1、Designation: D 4119 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4119; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the
2、 year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, use
3、d inmens and boys dress shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all
4、of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Rela
5、ting to TextilesD 2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fab-rics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength
6、 of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated9
7、6 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Wove
8、n and Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale For Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale2
9、.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificationgive only the perma
10、nent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, orother test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shallprevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 dimensional change, n in pressing and finishing oftextiles, the change in dimensions of a fabric caused bypressing and finishing during g
11、arment manufacture.3.1.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisperformance specification, refer to the individual ASTM andAATCC methods and to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 pressing and finishingthis term takes into accountall of the industri
12、al pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No method is available for reproducing on a laboratory level1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current editio
13、n approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4119 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume informati
14、on, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Prin
15、ting Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.the results of indust
16、rial press or finishing treatments, or both, used in themanufacture of garments.63.3 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress shirts shall confor
17、m to the specification requirements inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-tion.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or
18、aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such case
19、s, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4119except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 a
20、re intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sampling6.1
21、 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two lab
22、oratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 3787 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-trav
23、erse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor Test Method D 3786 using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 3There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment
24、 and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers shouldnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting at
25、tachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using r
26、andomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 5.4 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between the purchaserand the seller with respect to time cycles, tem
27、perature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 4 and 7 of AATCC Method 135 (see Note2).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a fla
28、t-bedsteam press and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure
29、 shall beas specified by the seller.6The development of a method has been referred to Subcommittee D13.59.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in a,b,c and DP is based on a numerical scale of 5 fornegligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, co
30、lor transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequire-mentsSectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50lbf)7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1After 5 launderings (see 7.2.2.2 ifshrinkage exceeds 3%)3
31、 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles:Shade change, original fabric Class 4A,min 7.3.1Shade change after 1 launderingor1 drycleaningClass 4A,minLaundering:Shade changeStainingClass 4A,minClass 3B,min7.3.2Drycleaning:Shade change Class
32、 4A,min 7.3.3Crocking:DryWetClass 4C,minClass 3C,min7.3.4Perspiration:Shade changeStainingClass 4A,minClass 3B,min7.3.5Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4A,min 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4A,min 7.3.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4A,min 7.3.8Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)FlammabilityDP 3.5D,minPass7.
33、47.5AA AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.D 4119 01 (2008)27.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in
34、 Test Methods D 2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirements in Table 1.7.2.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum-dim
35、ensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D 2594.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is no
36、t dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be thecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “Dry-cleanable” are tobe drycleaned only.NOTE 6Specimens pre
37、pared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion dueto laundering or drycleaning. The dimensional change to pressing andfinishing is determined on the fabric as
38、it will reach the user. It is not tobe added to the dimensional change due to laundering or drycleaning ofthe fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dryc
39、leaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test co
40、nditions shall be as directed in AATCCMethod 135 (Note 5).7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints, or as
41、agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of
42、machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine co
43、lor-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the norma
44、l cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and seller as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATC
45、C Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable press (DP) ratingof such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed up
46、on between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 shirtASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users
47、of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every fi
48、ve years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical
49、committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM we
