1、BSI Standards PublicationBS ISO 18596:2015Test method for staple lengthof dehaired cashmere Hand-arranging methodBS ISO 18596:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of ISO 18596:2015.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommi
2、ttee TCI/24, Physical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards I
3、nstitution 2015. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 83694 7ICS 59.060.10Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 July 2015.Amendments i
4、ssued since publicationDate Text affectedBS ISO 18596:2015 ISO 2015Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere Hand-arranging methodMthode dessai de la longueur de fibre du cachemire pil Mthode dorganisation la mainINTERNATIONAL STANDARDISO18596First edition2015-07-15Reference numberISO 18596
5、:2015(E)BS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)ii ISO 2015 All rights reservedCOPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT ISO 2015, Published in SwitzerlandAll rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mech
6、anical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below or ISOs member body in the country of the requester.ISO copyright officeCh. de Blandonnet 8 CP 401CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva, Swi
7、tzerlandTel. +41 22 749 01 11Fax +41 22 749 09 47copyrightiso.orgwww.iso.orgBS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)Foreword iv1 Scope . 12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions . 14 Principle 15 Apparatus . 16 Sample preparation . 27 Test procedure 27.1 Plotting . 38 Calculations and expression o
8、f results 48.1 Hand-arranging staple length 48.2 Short fibre content . 48.3 Test result 49 Test report . 4Annex A (informative) Example of calculations made to obtain the hand-arranging staple length 6 ISO 2015 All rights reserved iiiContents PageBS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)ForewordISO (the In
9、ternational Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee h
10、as been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical
11、 standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in ac
12、cordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Deta
13、ils of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not constitute an en
14、dorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary informationThe committee resp
15、onsible for this document is ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres and yarns.iv ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS ISO 18596:2015INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 18596:2015(E)Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere Hand-arranging method1 ScopeThis International Standard specifies a test m
16、ethod for a staple length of dehaired cashmere by a hand-arranging method.This International Standard is also applicable to dehaired camel, dehaired yak, etc.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its
17、application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing3 Terms and definitionsFor the purpose of this document, the
18、following terms and definitions apply.3.1dehaired cashmerecashmere which has been scoured and dehaired3.2hand-arranging staple lengthaverage fibre length measured on the length distribution graph which is arranged uniformly with fibres3.3short fibre contentnumber of fibres equal to or less than 15 m
19、m in length as a percentage of the total number of fibres4 PrincipleFibres are uniformly arranged onto a length distribution graph on a flannelette board. The length values are measured at 10 mm intervals. The weighted mean of these length values is called the hand-arranging staple length.5 Apparatu
20、s5.1 Flannelette board, covered with black knit flannelette (polyester fibres, 150 g/m2to 250 g/m2fabric weight).5.2 Tweezers.5.3 Steel plate rulers, with the minimum scale of 0,5 mm.5.4 Coordinate papers, with the minimum scale of 1 mm. ISO 2015 All rights reserved 1BS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(
21、E)6 Sample preparation6.1 Lot sample6.1.1 Proportion and amountRandomly draw samples from each bale if the total number of bales in the lot is five or fewer.If the number of bales in the lot exceeds five bales, draw samples from 20 % of the additional number of bales. Quantities less than one bale a
22、re counted as one bale. The total mass of the lot sample shall not be less than 300 g.6.1.2 SamplingRandomly select and draw samples from the top, middle and bottom positions, deeper than 15 cm from the outermost bale surface.6.2 Laboratory sampleSpread out the lot sample on the test table and blend
23、 it by hand into a homogeneous state. Then divide it into two equal parts. One is the laboratory sample, and the other is retained as a spare.6.3 Test specimenRandomly draw 0,09 g to 0,15 g of fibres from each side of the laboratory sample at different positions (from no fewer than 40 positions). Mi
