1、BSI Standards PublicationBS ISO 15625:2014Silk Electronic test methodfor defects and evenness ofraw silkBS ISO 15625:2014 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of ISO 15625:2014.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee TCI/
2、24, Physical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards Institutio
3、n 2014. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2014ISBN 978 0 580 71673 7ICS 59.080.01Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 May 2014.Amendments issued sinc
4、e publicationDate Text affectedBS ISO 15625:2014 ISO 2014Silk Electronic test method for defects and evenness of raw silkSoie Mthode dessai lectronique pour les dfauts et la rgularit de la soie bruteINTERNATIONAL STANDARDISO15625First edition2014-05-01Reference numberISO 15625:2014(E)BS ISO 15625:20
5、14ISO 15625:2014(E)ii ISO 2014 All rights reservedCOPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT ISO 2014All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the
6、 internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below or ISOs member body in the country of the requester.ISO copyright officeCase postale 56 CH-1211 Geneva 20Tel. + 41 22 749 01 11Fax + 41 22 749 09 47E-mail copyrightiso.orgWeb
7、www.iso.orgPublished in SwitzerlandBS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E) ISO 2014 All rights reserved iiiContents PageForeword ivIntroduction v1 Scope . 12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions . 14 Principle 25 Apparatus . 26 Atmospheres for conditioning and testing 37 Lot formation and sampli
8、ng . 37.1 Lot formation 37.2 Sampling . 38 Laboratory sample preparation . 48.1 Raw silk in skein 48.2 Raw silk on cone 48.3 Soaked silk 48.4 Sampling length 49 Setting 49.1 Setting of the apparatus 49.2 Setting of the testing parameters of defects 510 Test procedure 511 Calculation and expression o
9、f test results . 512 Precision . 613 Test report . 6Annex A (normative) Defect counting and classification 7Annex B (informative) Difference between the optical and capacitive sensors in detecting defects of raw silk . 9Annex C (normative) Method for preparing soaked raw silk in lab 10Annex D (infor
10、mative) An example of the electronic testing result sheet 12Annex E (informative) Testing precision .13Bibliography .15BS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The wo
11、rk of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governm
12、ental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in th
13、e ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives). Attention is drawn to the poss
14、ibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list o
15、f patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents). Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not constitute an endorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as
16、 information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary informationThe committee responsible for this document is ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres and yarns.iv ISO 2014 All rights reservedBS ISO 1
17、5625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)IntroductionSeriplane test is currently used to test defects and evenness of raw silk. The test is carried out in an inspection room with a special lighting system. Due to the difference of the coverage area of the threads on the board, and the penetration and reflection of
18、 the light, the evenness or stripes, cleanness, and neatness can be visually judged by comparing the Seriplane boards with the standard photos. The capacitive tester for raw silk detects the electrical capacitance variation correlated with the mass variation of the silk thread when running through t
19、he sensor split having a certain length. The dimension and classification of defects are defined by setting the parameters of mass variation.The optical tester detects the photometric variation of the shadow of silk thread correlated with the cross sectional area variation of the thread. The dimensi
20、on and classification of defects are defined by setting the parameters of cross sectional area variation. The optical tester can detect the shape of defects that cannot be done by capacitive tester, but the later tester can detect the evenness of the raw silk precisely, thus the two kinds of tests g
21、ive to some extent parallel information (defects are detected and counted with both sensors) but give also complementary information not available with a single sensor alone. ISO 2014 All rights reserved vBS ISO 15625:2014BS ISO 15625:2014Silk Electronic test method for defects and evenness of raw s
22、ilk1 ScopeThis International Standard specifies a test method for defects and evenness of raw silk by capacitive and optical electronic testers.This International Standard is applicable to raw silk with the yarn size between 13,3 dtex and 76,7 dtex or 12 denier and 69 denier, whether in skein or on
23、cone, soaked or unsoaked.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced docum
24、ent (including any amendments) applies.ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testingISO 2060, Textiles Yarn from packages Determination of linear density (mass per unit length) by the skein method3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this document, the following terms and
25、definitions apply.3.1raw silksilk filament yarn formed by conglutinating a number of bombyx mori cocoon baves by reeling machine according to a certain reeling technique and quality requirement3.2soaked silkraw silk soaked in a formulation of additives according to a technical requirement3.3electron
26、ic test methodmethod for evaluating the defects and evenness by using capacitive and optical testers3.4slubfor the capacitive method, the defect whose length is equal to or greater than 1 mm and whose mass surpasses 80 % of the average mass of the testing sample; for the optical method, the defect w
27、hose length is equal to or greater than 1 mm and whose cross-sectional area surpasses 80 % of the average cross-sectional area of the testing sampleNote 1 to entry: Slub can be classified into big slub and small slub, which can be referred to A.1.1.3.5thick placefor the capacitive method, the defect
28、 whose length is equal to or greater than 10 mm and whose mass surpasses 35 % to 80 % of the average mass of the testing sample; for the optical method, the defect whose length is equal to or greater than 10 mm and whose cross-sectional area surpasses 30 % to 80 % of the average cross-sectional area
