1、Designation: D6554/D6554M 14Standard Specification for100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6554/D6554M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number
2、in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture ofjeans, casual apparel, work
3、 clothing, and outerwear.1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denimfabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.1.3 This specification covers the performance of denimfabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to
4、 be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of
5、thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and to determine theapplicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D123 Terminology Relating
6、 to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)2D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles(Withdrawn 2010)2D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD3107 Test Meth
7、ods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Wo-ven from Stretch YarnsD3774 Test Method for Width of Textile FabricD3776 Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) ofFabricD3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven andKnitted FabricsD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabric
8、s (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Standards3:Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: CrockmeterMethodTest Method 16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-ArcTest Method 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: AcceleratedTest Method 109 Colorfastness to Ozone in the AtmosphereUnder Low H
9、umiditiesTest Method 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodTest Method 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics afterHome LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC9 Step Chromatic Trans-fe
10、rence Scale2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 16.10, Chapter II, Subchapter DFlammable Fab-rics Act Regulations42.4 Other Document:Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology3NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification gives only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethod
11、s. The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.61, Apparel, refer toTerminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:denim, indigo dyed, jeans, heavy-weight, light-weight,medium-weight.3.2 For all other te
12、rms related to textiles, see TerminologyD123 and the Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology.3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition
13、 approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 2000. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as D655409. DOI:10.1520/D6554_D6554M-14.2The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Co
14、lorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Available from US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.3.1 heavy-weight, adjfabric ma
15、ss (weight) of 466 g/m2(13.75 oz/yd2) or greater.3.3.2 light-weight, adjfabric mass (weight) of 271 g/m2(8.00 oz/yd2) or less.3.3.3 medium-weight, adjfabric mass (weight) of 272g/m2 465 g/m2(8.01 oz/yd2 13.74 oz/yd2).4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fab-rics
16、intended for this end use should meet all of the require-ments listed in Table 1 of this specification.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion oraesthetics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from thesefabrics may find the product acceptable, even if it does notconform to all of the req
17、uirements in Table 1 or Table 2. Oneor more of the requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2,therefore, may be modified upon agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to this specification mustspecify the following: “This fabric meets ASTM SpecificationD6554
18、 except for the following characteristic(s):” All excep-tions must be noted.4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 areintended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimat
19、econsumer demands dictate varying performance parameters forany particular style of fabric.5. Sampling5.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,select at random the number of rolls designated in an appli-cable specification or other agreement between the purchaserand the supplier.5.2 Labo
20、ratory SampleAfter removing the outer layerfrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratoryTABLE 1 Performance RequirementsCharacteristics Requirements SectionHeavy Weight Medium Weight Light WeightBreaking Strength (Force), CRT: 7.1Warp 801 N (180 lbf), min 578 N (130 lbf), min 356 N (
21、80 lbf), minFilling 312 N (70 lbf), min 244 N (55 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minElmendorf Tear Strength: 7.2Warp 51 N (11.5 lbf), min 35 N (8.0 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minFilling 18 N (4.0 lbf), min 15 N (3.5 lbf), min 13 N (3.0 lbf), minYarn Slippage: 7.3(14-in. Separation) 222 N+ (50 lbf +) 133 N
22、+ (30 lbf +) 111 N+ (25 lbf +)Skewness: 7.43 1 Twill, only 8%3%(wtl)A2 1 Twill, only 4.5 3 %(wtl)AStretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.5Width as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.6Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.7Dimensional Chan
23、ge, %Laundering 7.8Preshrunk (each direction) 4.0 % max,Flammability Class I 7.9AWTL = with the twill line.TABLE 2 Colorfastness RequirementsNon-Indigo Dyed Indigo Dyed and Sulfur Black Colors SectionColorfastness:Ozone, two cycles, shade change 7.10.1OriginalAGrade 4 min Grade 3.5 minAfter one laun
24、dry cycleAGrade 4 min Grade 4 minLaundering: 7.10.2Shade changeAGrade 3.5, min Grade 2, minStainBGrade 3, min Grade 2, minLightA(20 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc): Grade 4, min Grade 4, min 7.10.3Crocking:C,D7.10.4Dry Grade 4, min Grade 3, minWet Grade 1.5, min Grade 1.5, minScaleAAATCC Gray Scale for Color C
25、hangeBAATCC Gray Scale for StainingCAATCC Chromatic TransferenceDSee Note 2.NOTE 1Grade for color change or color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible to 1 for severe color change or color transfer. Theseproperties may not be relevant if the denim will be garment wet processed.
26、 Other properties may be negotiable between customer and supplier.D6554/D6554M 142samples spanning the full width of the fabric and at least 1 m(1 yd) in length, along the selvage.6. Specification Requirement6.1 The properties of woven denim fabrics conform toTables 1 and 2 specifications.7. Test Me
27、thods7.1 Breaking Strength (Force)Determine the dry-breakingstrength (force) as directed in the grab test procedure of TestMethod D5034, using the constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm. Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile test-i
28、ng machinery may be used upon agreement between purchaserand supplier, recognizing that the two tensile testers do notnecessarily yield similar results.7.2 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Test Method D1424.7.3 Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistance to yarn slip-page as outlined
29、 in Test Method D434.7.4 SkewnessDetermine skewness as directed in TestMethod D3882; bow measurements also may be determined.7.5 Warp ElongationDetermine warp elongation as out-lined in Test Method D3107.7.6 WidthDetermine fabric width as outlined in TestMethod D3774.7.7 WeightDetermine fabric weigh
30、t as outlined in TestMethod D3776.7.8 Dimensional ChangeDetermine dimensional changeas outlined in AATCC Test Method 135. Measurements shouldbe made after three laundry cycles.7.8.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall be asdirected in the applicable procedure in AATCC Test Method135.This
31、 procedure does not simulate garment finishing7.9 FlammabilityThe flammability test and requirementsshall meet or exceed the applicable Flammable Fabrics Actmandatory standards as specified in Part 1610 of the Flam-mable Fabrics Act Regulations. For additional information seeTest Method D1230.7.10 C
32、olorfastness to:7.10.1 OzoneDetermine the colorfastness to ozone asdirected in AATCC Test Method 109.7.10.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 61. The test conditionsshall be as agreed upon between the purchaser and supplier.NOTE 2It has been report
33、ed that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining resul
34、ts obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.10.3 LightDetermining the colorfastness to light asdirected in AATCC Test Method 16 using Option E.7.10.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to Crockingas directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Test Me
35、thod 116 for prints, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier (see Note 2).8. Keywords8.1 apparel; denim; jeans; pants; specificationsASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users
36、 of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every f
37、ive years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical
38、 committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken,
39、PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D6554/D6554M 143
