1、Designation: D 3990 99 (Reapproved 2004)Standard Terminology Relating toFabric Defects1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number
2、in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knitfabric
3、s. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and relatedmaterial are given under the most frequently used terms;synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.2. Terminology2.1 Definitions:abrasion mark, nan area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafemark)apron markSee decating mark.baggy clo
4、thSee wavy cloth.baggy selvageSee slack selvage.balling upSee fuzz ball.barr, nan unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of con-tinuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling ofwoven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.(Compare warp streak, mixed filling)DISCUSSIONThe term “
5、barr” is sometimes used as a synonym for“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barr can be caused byphysical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differencesin the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.beaded selvageSee loopy selvage.biasSee skew.birdse
6、ye, nin knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.blanket markSee sanforizing mark.blotch, nan offcolored area of any shape caused by grease oroil. (Syn. oil spot)bow, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns orknitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular tothe selvages and f
7、orm one or more arcs across the width offabric. (See also double bow)bow, doubleSee double bow.box markSee shuttle mark.break-outSee smash.broken end, nin woven fabrics, a void in the warp directiondue to yarn breakage.broken filament, nin multifilament yarn, breaks in one ormore filaments. (Syn. st
8、rip back, skin back)broken pick, nin woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the fillingdirection caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.broken selvageSee cut selvage.bruise, nin fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impactor pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.(Syn. pressur
9、e mark.)bunchSee slug.chafe markSee abrasion mark.clip mark, na visual deformation near the edge of a fabricparallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressureexerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See alsopin mark.)coarse end, na larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.heavy
10、 end) (Compare fine end)coarse fillingSee coarse pick.1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originallyapproved
11、as an appendix to Terminology D 123 in 1964. Redesignated D 3990 in1981. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as D 3990 99.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.coarse pick, nin woven fabrics, one or more picks of largerd
12、iameter than the normal filling yarn in the fabric. (Syn. thickfilling)cockles, nin yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.color bleeding, nthe loss of color from a dyed fabric whenimmersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquidmedium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.(Compare
13、 color staining.)color staining, nthe undesired pickup of color by a fabric:(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similarliquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring materialnot intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contactwith other dyed material from which color i
14、s transferred bybleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-ing)corded selvageSee loopy selvage.crack mark, nan open place causing a streak of variablelength approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn.open place, thin spot)crease, na fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or
15、markgenerally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)crease mark, na visible deformation left in a fabric after acrease has been incompletely removed during fabric process-ing.crocking, na transfer of color from the surface of a coloredfabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to anothers
16、urface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-ing)crowsfeet, nin fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees ofintensity, size, and shape.DISCUSSIONCrowsfeet may occur during wet processing and onfinished goods after folding.curlSee kink.curled selvage, nself-descriptive. (Syn. rolled sel
17、vage,turned-over edge)cut pickSee broken pick.cut selvage, ncuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)damaged selvageSee cut selvage.dead cotton, na small nep of cotton fibers which is gatheredon the surface of the fabric and which is different in colorfrom