29、 of the testing sampleINTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 15625:2014(E) ISO 2014 All rights reserved 1BS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)3.6thin placefor the capacitive method, the defect whose length is equal to or higher than 10 mm and whose mass is over 40 % lower than the average mass of the testing sampl
30、e; for the optical method, the defect whose length is equal to or higher than 10 mm and whose cross-sectional area is over 30 % lower than the average cross-sectional area of the testing sample3.7small imperfection elementSIEdefect whose length is no greater than 1 mm, and whose mass or cross-sectio
31、nal area surpasses 80 % of the average mass or the average cross-sectional area of the testing sample3.8evennessCVeven%, CV5m%, and CV50m%variation in mass per unit length along the length of the yarn, expressed as coefficient of variationNote 1 to entry: CVeven % is the coefficient of variation of
32、the sample mass calculated from the masses of 1 cm yarn length segments.Note 2 to entry: CV5m % is the coefficient of variation of the sample mass calculated from the masses of 5 m yarn length segments.Note 3 to entry: CV50m % is the coefficient of variation of the sample mass calculated from the ma
33、sses of 50 m yarn length segments.3.9CVbetween%coefficient of variation between the individual evenness values of the skeins or cones from one tested lotNote 1 to entry: CVbetween% represents an indication of the evenness homogeneity between skeins or cones of the tested lot.4 PrincipleDefects of ra
34、w silk, soaked or unsoaked, are evaluated, classified, and counted on the basis of variation of the electric capacity, in case of capacitive sensors, and of the photoelectric effect, in case of optical sensors, when passing through suitable sensors splits. The difference between optical and capaciti
35、ve sensors in detecting defects of raw silk is shown in Annex B.The evenness of raw silk, soaked or unsoaked, is evaluated and counted on the basis of variation of electric capacity only in capacitive sensors.The measurements are performed on individual yarn.5 Apparatus5.1 GeneralThe electronic test
36、er for raw silk can be single spindle or multi-spindle, and it comprises the measurement module consisting of capacitive and optical testers, signal processing module, and framework.5.2 Measurement module.5.2.1 Capacitive tester, used to test slub, thick place, thin place, SIE, and evenness of raw s
37、ilk, with no more than 5 % of testing precision and 1 mm of minimum yarn advancement length.2 ISO 2014 All rights reservedBS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)5.2.2 Optical tester, used to test slub, thick place, thin place, and SIE, with no more than 5 % of testing precision, 1 mm of minimum yarn adva
38、ncement length and at least two orthogonal rays.5.3 Signal processing module, capable ofa) controlling the testing procedure and processing the output signal,b) computing and classifying the defects according to their definition, and outputting the detailed testing data from each individual spindle
39、and that from all the spindles of the tester using statistical charts and tables,c) calculating evenness indices at 1 cm, 5 m, and 50 m lengths as CVeven%, CV5m%, and CV50m%, and outputting the detailed testing data from each individual spindle and that from all the spindles of the tester using stat
40、istical charts and tables, andd) calculating CVbetween%.5.4 Framework.5.4.1 Traction system, capable of carrying the yarn through the testing device at a constant speed without stretching or damaging it.5.4.2 Winding device, equipped with a yarn-guiding device.5.4.3 Yarn-guiding device, capable of e
41、nsuring the steady motion of the yarn with a fixed yarn traverse length.The abnormal signal caused by the vibration or jump of the tested yarn shall not surpass 10 % of the average signal.6 Atmospheres for conditioning and testingAtmospheres used for conditioning and testing shall be in accordance w
42、ith ISO 139. All the samples shall be conditioned for a minimum of 12 h before testing and remain conditioned during testing.7 Lot formation and sampling7.1 Lot formationA lot consists of 600 kg of raw silk of the same nominal size from the same manufacturer. Each lot consists of 10 bales (about 60
43、kilograms per bale) or 20 cartons (about 30 kilograms per carton), reeled by the same reeling apparatus. In case of less than 10 bales or 20 cartons, regard them as one lot.7.2 Sampling7.2.1 Raw silk in skeinRandomly take 12 skeins from the side, 8 skeins from the centre, and 4 skeins from the corne
44、r of the silk bundles in one lot, i.e. 24 skeins in total. Take no more than 1 skein from each silk bundle.7.2.2 Raw silk on coneTake 12 cones randomly from one lot. Take no more than 1 cone from each carton. ISO 2014 All rights reserved 3BS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)8 Laboratory sample prepara
45、tion8.1 Raw silk in skein8.1.1 Winding devicea) winder, for winding silk samples;b) bobbins or cones, for collecting silk samples from the skeins.8.1.2 Setting parametersa) winding speed: (140 to 200) m/min 6 m/min;b) winding tension: (0,5 0,1) cN/dtex or (0,5 0,1) g/denier.8.1.3 Number of samplesPr
46、epare test samples from each of the 24 skeins sampled (see 7.2.1) by winding 7,5 km of yarn from each of two skeins onto 12 bobbins so that the total length of each bobbin is 15 km. Take the 7,5 km sample from each skein as specified in Table 1.Table 1 Rules for samplingNumber of skeins Sampling pos
47、ition10 Surface end10 Inside end2 Region representing the quarter closest to the surface end2 Region representing the quarter closest to the inside end8.2 Raw silk on coneTest the 12 sampled cones (see 7.2.2) directly without further preparation.8.3 Soaked silk8.3.1 Prepare the laboratory samples of
48、 soaked silk according to Annex C.8.3.2 Prepare the soaked silk samples as described in 8.1.The soaked condition should be described in the test report.NOTE Soaked silk samples can also be obtained from a supplier.8.4 Sampling lengthThe total sampling length for a lot shall be no less than 150 km an
49、d that of the test sample on each bobbin or cone shall be no less than 12,5 km.9 Setting9.1 Setting of the apparatus4 ISO 2014 All rights reservedBS ISO 15625:2014ISO 15625:2014(E)9.1.1 Set a constant winding speed at (600 30) m/min for raw silk and (1 000 50) m/min for soaked silk, and ensure the advancement of the yarn into the sensor split.NOTE Other constant speeds can be used by agreement between the concerned parties, then record in the test report.9.1.2 Set a pre-tension at (0,20 0,05) cN/dtex or g/denier to minimize
