the weight (mass) of unscouredtextile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,or both.(2) Wool:(
17、a) CC Basis (commercial composition)the weight (mass) ofwool base as determined by definite prescribed methods plus theweights (masses) of moisture and other components corresponding tothe commercial composition of the commercially designated material(for explanation, see Practice D 2720).(b) UN Bas
18、is (unadjusted net)the weight (mass) of unscouredtextile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,or other components.3.1.3 commercial moisture regain (CMR), na formallyadopted, arbitrary value, to be used with the oven-dried mass oftextile fibers, when calculating the commerc
19、ial mass of ashipment or delivery.3.1.4 course, nin knitted fabrics, a row of successiveloops parallel to the width direction of the fabric.3.1.5 finished fabric weight, nmass per unit area ex-pressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard),grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard),
20、 or inversely asmetres per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square metresper kilogram (square yards per pound).3.1.5.1 DiscussionWhen weight (mass) is based on me-tres or linear yards, the fabric width must be stated.3.1.6 finished yield, nin knitted fabrics, the number offinished square metres
21、 per kilogram (square yards per pound)of finished fabric.3.1.7 greige yield, nin knitted fabrics, the number offinished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)of greige fabric.3.1.8 knitted fabric, na structure produced by interloopingone or more ends of yarn or comparable material.3.1.9
22、 knitted fabric count, nthe number (counted units) ofwale and courses per 25 mm (1 in.).3.1.10 length, nin fabric, the distance from one end to theother, measured parallel to the selvage or flattened tube edge offabric that is under zero tension and free of folds and wrinkles.3.1.11 tolerances, nin
23、mathematics, prescribed limits ofvariation for specified properties of a particular material basedon observed values obtained by specified test methods and onsamples that are representative of the material.3.1.12 wale, nin knitted fabrics, a column of successiveloops parallel to the length direction
24、 of the fabric.3.1.13 width, nin open-width knit fabric, the perpendicu-lar distance between the selvages when the fabric is laid flat,under zero tension, and free from folds or wrinkles.3.1.14 width, nin tubular knit fabric, the perpendiculardistance between the edges of a flattened tube of fabric
25、that isunder zero tension and free from folds or wrinkles.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Tolerances4.1 The following are the tolerances for each knitted fabricproperty:Characteristic Requirements SectionYield 65.0 % 8Weight (mass)
26、65.0 % 9Width 0 to +25 mm(1 in.)10Length 62.0 % 11Fabric count 65.0 % 12Bursting strength (ball burst) 610.0 % 13Extractable matter 1.0 %, max 14Fiber content passA15_AThose products to which the Wool Products Labeling Act of 19395apply, shallconform to the requirements of that act. Other fabrics sh
27、all conform to therequirements of the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act of 1958.45. Significance and Use5.1 Knitted fabrics are known to exhibit inherent variationsin properties. This specification lists the tolerances for eachproperty deemed acceptable in the trade.5.1.1 These tolerances ca
28、n be used to determine if knittedfabrics meet specifications for properties, and provide a guidein case of dispute.5.2 Tolerances agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller shall take precedence over those listed in this specifica-tion.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance tes
29、ting,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabrica
30、nd at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Conditioning7.1 For tests made on conditioned material, precondition thespecimens by bringing them to approximate moisture equilib-rium in the standard atmosphere for preconditioning, thenbring the specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in thes
31、tandard atmosphere for testing. It shall be considered thatmoisture equilibrium for testing has been reached when, afterfree exposure to air in motion, the change in weight (mass) ofthe specimen at successive intervals of not less than 2 h doesnot exceed 0.1 % of the specimen weight (mass).7.2 Prope
32、rties not significantly affected by minor variationsin atmospheric conditions may be tested in prevailing roomatmospheres by agreement of all parties concerned.7.3 If the samples comprise whole rolls or bolts of fabricthat cannot be properly conditioned in a reasonable time withthe facilities availa
33、ble, perform the test determinations on thematerial without conditioning. When tests are carried out underconditions that vary from the standard, report the actualconditions prevailing at the time of test. It must be recognizedthat such results may not correspond with the results obtainedafter testi
