1、Designation: D5646 11Standard Terminology Relating toSeams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A num
2、ber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewingmachines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easilyunderstood language for
3、the definitions and descriptions ofseams and seam finishes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily con-sisten with those used in the apparel or home furnishingsmanufacturing industries.1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use inthe preparation of educ
4、ational materials and pattern guidesheets for home sewing.1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discus-sion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and anillustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. Thisterminology does not include stitches made by sergers, hem-mers,
5、or by attachments to the home sewing machines.1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced ona conventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropri-ate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminol
6、ogy, is categorized into twosubsections, specific to the two areas of specialization underthis document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this st
7、andard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles2.2 Federal Standard:3Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching3. TerminologyRELATI
8、NG TO SEAMSback side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatfaces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,right side. Syn. wrong side.)bound seam-finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in whichanother material is used to enclose the cut edges of one ormore seam allowances.
9、(Compare Hong Kong seam finish.)(See Fig. 1.)DISCUSSIONA bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cutseam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitchingthrough all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material usedmay be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or li
10、ghtweight knitfabric such as tricot or net. If tape or binding is used, the wider fold sideof the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually; however,seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as thearmsc
11、ye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edgestitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seamfinish.)DISCUSSIONA clean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turn
12、ing undereach cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm (18to14 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. A stabilizing line ofstitching 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) from a curved cut edge will facilitateturning before stitching close to the plex seam, nin home sewing, a seam made
13、 in two ormore steps. (Ant. plain seam.)DISCUSSIONComplex seams have one or more stitching lines as partof their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or se
14、am1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2011. Published February 2011. Originallyapproved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D5646 96 (2008)
15、.DOI: 10.1520/D5646-11.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard N
16、o. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching,General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Stan-dardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave.,Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West C
17、onshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.finishes or decorative additions to seams.double-welt seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmedseam allowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching arevisible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. moc
18、kflat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)DISCUSSIONA double-welt seam is made like a welt seam exceptthat it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the originalseam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the
19、 sewnproduct and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added nearthe original seam line.edge-stitched seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge ofeach seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)(See Fig. 4.)DISCUSSIONAn edge-st
20、itched seam finish is made by straightstitching approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) from each cut edge ofeach seam allowance.face side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatis outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,wrong side. Syn. right side.)flat-felled seam, nin home
21、 sewing, a complex seam formedon the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and tworows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (SeeFig. 5.)DISCUSSIONA flat-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seamwith the back sides together, (2) pressing both seam allowances to oneside, (3)
22、 trimming the under seam allowance to approximately18 in. (3mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and(5) topstitching close to the fold.French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed onthe inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and nostitching rows visible o
23、n the face side. (Compare mockFrench seam.) (See Fig. 6.)DISCUSSIONA French seam is made by (1) placing two sections offabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm (38 in.)from the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seamallowance to 3 mm (18 in.) if the fabri
24、c does not ravel easily, or toslightly less than 6 mm (14 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clippingor notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively willfit the larger or smaller area, against which they will be pressed, (6)folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pre
25、ssing again with thestitched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mmfrom the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of thetrimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The two seamallowances make a total of 15 mm (58 in.), the standard seam allowancewidth. No stitc
26、hing lines are visible from the face side. French seamsare more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.glued seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by the use ofan adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, ther-mally bonded seam.)FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 2 Clea
27、n-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of FabricFIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of FabricD5646 112DISCUSSIONAdhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, orhot glue.hand-overcast seam fin
28、ish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wrapsaround the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)DISCUSSIONA hand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needleand thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm (14 in.) apartand3to6mm(18 to1
29、4 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread thatpasses over the edge.Hong Kong seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of eachseam allowance separately and in which the bind
30、ing fabrichas one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed.(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)DISCUSSIONA Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1) selecting astrip of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such astricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1
31、 in.)wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sidestogether and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm (14 in.) from the cutedges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cutedge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching inthe previously forme
32、d stitching line on the face side of the seamallowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to theunder side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to thestitching.inside seam, nin home sewing, a seam having seam
33、 allow-ances located within the interior, or the underside, of theproduct. (Compare outside seam.)DISCUSSIONExamples of inside seams include double-welt seams,French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams.joining line, nSee seam.lapped seam, except the topsti
34、tching is farther from the foldthan that of a lapped seam 6 to 10 mm (14 to38 in.).turned and stitched seam finish, nSee clean finished seamfinish.lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, nin homesewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of theproduct, with neither cut edge enclosed and havi
35、ng one ortwo rows of stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside.(Compare lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric.) (SeeFig. 9(a) and (d).)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is madeby (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2)trimming off the entire seam al
36、lowance (15 mm (58 in.) on the overlapor top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap sectionover the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamlinebeneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rowsof stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be use
37、d. This seam isused on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where anexposed cut edge is not a concern.lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, nin homesewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the productwith neither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visibleline of topstitchin
38、g on the face side and a small fold formedby the topstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section alongthe 15-mm (58-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from theri
39、ght side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section withthe fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold throughall layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.material, nin home sewing, a planar structure such as textilefabric, plastic film, or leather.FIG. 6 French Se
40、am from Back Side of FabricFIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric(a) (d)FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from FaceSide of MaterialD5646 113DISCUSSION“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather andplastic f
41、ilm. Joining methods for seams may vary.mock flat-felled seam, nSee double-welt seam.mock French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosedand no stitching visible on the face side; similar in appear-ance to the French seam but constructed differ
42、ently. (Com-pare French seam.) (See Fig. 11.)DISCUSSIONA mock French seam is made by (1) placing two piecesof fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm (58-in.)seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm (12 in.), (4)clipping or notching, as appropriate, 3 mm (18 in.) on a
43、ny curved edgesso that curved seam allowances can fit the area against which they arefolded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding andpressing each of the seam allowances 6 mm (14 in.) toward the otherand the seamline, bringing the folded edges together, and (7) stitchingthe two s
44、eam allowances together 1.5 mm (116 in.) from the foldededges. Mock French seams are more appropriate for curved areas thanFrench seams.outside seam, nin home sewing, a seam in which the seamallowance of the completed seam is visible from the faceside of the sewn product. (Compare inside seam.)DISCU
45、SSIONAn example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.plain seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by a single lineof stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)DISCUSSIONA plain seam joins two or more material sections;multiple layers of material may be treated as a single layer or se
46、ction.Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not havea finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machinestitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3to6mm(18 to14 in.) from the original seam line within the seamallowance. Reinforcement is app
47、ropriate for armscye, crotch, andwaistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of aseam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in awaistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.pinked seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich a zigzagged
48、or scalloped cut edge is produced.(Compare stitched and pinked seam finish). (See Fig. 14).DISCUSSIONA pinked seam finish is made by trimming, withpinking or scalloping shears, close to the cut edge of the seamallowance. This seam finish is more decorative than functional.right side, nSee face side.
49、rolled seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in whichboth cut edges are enclosed by rolling them to one side andhand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line withinthe seam allowance. (See Fig. 15.)DISCUSSIONA rolled seam finish is made by (1) trimming the seamallowance to 10 mm (38 in.), (2) rolling the seam allowances togetherwith thumb and forefinger to one side so that cut edges are enclosed,and (3) hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within theseam allowance.FIG. 1