18、the surrounding fabric.decating mark, na crease mark or impression extendingacross the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due tothe thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,leader mark)doctor streak, nin printed cloth, a wavy white or coloredstreak in the warp direction of print
19、ed cloth caused by adefective doctor blade.double bow, ntwo fabric bows, arcing in the same direction,as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.(See also bow) (Compare double reverse bow)double hooked bow, none hooked bow at each side of thefabric that arc in opposite directions. (See
20、also hooked bow)double pick, nin woven fabrics, two picks wrongly placed inthe same shed. (See also mispick) (Compare jerk-in)double reverse bow, ntwo fabric bows arcing in oppositedirections. (See also bow) (Compare double bow)draw-back, na weave distortion characterized by tight andslack places in
21、 the same warp yarn. (Syn. hitch-back)dropped stitch, nin knitted fabrics, an unknitted stitch.dye spotSee dyestain.dyestain, nan area of unintended discoloration due touneven absorption of a colorant.dye streak, nan unintended irregular stripe in a fabric due touneven absorption of a colorant.end o
22、ut, na void caused by a missing warp yarn. (Syn.missing end)filling band, nin woven fabrics, a visual defect across thewidth due to a change occurring in the yarn for a largenumber of picks. (Compare filling bar)filling bar, nin woven fabrics, a visual defect across thewidth which contains a limited
23、 number of picks of differentappearance than normal. (Compare filling band)D 3990 99 (2004)2filling run-outSee broken pick.fine end, n.a smaller than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.light end, thin end) (Compare coarse end)fine fillingSee thin filling.fine pickSee thin filling.finger mark, nan irregu
24、lar spot showing variation in picksper inch for a limited width.finishing bar, nan uneven appearance across the entirefabric width.float, na defect in which warp or filling yarn extendsunbound over the ends with which it should be interlaced.(Syn. harness skip, overshot, skip)flyerSee loom fly.frost
25、ing, na change in color in a limited area of a fabriccaused by abrasive wear.DISCUSSIONFrosting may be the result of differential wear, as inmulticomponent blends in which the fibers do not match in shade, or ofthe abrasion of single-fiber constructions in which there is somevariation in penetration
26、, or incomplete penetration, of dye-stuff. Theuse of the terms “differential wear” and “fibrillation” as substitutes forthe concept of frosting is undesirable.fuzz ball, nloose and frayed fibers that have formed into aball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric.(Syn. lint ball, snow bal
27、l) (Compare pills)fuzzy, adjcharacterized by a hairy appearance due to pro-truding broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairy)gout, nforeign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usuallylint or waste. (See also slug)hairySee fuzzy.hang pick, na pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a shortdistance, pr
28、oducing a triangular-shaped hole in the fabric.(Syn. hang shot)hang shotSee hang pick.hard endSee tight twist end.hard size, nsections of cloth containing an excessive quan-tity of sizing. (Syn. starch lump)harness skipSee float.heavy endSee coarse end.heavy fillingSee coarse pick.heavy pickSee coar
29、se pick.hitch-backSee draw-back.D 3990 99 (2004)3hole, nin fabric, an imperfection where one or more yarnsare sufficiently damaged to create an aperture.hooked bow, na fabric condition in which the filling orcourse yarns are in the proper position for most of the fabricwidth but are pulled out of al
30、ignment at one side of thefabric. (See also double hooked bow)jerk-in, nin woven fabric, an extra filling thread draggedinto the shed with the regular pick and extending only part ofthe way across the cloth. (Syn. lash-in, pull-in) (Comparedouble pick)kink, nin fabric, a short length of yarn that ha
31、s spontane-ously doubled back on itself to form a loop. (Syn. curl, kinkythread, looped yarn, snarl)kinky threadSee kink.ladderSee run.lash-inSee jerk-in.leader markSee decating mark.let-off mark, nin woven fabrics, a corrugated defect patterndistributed across the fabric width. (Compare shier)DISCU
32、SSIONLet-off marks are caused by badly adjusted let-offmotions of a loom.light endSee fine end.light fillingSee thin filling.light pickSee thin filling.lint ballSee fuzz ball.long knot, nin raw silk, knots which have loose ends from3 to 25 mm in length.long slug, nin raw silk, a slug which exceeds 1
33、0 mm (12 in.)in length or which is very much larger in diameter than theyarn.loom fly, nwaste fibers created during weaving that arewoven into a fabric. (Syn. flyer)looped yarnSee kink.loopy edgeSee loopy selvage.loopy selvage, nan improperly woven selvage of unevenwidth or a selvage containing irre
