1、Designation: D 6193 97 (Reapproved 2004)Standard Practice forStitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in pare
2、ntheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristicsof stitche
3、s and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, andgeneral purpose for stitch types and seam types used in thefabrication of sewn items.1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seamsthat include schematic indices, this practice is
4、 comprised of thefollowing sections that are listed in the order in which theyappear:1.3.1 Section 5Classification of Stitch Types for whichdrawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-62,1.3.2 Section 6Classification of Seam Types for whichdrawings are shown in Seam Figs. 63-281, and1.3.3 Annex A1Seam Asse
5、mbly Recommendations.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior t
6、o use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 204 Test Methods for Sewing ThreadsD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seam of WovenFabricsD 1908 Test Method for Nee
7、dle Related Damage Due toSewing in Woven FabricsD 3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) andElongation of Sewn Seams of Knit and Woven StretchTextile Fabrics3D 4034 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at theSewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics Plain, Tufted,or Flocked3. Terminology3.
8、1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial orcomplete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needlepassing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThis can also be referred to as needlecuts.3.1.2 seam, na line where two or more fabrics are joined,usually near the e
9、dge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapledseam, thermally bonded seam.)3.1.3 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance fromthe edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.4 seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtainedwhen fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam
10、.3.1.5 seam damage, nin sewn fabrics, an adverse changein the physical condition of one or more of the components ina seam which would reduce the seam acceptability such as yarnslippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.3.1.6 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio of seamstrength to fabric stre
11、ngth.3.1.6.1 DiscussionFor some constructions, yarn strengthand stitch type can contribute to a higher seam efficiency value.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacementof the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des-ignat
12、ion relating to the essential characteristics of fabricpositioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabricseam.3.1.9 sew, vto unite or fasten with stitches.1This practice is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Sub
13、assemblies.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1997 as D 6193 97.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
14、Standards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.TABLE 1 Stitch and Seam DefectsStitch Defects Seam Assembly DefectsLoose stitches PuckersPoorly formed stitches TwistsCrowded stitches PlaitsTight stitches UndulationsCrooked stitches Run-off (ra
15、ised seams)Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed(felled seams)1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.10 sewing thread, na flexible, small-diameter yarn orstrand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, orboth, in
16、tended to be used to stitch one or more pieces ofmaterial or an object to a material.3.1.11 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at whichtwo or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joinedby sewing, usually near the edge.3.1.12 stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the inter-laci
17、ng of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See alsostitching, and stitch type.)3.1.13 stitch density, nin sewn seams, the number ofstitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.3.1.13.1 DiscussionThis is usually expressed as stitchesper inch (spi).3.1.14 stitch gage, nin sewn s
18、eams, the perpendiculardistance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on theundersurface of the material.FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101NOTE 1This type of stitch shall
19、be formed with two needle threads A and A8. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A8 shallbe interlooped with itself and with thread A.FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface o
20、f the material. The threadshall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle threadwhich shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the m
21、aterial.FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104D 6193 97 (2004)23.1.15 stitch type, nin sewn seams, a numerical designa-tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing ofsewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.3.1.16 stitching, na series of stitches embodied in amaterial or materials of planar struc
22、ture such as woven textilefabrics usually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge, orboth.3.1.17 yarn slippage, nin sewn seams in sewn fabrics, thedisplacement of one or more yarns from the original position,causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both.3.2 For definitions of other textile
23、 terms used in thispractice, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitchtype, seam configuration, and thread type which should be usedfor a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge ofmany variables. The improper selection of
24、any one componentcan result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failureof the product manufactured.4.2 General CharacteristicsThe characteristics of a prop-erly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,security, and appearance. These characteristics must be bal-anced wi
25、th the properties of the material to be joined to formNOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of thebottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall
26、interloop with itself on the surface of the material at thecenter line.FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A8, which shall be passed through the material in the same perforationsfrom opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.FI
27、G. 6 Stitch Type 201NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.FIG. 7 Stitch
28、Type 202D 6193 97 (2004)3the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will governthe relative importance of these characteristics. The selectionof the seam type and stitch type should be based upon theseconsiderations.4.2.1 StrengthThe seam efficiency of the sewn seamshould be as high as possible.