34、ng in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles.8. Test MethodYield8.1 Determine the greige yield on unscoured or scouredfabric by dividing the commercial mass (weight) of the greigefabric, obtained as directed in Test Method D 2494, into thetotal finished square metres (square yards), as calcula
35、ted fromthe width and lengths on invoices.D 3887 96 (2004)28.1.1 The general practice in the trade is to determine greigeyield on unscoured fabric. However, in some cases, greigeyield is determined on scoured fabric. Hence, the report for thegreige yield should specify whether unscoured or scoured b
36、asiswas used.8.1.1.1 When it can be shown that tests for extractablematter provide the same results as the scour procedure, themass obtained on an unscoured basis can be adjusted by theresults of tests for extractable matter, and the yield reported ona scoured fabric basis.8.2 For finished knit fabr
37、ics the yield may also be calculatedby dividing its commercial mass by the total linear metres(yards), and would be expressed as length per unit mass (yd/lb)based on a given width. For example60-in. wide open widthfabric, 2yd/lb, or 30-in. tubular fabrics, 2yd/lb.8.3 It is recognized that values for
38、 fabric widths and lengthsstated on invoices may not match those obtained by actualmeasurement. However, in the case of large shipments, it isimpractical to measure the width and length of every roll.Hence, values obtained by actual measurement may also beused to determine yields.8.4 If required, de
39、termine moisture regain by taking threespecimens weighing5gormore and representative of the lotwhen the weight (mass) of the lot is determined, placepromptly in separate airtight containers, and weigh to thenearest 1 mg. Determine the regain of these specimens asdirected in Test Methods D 2654.8.4.1
40、 The percentage moisture regain of the fabric shall bethe arithmetic mean of the results of the three determinations.NOTE 2Yield is useful to the fabric manufacturer for cost purposes.This property is unknown to the purchaser of the dyed and finished fabricunless the information on yield is supplied
41、 by the seller.9. Test MethodWeight (Mass)9.1 Determine the fabric weight (mass) as directed in TestMethod D 3776 as agreed to between the purchaser and seller(see Note 3).NOTE 3Test Method D 3776 for determining weight (mass), TestMethod D 3774 for determining width and Test Methods D 3773 fordeter
42、mining length are intended to be used with woven fabrics. Theprecision of these test methods when used to determine these propertiesfor knitted fabrics is being determined.9.1.1 The test results from Sections 7 or 8 of Test MethodD 3776 will include selvages, except in the case of circular knitfabri
43、cs.9.1.2 The test results obtained from Section 7 of TestMethod D 3776 are not on a conditioned basis since there is nopractical means to determine the actual moisture content of afull roll or piece.9.1.3 In case of controversy, the procedure in Section 8 ofTest Method D 3776 shall prevail.10. Test
44、MethodWidth10.1 Determine the maximum usable width, exclusive ofgummed or taped selvages and of minor irregularities in width,as directed in Section 9 of Test Method D 3774 as agreed tobetween the purchaser or the seller.10.1.1 The test results obtained from Section 6 of TestMethod D 3776 are not on
45、 a conditioned basis since there is nopractical means to determine the actual moisture content of afull roll or piece.10.1.2 In case of controversy, the procedure in Section 7 ofTest Method D 3774 shall prevail.11. Test MethodLength11.1 Determine the fabric length as directed in Section 6, 7,8, or 9
46、 of Test Methods D 3773 as agreed to between thepurchaser or the seller (see Note 3).11.1.1 The test results obtained from Section 7, 8, or 9 ofTest Methods D 3773 are not on a conditioned basis since thereis no practical means to determine the actual moisture contentof a full roll or piece.11.1.2 I
47、n case of controversy, the procedure in Section 6 ofTest Methods D 3773 shall prevail.12. Test MethodFabric Count12.1 ScopeThis test method is applicable to knitted fab-rics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits,and so forth.12.2 Summary of Test MethodThe number of wales andco
48、urses per unit distance are determined using suitable mag-nifying and counting devices.12.3 Significance and UseThis test method is consideredsatisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipmentsbecause of prior extensive use. In case of disagreement arisingfrom differences in values reported
49、by the purchaser and theseller when using this test method for acceptance testing, thestatistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaserand the laboratory of the seller should be determined with eachcomparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawnfrom one sampling unit of material of the type being evaluated.12.4 ApparatusUse any suitable magnifying and countingdevice (such as pick glass, rule and pointer, microfilm reader,or projection equipment).12.5 Sampling:12.5.1 Take a lot sample as directed in Sectio
