1、March 2014 Translation by DIN-Sprachendienst.English price group 11No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS
2、97.220.40!%,Sf“2094867www.din.deDDIN EN 12276Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and test methods;English version EN 12276:2013,English translation of DIN EN 12276:2014-03Bergsteigerausrstung Klemmgerte Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassun
3、g EN 12276:2013,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN 12276:2014-03Equipement dalpinisme et descalade Coinceurs mcaniques Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 12276:2013,Traduction anglaise de DIN EN 12276:2014-03SupersedesDIN EN 12276:1998-11See start of applicationwww.beuth.deDocume
4、nt comprises 17 pagesIn case of doubt, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.02.14DIN EN 12276:2014-03 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. Start of application The start of application of this standard is 2014-03-01. National foreword This standard includes safety requi
5、rements within the meaning of the Produktsicherheitsgesetz (ProdSG) (German Product Safety Act). This document (EN 12276:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, Working Group WG 5 “Mountaineering and climbing equ
6、ipment” (Secretariat: DIN, Germany). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the Normenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert, Working Committee NA 112-04-05 AA Bergsteigerausrstung. Where this standard has been identified by the Ausschuss fr Produktsicherheit (German Committee for Pr
7、oduct Safety) and reference to it has been published in the Gemeinsames Ministerialblatt (German Joint Ministerial Gazette) by the Bundesanstalt fr Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (BAuA) (German Federal Institute for Occupational Safety and Health), it is to be presumed that frictional anchors whic
8、h comply with this standard fulfil the relevant health and safety requirements. Where they comply with the provisions laid down in Section 5 of the Product Safety Act, such products may then be marked with the GS mark (German “safety tested” mark) as awarded to the manufacturer by an authorized “GS
9、organization”. Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 12276:1998-11 as follows: a) strength has been subdivided into holding force and passive strength; b) test procedures for testing holding force and passive strength have been added; c) pictograms for the marking of holding force and passive
10、 strength have been added; d) a pictogram for reading the manufacturers information has been added. Previous editions DIN 33948: 1988-07 DIN EN 12276: 1998-11 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 12276 November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 12276:1998English Version Mountaineering
11、 equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Coinceurs mcaniques - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Klemmgerte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN o
12、n 28 September 2013. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards
13、 may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notifi
14、ed to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Icel
15、and, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Manag
16、ement Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12276:2013 EEN 12276:2013 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and definitions .4 4 Requireme
17、nts .5 4.1 Design .5 4.2 Strength 5 5 Test methods 5 5.1 Test samples 5 5.2 Apparatus for strength test 5 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions .7 5.4 Procedure .8 6 Marking .9 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer 10 Annex A (informative) Protection provided by Frictional Anchors . 12 Annex B (
18、informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 Bibliography . 15 DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 12276:2013) has been prepare
19、d by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by M
20、ay 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent righ
21、ts. This document supersedes EN 12276:1998. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which
22、is an integral part of this document. In relation to EN 12276:1998 the following main amendments have been made: a) the passive strength has been added; b) addition of test procedure for testing holding force and passive strength; c) addition of pictograms for holding force and passive strength for
23、the marking; d) addition of a pictogram for reading the manufacturers information. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Repu
24、blic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. DIN
25、EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and
26、 are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods EN ISO 139, Textiles
27、- Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139) ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipment - Registered symbols 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 frictional anchor device, capable of self-expansion, which can
28、 be placed in a parallel-sided crack in the rock, and which, due to friction between the device and the rock, can withstand a load Note 1 to entry: See Annex A for protection provided by frictional anchors. 3.2 means of attachment part of the frictional anchor which allows the attachment of a connec
29、tor Note 1 to entry: Applies to connectors in accordance with EN 12275. 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause the frictional anchor, or its means of attachment, to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus and determined in the strength test in accordance with 5.4.2.2 3.4 passive strengt
30、h force necessary to cause the frictional anchor, or its means of attachment, to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus and determined in the strength test in accordance with 5.4.2.3 3.5 operational range range of the widths within which the manufacturer ensures the holding force will be a