29、 This will produce sewn seamstrength with a balanced construction that will withstand theforces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elementsaffecting the strength of a sewn seam are:4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.1.2 Seam type,4.2.1.3 Stitch type,4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.1.5 T
30、hread tension, and4.2.1.6 Thread strength.4.2.2 ElasticityThe elasticity of a sewn seam should beslightly greater than that of the material which it joins. Thiswill enable the material to support its share of the forcesencountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. Theelasticity of a sewn se
31、am depends upon:4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.2.2 Seam type,4.2.2.3 Stitch type,4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.4.2.3 DurabilityThe durability of a sewn seam dependslargely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seamand the elasti
32、city of the material. However, in less elastic,tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for theplies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewnseam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefullychosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully deter-mined
33、 for the material so as not to cause excess tension whichwill unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is alsoimportant to minimize abrasion and wear by contact withoutside agencies to promote durability.4.2.4 SecurityThe security of a sewn seam dependschiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and
34、its susceptibility tobecome unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the materialto prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread andunraveling of certain stitch types.4.2.5 AppearanceThe appearance of a sewn seam gener-ally is governed by the proper relationship between the size andtype of
35、 thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight ofthe fabric.4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, thetechnique and skill of the sewing machine operators alsogovern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factorswhich will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Ta
36、ble1.5. Classification of Stitch Types5.1 FunctionBecause all stitch types require that a needlepenetrate a fabric while transporting a sewing thread, it isimportant to understand how the unique characteristics ofevery stitch type are dependent upon the mechanical actions ofthe sewing machine. See S
37、titch Type Figs. 1-62.5.2 Stitch Requirements:5.2.1 Stitches are divided into six classes which are identi-fied by the first digit of three digit numerals. Each class isdivided into several types which are identified by the secondand third digit. All stitch types shall conform to the drawingsunless
38、otherwise specified.5.2.1.1 Stitch Class 100This class of stitch (Types 101through 105) is formed with one or more needle threads andrequires interlooping. A loop (or loops) of thread(s) shall bepassed through the material and be secured by interloopingwith succeeding loop or loops, after they are p
39、assed throughthe material, to form a stitch.5.2.1.2 Stitch Class 200This class of stitch (Types 201through 205) is formed by hand with one or more needlethreads and requires that each thread passes through thematerial as a single line of thread. Each stitch is secured by thesingle line of thread pas
40、sing in and out of the material or theinterlooping of the threads with themselves. When more thanone thread is used, the threads pass through the same perfora-tions in the material.5.2.1.3 Stitch Class 300This class of stitch (Types 301through 316) is formed with two or more groups of threads andreq
41、uires the interlacing of the two groups. Loops of the firstgroup are passed through the material where they are securedby the thread(s) of the second group to form a stitch.5.2.1.4 Stitch Class 400This class of stitch (Types 401through 407) shall be formed with two or more groups ofthreads and requi
42、res the interlacing and interlooping of theloops of the two groups. Loops of the first group of threads arepassed through the material and are secured by interlacing andinterlooping with loops of the second group to form a stitch.5.2.1.5 Stitch Class 500This class of stitch (Types 501through 522) is
43、 formed with one or more groups of thread, andrequires that loops from at least one group of thread shall passaround the edge of the material. Loops of one group of threadare passed through the material and are secured by interloopingwith themselves before succeeding loops are passed throughthe mate
44、rial, or secured by interlooping with loops of one ormore interlooped groups of threads before succeeding loops ofthe first group are again passed through the material.NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread,which shall be passed through the material from the underside andim
45、mediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop onthe surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length,passed through the material and the loop and immediately passed backthrough the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall beformed to recei
46、ve the succeeding stitch.FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203D 6193 97 (2004)45.2.1.6 Stitch Class 600This class of stitch (Types 601through 607) is formed with two or more groups of threads,and requires that two of the groups cover the raw edges of bothsurfaces of the material. Loops of the first group of thread
47、 arepassed through loops of the third group already cast on thesurface of the material and then through the material wherethey are interlooped with loops of the second group of threadon the underside of the material. The one exception to thisprocedure is stitch type 601 where only two groups of thre
48、adare used and the function of the third group is performed byone of the threads in the first group.6. Classification of Seam Types6.1 Function:6.1.1 Seam classification relates directly to the positioningof fabric sections at the junction where these sections are sewn.6.1.2 All seam types are class
49、ified by an alphabeticaldesignation. See Figs 282291.6.1.3 Seams are divided into six classes. Each class issubdivided into types and are designated by symbols asfollows:6.1.3.1 Class of SeamTwo or more upper case letters.6.1.3.2 Types of the ClassOne or more lower case letters.6.1.3.3 Number of Rows of StitchesOne or more Arabicnumerals. ExampleThe symbol for a simple super-imposedseam type with one row of stitches is: SSa-1.6.1.3.4 Generally, most seam types can be produced usingmultiple rows of stitching. The symbol for the s