24、x these fibres well, then divide them into three equal parts. Two parts are used in parallel tests, the third is retained as a spare test specimen.6.4 Atmospheres for conditioning and testingAtmospheres used for conditioning and testing shall be in accordance with ISO 139. All the samples shall be c
25、onditioned for a minimum of 24 h immediately before testing and remain conditioned during testing.7 Test procedure7.1 Layout of the fibre7.1.1 Repeatedly sort the test specimen by hand into a natural neat bundle aligned at one end.7.1.2 While holding the aligned end of the specimen with one hand, pl
26、ace the other end on the flannelette board and press by thumb. Slowly draw an equivalent amount of fibres out of the fibre bundle, then successively arrange the fibres from long to short on the flannelette board keeping one end aligned.7.1.3 After all the fibres have been pulled out completely, take
27、 all the fibres with tweezers and re-sort the sample into a fibre bundle again. Repeat the preceding operations (not more than five times) until all the fibres are uniformly arranged into a length distribution graph whose bottom margin is 250 mm 10 mm, the fibres are naturally parallel to each other
28、 and the distributions thickness is uniform as shown in Figure 1.2 ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)Dimensions in millimetresKeyX abscissaY fibre lengthFigure 1 Length distribution graph7.1 PlottingTakethe bottom margin as the abscissa, and the fibre length as the ordina
29、te as shown in Figure 1. Mark the abscissa x1, x2, , xi, , xn-1at 10 mm intervals from the origin. If the interval of the last group is not more than 10 mm, mark the terminal points abscissa as xn.Measure the corresponding length L1, L2, , Li, , Lnof each groups midpoint with steel plate rulers. Mar
30、k all the points on the coordinate papers. The base line of length distribution graph is xnmm. ISO 2015 All rights reserved 3BS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)8 Calculations and expression of results8.1 Hand-arranging staple lengthCalculate the hand-arranging staple length from Formula (1), expresse
31、d in integer:LLxxLxinninnn=+()=10111(1)whereL is the hand-arranging staple length, expressed in millimetres (mm);Liis the staple length corresponding to different distances, expressed in millimetres (mm);xnis the terminal point s abscissa value corresponding to the last length group, expressed in mi
32、llimetres (mm);xn-1is the starting points abscissa value corresponding to the last length group, expressed in millimetres (mm);Lnis the staple length corresponding to the last length groups midpoint, expressed in millime-tres (mm).8.2 Short fibre contentCalculate the short fibre content from Formula
33、 (2), rounded to one decimal place:Dxxxnsn=100% (2)whereD is the short fibre content, expressed as a percentage (%);xnis the terminal points abscissa value corresponding to the last length group, expressed in millimetres (mm);xsis the abscissa corresponding to the staple length of 15 mm, expressed i
34、n millimetres (mm).8.3 Test resultTake the average of the two test specimens value as the test result.When the absolute value of the difference between the two specimens is more than 2 mm, the third specimen shall be tested. The final test result is the mean value of the three specimens.9 Test repor
35、tThe test report shall contain at least the following information:a) a reference to this International Standard, i.e. ISO 18596;b) the description of the samples;c) the standard atmosphere for conditioning and testing;4 ISO 2015 All rights reservedBS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)d) testing results
36、, including hand-arranging staple length, short fibre content;e) deviation from this International Standard, if any;f) anything unusual during the testing;g) testing date. ISO 2015 All rights reserved 5BS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)Annex A (informative) Example of calculations made to obtain the
37、 hand-arranging staple lengthA.1 Length distribution graphDimensions in millimetresKeyX abscissaY fibre lengthFigure A.1 Example of a length distribution graphAs shown in Figure A.1, mark the abscissa (x1= 10, x2= 20, x3= 30, x4= 40, , x22= 220, x23= 230, x24= 240) at 10 mm intervals from the origin
38、. Mark the terminal points abscissa (x25= 247).Measure the corresponding length (L1= 74, L2= 63, L3= 56, L4= 51, , L23= 9, L24= 7, L25= 5) of each groups midpoint (5, 15, 25, 35, , 225, 235, 243,5) with steel plate rulers. The base line of the length distribution graph is 247 mm.6 ISO 2015 All right
39、s reservedBS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E)A.2 Calculations of the hand-arranging staple lengthLLxxLxinninnn=+()=+ =1010 75 63 56 51 97 247111(midhorizellipsis 2240 524732)= mm(A.1) ISO 2015 All rights reserved 7BS ISO 18596:2015ISO 18596:2015(E) ISO 2015 All rights reservedICS 59.060.10Price based
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