31、t least the minimum holding force marked on the frictional anchor DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 5 4 Requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Frictional anchors shall be fitted with a means of attachment to a connector. If the means of attachment is sewn, the stitching shall contrast in colour or surfa
32、ce appearance. If the mean of attachment is a tape, it shall comply with stability requirements of EN 565. 4.1.2 The means of attachment shall be large enough to accommodate a pin with a diameter of 15 mm. 4.1.3 All edges of the frictional anchor and the means of attachment that may come into contac
33、t with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength 4.2.1 Holding force When tested in accordance with 5.4.2.2, the holding force shall be at least the one marked on the frictional anchor and not be less than 5,0 kN. 4.2.2 Passive strength (if claimed) When tested in accor
34、dance with 5.4.2.3, the passive strength shall be at least the one marked on the frictional anchor and not be less than 5,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples At least two frictional anchors shall be provided for testing; at least three friction anchors, if passive strength is claimed. If a frictio
35、nal anchor is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The apparatus consists of two parallel, rigid steel supporting jaws for the adjustable parts of the frictional anchor and of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 0,1) mm for the mea
36、ns of attachment; see Figure 2. The static friction between the supporting jaws and the frictional anchor shall be great enough to prevent the frictional anchor from slipping through at the test load, but the maximal surface roughness of Rmaxshall not exceed 500 m. The surface of the loading bar sha
37、ll have an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra= 0,8 m and a maximal surface roughness of Rmax= 6,3 m. There are no surface roughness requirements for the loading bar when the means of attachment is other than textile material. 5.2.2 Adjustment The distance s between the supporting jaws
38、shall be according to the following formulae: DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 6 Position 1: s1= bmin+ (bmax- bmin)/4 (1) Position 2: s2= bmin+ (bmax- bmin) (2) where bminis the minimum adjustable width, see Figure 1; bmaxis the maximum adjustable width, see Figure 1. If the range between bmax
39、and bminis less than 5 mm, only one position according to the following formula shall be adjusted: Position 3: s3= bmin+ (bmax- bmin)/2 (3) Position 3 is also used for passive strength test for all frictional anchors, if claimed. Key bminminimum adjustable width bmaxmaximum adjustable width Figure 1
40、 Example of frictional anchors DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 7 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 loading bar 2 supporting jaws 3 frictional anchor 4 means of attachment s distance between supporting jaws F applied Force Figure 2 Layout and adjustment of apparatus test of holding force 5.3 Con
41、ditioning and test conditions For the strength test according to 5.4.2, condition frictional anchors with textile means of attachment in accordance with EN ISO 139. Carry out the strength test at a temperature of (23 5) C. DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 8 For frictional anchors with textile
42、means of attachment, start the strength test within 5 min of removing them from the conditioning atmosphere. 5.4 Procedure 5.4.1 Design 5.4.1.1 Check by visual examination that the requirements according to 4.1.1 are met. 5.4.1.2 Test the unloaded eye of the means of attachment in accordance with 4.
43、1.2, with a pin of (15 0,1) mm diameter. 5.4.1.3 Check by visual examination and handling that the requirements according to 4.1.3 are met. 5.4.2 Strength 5.4.2.1 Rate of loading of 20 mm to 50 mm per minute if the frictional anchor does not contain textile elements; of 50 mm to 200 mm per minute if
44、 the frictional anchor contains a textile element, subjected to stress during the test. 5.4.2.2 Holding force 5.4.2.2.1 Load at least one test sample in each of positions 1 and 2, or, if the range between bmaxand bminis less than 5 mm, load at least one test sample in position 3, see Figure 2. 5.4.2
45、.2.2 Apply a load to the means of attachment until the frictional anchor or its means of attachment break or until the frictional anchor is pulled through the apparatus. 5.4.2.3 Passive strength (if claimed) 5.4.2.3.1 Place a test sample in position 3, in its fully extended position, centrally betwe
46、en the jaws of the test apparatus, see Figure 3. 5.4.2.3.2 Apply a load to the means of attachment until the frictional anchor or its means of attachment break or until the frictional anchor is pulled through the apparatus. DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 9 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 loa
47、ding bar 2 supporting jaws 3 frictional anchor s3distance between supporting jaws F applied force Figure 3 Layout and adjustment of apparatus test of passive strength 6 Marking Frictional anchors shall be marked clearly, indelibly and durably with at least the following information: a) name of the m
48、anufacturer or its authorized representative, 1; b) the minimum holding force in “kN”, which the manufacturer ensures over the operational range of the device, as explained in 7e). Also, if passive strength is claimed, the passive strength in kN which the manufacturer ensures. The strength values sh
49、all be expressed as whole numbers of kN. If passive DIN EN 12276:2014-03 EN 12276:2013 (E) 10 strength is claimed, pictograms for holding force and passive strength shall be used (see Figures 4 and 5); Figure 4 Pictogram for holding force Figure 5 Pictogram for passive strength c) graphical symbol, which advises the user to read the information given by the manufacturer (see Figure 6); Figure 6 Graphical symbol (according to ISO 7000, Symbol No. 1641) d) year of manufacture, if the product contains non-metalli
