1、Designation: D4155 01 (Reapproved 2012)D4155 14Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Woven Sportswear, Shorts, Slacks, andSuiting Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4155; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoptio
2、n or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics comprised of any textil
3、e fiber or mixture of fibers used in womensand girls sportswear, or suitings.1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.1.3 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings, jean
4、s, and dungarees.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.
5、2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Meth
6、od for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension TensileTesting Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-TraverseTensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods
7、for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel FabricsD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to CrockingAATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes6
8、1 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic and Laundering, Commercial Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking; Rotary Vertical, Crockmeter Method119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire Method124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering132 Colorfastness to D
9、ry Cleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer
10、ence Scale1 This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2012Feb. 1, 2014. Published August 2012March 2014. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approve
11、d in 20072012D4155 01(2007).(2012). DOI: 10.1520/D4155-01R12.10.1520/D4155-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on
12、the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.This document is not an ASTM standard and is i
13、ntended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the cu
14、rrent versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States12.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter D-Flamm
15、able Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. Thecurrent editions of each test method c
16、ited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods and toTerminology D123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for this specification.4. Specifications R
17、equirements4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for womens and girls sportswear and suitings shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequi
18、rements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may findacceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements l
19、isted inTable 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D4155 exceptfor the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been re
20、ached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, therequirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varyingperformance parameters for any particular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of par
21、ticular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specifiedtest methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and the su
22、pplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric andat least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force as dir
23、ected in Test Method D5034, using a constant rate of traverse(CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreed bet
24、weenthe purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and the CRE machine,consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine will prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn Slip
25、pageDetermine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts in terms of ends andpicks per inch (see 5.2).7.3 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directe
26、d in Test Method D1424.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D2261 and D2262 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tear machines and the Elmendorf machine. Consequently these tear teste
27、rs cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D1424 shall prevail.5 Available from U.S. Government Printing Office Superintendent of Documents, 732 N. Capitol St., NW, Mail Stop: SDE, Washington, DC 20401, http:/www.access.gpo.gov.6 Available from Standardization Documents Or
28、der Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.D4155 1427.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearance as directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed between the purchaser and the supplie
29、r as specified in 7.6.2 for washablefabrics or after drycleaning as specified in 7.6.3 for drycleanable fabrics (see Note 56).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable press” garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing as specifiedin Section 10.2.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.4.1.1
30、The fabric smoothness durable press (DP) rating of such fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shall havedecreased no more than 12 DP rating from that of the fabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness to burnt gas fumes (
31、on the original fabric and after one laundering or onedrycleaning) as directed in AATCC Test Method 23 after 1 cycle.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1ClassGrade for colorfastness and durable press (DP)(SA) rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, colortrans
32、fer, or wrinkle to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristics Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) CRTA 7.1Worsted and cotton count yarns:Warp 155 N (35 lbf) minFilling 133 N (30 lbf) minWoolen run yarns, each direction 111 N (25 lbf) minYarn slippage, 6.3-mm
33、(14-in.) separation at 89 N (20 lbf) min 7.2Tongue tear strength 8.9 N (2.0 lbf) min 7.3Tear strength 8.9 N (2.0 lbf) min 7.3Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5B min 7.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4C minShade change, original fabric Grade 4C minSh
34、ade change, after one laundering or one drycleaning Class 4C minShade change, after one laundering or one drycleaning Grade 4C minLaundering:FShade change Class 4C min 7.5.2Shade change Grade 4C min 7.5.2Staining Class 3D minStaining Grade 3D minDrycleaning:Shade change Class 4C min 7.5.3Shade chang
35、e Grade 4C min 7.5.3Perspiration:FShade change Class 4C min 7.5.4Shade change Grade 4C min 7.5.4Staining Class 3D minStaining Grade 3D minLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc)A Step 4C min 7.5.5Light (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc)A Grade 4C min 7.5.5Crocking:FDry Class 4E min 7.5.6Dry Grade 4E min 7.5.6Wet Cla
36、ss 3E minWet Grade 3E minFrosting:Shade change Class 4C min 7.5.7Shade change Grade 4C min 7.5.7Chlorine Bleach Class 4C , min 7.5.8Chlorine Bleach Grade 4C , min 7.5.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4C , min 7.5.9Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4C , min 7.5.9Dimensional change: 7.6Pressing and finishing 2 % ma
37、x 7.6.1Laundering 3 % max 7.6.2Drycleaning 2 % max 7.6.3Flammability pass 7.7A More than one method can be used to measure these properties. These methods cannot be used interchangeably, since there may be no overall correlation betweenthem (see Note 2, Note 4, and Note 67).B For durable press fabri
38、cs only.C AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.D AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.E AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.F See Note 5.D4155 1437.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laundering as directed in AATCC Test Method 61. The test conditions shallbe as agreed between the purchaser and suppli
39、er (see Note 56).NOTE 5It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain acombination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, th
40、erefore,recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.5.3 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.NOTE 6Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable except where all or part
41、 of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. For example,the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, as would be the case with poly(vinylchloride) fiber. Goods labeled “drycleanable” are to be drycleaned only.7.5.4 Pers
42、pirationDetermine the colorfastness to perspiration as directed inAATCC Test Method 15. Method 15 (see Note 5).7.5.5 LightDetermine the colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution between the various types of machines liste
43、d inAATCC Test Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the Water CooledXenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.5.6 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to crocking as d
44、irected inAATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC TestMethod 116 for prints, or as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.seller (see Note 5).7.5.7 FrostingDetermine the colorfastness to flat abrasion as directed in AATCC Test Method 119.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine col
45、orfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.5.9 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.6 Dimensional Change:7.6.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in Section 5.4 ofAATCC Test Meth
46、od 135.Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier with respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change as directed inSections 6 and 7 of AATCC Test Method 135
47、 (see Note 2).7.6.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the purchaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bed steampress and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensional change after five launderin
48、gs as directed in the applicable procedurein AATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier (see Note 56 and Note 78).7.6.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall be as specified by the supplier.NOTE 8Specimens prepared for 7.6.1 may be used for 7.6.2 and 7.6.3 a
49、s desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to pressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not additive to thedimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of the fabric (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change5100D 12D2!/D2 (1)where:D 1 = measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2 = measurement after pressing and finishing.7.6.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensional change after three drycleanings as directed in