34、gular filling loops extend-ing beyond the outside edges. (Syn. beaded selvage, cordedselvage, loopy edge, rough selvage)loose course, nin knitted fabrics, a row of loops in thewidthwise direction that is larger, looser, or longer than thestitches in the main body of the fabric.loose edgeSee slack se
35、lvage.loose pickSee slack pick.lumpSee slub, slug.mill wrinkleSee crease.misclipSee scalloped selvage.misdrawSee wrong draw.mispick, nin woven fabrics, a pick not properly interlacedwhich causes a break in the weave pattern. (Syn. wrong pick)(See also double pick)misprint, nin printed fabric, colors
36、 or patterns, or both,either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positionedrelative to each other.misregister, nin printed fabric, colors or patterns not cor-rectly positioned. (Compare misprint.)missing endSee end out.missing pickSee broken pick.miss-knit, nin knitted fabrics, a deviation f
37、rom the desig-nated knitting pattern.mixed end, nin woven fabrics, a warp yarn differing fromthat normally being used in the fabric.mixed filling, nin woven fabrics, a filling yarn differing fromthat normally being used in the fabric. (See also fillingband) (Compare barr)mote trashSee trash.mussines
38、s, nsurface distortion in a fabric characterized byobjectionable uneveness due to many minor deformations.nep, na tightly tangled knot-like mass of unorganized fibers.(Compare pills.)open placeSee crack mark.overshotSee float.pick-out mark, na fillingwise band or bar characterized bya chafed or fuzz
39、y appearance.pick-out placeSee temple mark.piecing, na thick place in a spun yarn caused by poorsplicing.pills, nbunches or balls of tangled fibers which are held tothe surface of a fabric by one or more fibers. (Compare fuzzball)D 3990 99 (2004)4pin hole, nin fabrics, a very small hole, approximate
40、ly thesize of the cross section of a pin.pin mark, na series of holes near the edge parallel with thelengthwise direction of a fabric caused by the holding deviceon a pin tenter frame. (See also clip mark.)press-off, nin knitted fabrics, a condition in which the yarnfails to knit and either the fabr
41、ic falls off the needles or thedesign is distorted or incomplete.pressure mark, nSee bruise.pull-inSee jerk-in.reed mark, nin woven fabrics, a crack between groups ofwarp ends, either continuous or at intervals.reedy warpSee reed mark.ring, nin hosiery, a narrow, visually different horizontalband.ri
42、pped selvageSee cut selvage.rolled selvageSee curled selvage.rope mark, nin dyed or finished fabrics, a long irregularlyshifting longitudinal mechanically induced streak.rough, adja descriptive term for a fabric surface which hasthe feel of sandpaper.rough selvageSee loopy selvage.run, nin knitted f
43、abrics, a series of dropped stitches. (Seedropped stitch)(Syn. ladder)sanforizing mark, na crimped, rippled, wavy, pebbled, orcockled place showing distortion of the texture. (Syn. blan-ket mark)scalloped selvage, nan abrupt, narrow indentation in theselvage. (Syn. misclip)seam mark, nin finished cl
44、oth, a pressure mark caused bythe thickness of the seam being pressed against the cloth.section mark, nin woven fabrics, warp bands of differentcolor, texture, or luster.selvage mark, nin finished cloth, a lengthwise crease markalong the selvage caused by an edge being folded ordoubled.set mark, na
45、stop mark resulting from a prolonged loomshutdown.shier, nin woven fabrics, fine fillingwise cracks randomlydistributed across the fabric width. (Syn. shire) (Comparelet-off mark and crack mark)shiner, na streak, usually short caused by a lustrous sectionof filament yarn.shuttle mark, nin woven fabr
46、ics, a fine fillingwise linecaused by damage to a group of warp yarns by shuttleabrasion. (Syn. box mark)skew, na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns orknitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpen-dicular to the edge or side of the fabric.skin backSee broken filament.skipSee
47、float.slack end, na warp yarn woven under insufficient tension.(Syn. slack thread, slack warp)slack fillingSee slack pick.slack pick, na single filling yarn woven under insufficienttension. (Syn. loose pick, slack filling)slack selvage, nslack ends in the fabric edge. (Syn. baggyselvage, loose edge,
48、 stringy selvage, wavy selvage)slack threadSee slack end.slack warpSee slack end.slam-off, nin woven fabrics, a distortion due to the entrap-ment of the filling carrier in the shed. (Compare smash)slough-off, nin woven fabrics, a defect caused by severalcoils of yarn slipping off the filling bobbin
49、simultaneouslyand being woven into the fabric in a group.slub, nan abruptly thickened place in a yarn. (Syn. lump,piecing, slough-off, slug) (Compare cockles)slug, nin glass, unattenuated particles of glass of substan-tially larger diameter than the average filament diameter.(Syn. lump, piecing, slough-off, slub)slug, nin raw silk, a thickened place several times thediameter of the yarn three millimetres (18 in.) or o
