1、Designation: D 6554 00Standard Performance Specification for100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6554; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number
2、in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for100 % cotton woven denim fabrics used in the manufacture ofjeans, casual apparel, work
3、clothing, and outerwear.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective cloth-ing.1.3 This standard covers the performance of denim fabric onrolls ready for garment manufacturing.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesaf
4、ety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and to determine theapplicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relating to T
5、extiles2D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarn inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam2D 1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles2D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus2D 3107 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Wov
6、en Fab-rics from Stretch Yarns3D 3774 Test Method for Width of Woven Fabric4D 3776 Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) ofWoven Fabric4D 3882 Test Method for Bow and Skewness in Woven andKnitted Fabrics4D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)42.2 AA
7、TCC Standards5:Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crock-meter MethodTest Method 16(Option E) Colorfastness to Light: Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous LightTest Method 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home andCommercial: AcceleratedTest Method 109 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmos
8、phereUnder Low HumiditiesTest Method 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodTest Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Woven or Knit FabricsEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Proce
9、dure 8 AATCC9 Step Chromatic Trans-ference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 16.10, Chapter II, Subchapter DFlammable Fab-rics Act Regulations62.4 Other Document:Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology5NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification gives only thepermanent part of the designatio
10、n of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 denim, na durable woven twill fabric, usually of allcotton or a blend of cotton and manufactured fibers, made froma variety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric w
11、eights,colors, designs, and finishes.3.1.2 indigo dyed, adja condition of the yarn after beingcolored with a blue dye from the indigo plant or syntheticprocess.3.1.3 jeans, npants or slacks made from denim fabrics.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to Termino
12、logy D 123 and the Glossary ofAATCC Standard Terminology.3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.3.1 heavy-weight, adjfabric mass (weight) of 466 g/m2(13.75 oz/yd2) or greater.3.3.2 light-weight, adjfabric mass (weight) of 271 g/m2(8.00 oz/yd2) or less.1This test method is under the jur
13、isdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved June 10, 2000. Published September 2000.2Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.3Discontinued; See 1998 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4Annual Book of ASTM S
14、tandards, Vol 07.02.5Available from the American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists, POBox 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.6Available from US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.
15、3.3 medium-weight, adjfabric mass (weight) of 272g/m2 465 g/m2(8.01 oz/yd2 13.74 oz/yd2).4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fab-rics intended for this end use should meet all of the require-ments listed in Table 1 of this specification.4.2 It is recognized that
16、 for purposes of fashion or aesthet-ics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from these fabricsmay find the product acceptable, even if it does not conform toall of the requirements in Table 1 or Table 2. One or more ofthe requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2, therefore, may bemodified upon a
17、greement between the purchaser and thesupplier.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to this specification mustspecify the following: “This fabric meets ASTM SpecificationD 6554 except for the following characteristic(s):” All excep-tions must be noted.4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reach
18、edbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 areintended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimateconsumer demands dictate varying performance parameters forany particular style of fabric.5. Sampling5.1 Lot SampleAs a lot
19、sample for acceptance testing,select at random the number of rolls designated in an appli-cable specification or other agreement between the purchaserand the supplier.5.2 Laboratory SampleAfter removing the outer layerfrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratorysamples spanning the
20、full width of the fabric and at least 1 m(1 yd) in length, along the selvage.6. Specification Requirement6.1 The properties of woven denim fabrics conform toTables 1 and 2 specifications.7. Test Methods7.1 Breaking Strength (Force)Determine the dry-breakingstrength (force) as directed in the grab te
21、st procedure of TestMethod D 5034, using the constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in./min). Constant-rate-of-extension(CRE) tensile testing machinery may be used upon agreementbetween purchaser and supplier, recognizing th
22、at the twotensile testers do not necessarily yield similar results.7.2 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Test Method D 1424.7.3 Seam SlippageDetermine the fabric seam slippage asoutlined in Test Method D 434.7.4 SkewnessDetermine skewness as directed in TestMethod D 3882; bow me
23、asurements also may be determined.7.5 Warp ElongationDetermine warp elongation as out-lined in Test Method D 3107.7.6 WidthDetermine fabric width as outlined in TestMethod D 3774.7.7 WeightDetermine fabric weight as outlined in TestMethod D 3776.7.8 Dimensional ChangeDetermine dimensional changeas o
24、utlined in AATCC Test Method 135. Measurements shouldbe made after three laundry cycles.7.8.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall be asdirected in the applicable procedure in AATCC Test Method135.7.9 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser a
25、nd the supplier,provided they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.7.10 Colorfastness to:7.10.1 OzoneDetermine the colorfastness to ozone asdirected in AATCC Test Method 109.7.10.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laun-dering as directed in AATCC Test Met
26、hod 61. The testTABLE 1 Performance RequirementsCharacteristics Requirements SectionHeavy Weight Medium Weight Light WeightBreaking Strength (Force), CRT: 7.1Warp 801 N (180 lbf), min 578 N (130 lbf), min 356 N (80 lbf), minFilling 312 N (70 lbf), min 244 N (55 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minElmendorf
27、 Tear Strength: 7.2Warp 51 N (11.5 lbf), min 35 N (8.0 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minFilling 18 N (4.0 lbf), min 15 N (3.5 lbf), min 13 N (3.0 lbf), minSeam Slippage: 7.3(14-in. Separation) 222 N+ (50 lbf +) 133 N+ (30 lbf +) 111 N+ (25 lbf +)Skewness: 7.43 3 1 Twill, only 8%6 3 %(wtl)A2 3 1 Twill, o
28、nly 4.5 6 3 %(wtl)AStretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.5Width as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.6Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.7Dimensional Change, %Laundering 7.8Preshrunk (each direction) 4.0 % max,Flammability Class IB7.
29、9AWTL = with the twill line.BMeets federal regulations for wearing apparel. See 2.3.D 65542conditions shall be as agreed upon between the purchaser andsupplier.7.10.3 LightDetermining the colorfastness to light asdirected in AATCC Test Method 16 using Option E.7.10.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastn
30、ess to Crockingas directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier.8. Keywords8.1 apparel; denim; jeans; pants; specificationsThe American Society for Testing and Materials takes no position respecting the v
31、alidity of any patent rights asserted in connectionwith any item mentioned in this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any suchpatent rights, and the risk of infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is s
32、ubject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM Headquarters. Your
33、comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of the responsibletechnical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you should make yourviews known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyri
34、ghted by ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the above address or at610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or t
35、hrough the ASTM website (www.astm.org).TABLE 2 Colorfastness RequirementsNon-Indigo Dyed Indigo Dyed and Sulfur Black Colors SectionColorfastness:Ozone, two cycles, shade change 7.10.1Original (*A) Grade 4 min Grade 3.5 minAfter one laundry cycle (*A) Grade 4 min Grade 4 minLaundering: 7.10.2Shade c
36、hange (*A) Grade 3.5, min Grade 2, minStain (*B) Grade 3, min Grade 2, minLight (*A) (20 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc): Grade 4, min Grade 4, min 7.10.3Crocking (*C): 7.10.4Dry Grade 4, min Grade 3, minWet Grade 1.5, min Grade 1.5, minScale*AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change*BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining*CA
37、ATCC Chromatic TransferenceNOTE 1Class for color change or color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible to 1 for severe color change or color transfer. Theseproperties may not be relevant if the denim will be garment wet processed. Other properties may be negotiable between customer and supplier.D 65543
