1、INCH-POUND MIL-DTL- 32231 15 NOVEMBER 2006 DETAIL SPECIFICATION FOR CLOTH, POLYESTER/COTTON This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE. 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a polyester/cotton herringbone cloth tr
2、eated with durable press and soil release finishes. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional i
3、nformation or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements of documents cited in Sections 3 and 4 of this specification whether or not they are listed. 2.2 Government documents. 2.2.
4、1 Specifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2). FEDERAL STANDARDS FED-STD
5、-4 - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections COMMERCIAL ITEMS DESCRIPTIONS A-A-50199 - Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton or Polyester Covered (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or http:/assist.daps.dla.mil or from the Standardization Document Order Desk,
6、700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, ATTN: DSCP Standardization Team, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092. Since c
7、ontact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of the address information using Acquisition Streamlining and Standardization Information Systems (ASSIST) online database http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/. AMSC N/A FSC 8305 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permi
8、tted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32231 2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified. The issues are those cited in the
9、 solicitation or contract. FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION 16CFR Part 303 - Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Copies are available online at www.ftc.gov or from the Federal Trade Commission, 600 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC 20580-0001.) (Copies of docum
10、ents required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless ot
11、herwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract (see 6.2). AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC-8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC-15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC-16 - Colorfastness to
12、 Light AATCC-20 - Fiber Analysis: Qualitative AATCC-20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantative AATCC-61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated AATCC-81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles AATCC-117 - Colorfastness to Dry Heat (Excluding Pressing) AATCC-124 - Appearance of
13、 Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings AATCC-130 - Soil Release; Oily Stain Release Method AATCC-135 - Dimensional Change of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, A
14、ATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale Rating AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles AATCC Stain Release Replicas (Copies of documents are available for purchase on line at www.aatcc.org or from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.
15、O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Copies are available for purchase online at http:/www.asq.org or from the American Society for Quality, 600 North Plankinton Avenue, Milwauk
16、ee, WI 53203.) ASTM INTERNATIONAL ASTM-D-276 - Identification of Fibers in Textiles 2Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32231 ASTM-D-629 - Quantitative Analysis of Textiles ASTM-D-1424 - Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Fallin
17、g-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus ASTM D 1683 - Failure in Seams of Woven Fabrics ASTM-D-3511 - Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surfaces Changes of Textile Fabrics Brush Pilling Tester Method ASTM-D-3775 - Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM-D-3776 - Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric, Opt
18、ion C ASTM-D-5034 - Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) G-E or GT ASTM Photographic Rating Standard (Copies of documents are available for purchase on line at www.astm.org or from ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19426-2959.) OTHER PUBLICATION
19、S Repeat Insult Patch Test Modified Draize Procedure - Principles and Methods of Toxicology (4thEdition), A. Wallace Hayes (editor) pp 1057-1060, 2001 (Copies are available from Taylor and Francis, Philadelphia, PA or http:/www.taylorandfrancis.co.uk/.) (Copies of documents required by contractors i
20、n connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes preced
21、ence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS. 3.1 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2 and 6.3). 3.2 Standard sample. The finishe
22、d cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and appearance, and shall, unless otherwise indicated, be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4). 3.3 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable ma
23、terials. Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible, provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 3.3.1 Fiber content. 3.3.1.1 Polyest
24、er. The fiber shall be an environmentally acceptable polyethylene terephthalate. 3.3.1.2 Cotton. The cotton shall be carded and combed. 3.3.2 Yarns. All yarns shall be a blend of polyester and cotton, drawn and spun into single 3Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wi
25、thout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32231 yarns for both the warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain 65 + 5 percent polyester with the remaining percentage cotton, based on the dry weight of the desized specimen, when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.4 Color. The color of the dyed and finis
26、hed cloth shall be Army Gray 510 and shall match the standard sample. 3.4.1 Labile sulfur. Dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid shall not be used. The dyestuff shall be chosen and applied so that they dyed and finished cloth shall contain no more labi
27、le sulfur than shown by the standard sample. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed and finished cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.4.2 Visual shade matching. The color and appearance of the finished cloth shall match the sta
28、ndard sample when viewed using AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9, with source simulating artificial daylight D75 illuminant with a color temperature of 7500 + 2000K illumination of 100 + 20 foot candles, and shall be a good match to the standard sample under incandescent lamplight at 2856 + 2000K, when t
29、ested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.4.3 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall conform to the colorfastness requirements specified in Table I, when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Table I. Colorfastness requirements. Color Evaluation Laundering (3 cycles) (min) 1/ Light (40 hours or 170 KJ (min) 2/ Perspi
30、ration (acid and alkaline) (min) 1/ Crocking (min) 3/ Gray 510 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.5 1/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change and AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, Gray Scale for Staining. 2/ Rated using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change. 3/ Rate
31、d using the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale. 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table II, when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Table II. Physical requirements Characteristic Requirement Weight, oz/sq yd 5
32、.0 + 0.25 Yarns per inch, min. Warp Filling 135 65 Breaking strength (pounds), min.Warp Filling 100 50 Tearing strength (pounds), min. Warp Filling 4.0 4.0 4Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32231 3.5.1 Weave. The weave shall be
33、 a 2 x 2 twill drawn on 4 harnesses with a 4 pick repeat (see figure 1). 3.5.2 Width. For government procurements only, the width of the finished cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and shall be the minimum acceptable width inclusive of the selvage. 3.6. Finish. The cloth shall be scoured, singed,
34、 stabilized, and bleached when required to result in a smooth and lustrous finish equal in character to that of the standard sample. In addition, the cloth shall be given an approved durable press (see 6.6) and soil release finish. 3.6.1 Durable press finish. The cloth shall be given an approved dur
35、able press treatment (see 6.6) and shall be processed and cured to meet the requirements of this document when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.6.2 Soil release finish. The soil release finish of the finished cloth shall show a rating of not less than 5 using the AATCC stain release replica when test
36、ed a specified in 4.4.5. 3.7 Nonfibrous material. The starch and protein content, including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material, prior to application of the durable press treatment shall not exceed 2.0 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.8 Fabric appearance rating. The finished cl
37、oth shall have an appearance rating of not less than SA-3.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.9 Dimensional stability. The finished and cured cloth shall have dimensional changes of not more than 2.0 percent in either the warp or filling direction when tested as specified in 4.4.5. The preshrinki
38、ng process used shall not be identified by name or trademark either on the cloth, ticket or package. 3.10 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 or more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.11 Pilling. The pilling of the finished cloth shall sh
39、ow a rating of not more than 3.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.12 Seam efficiency. The finished cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 85 percent when tested as specified in 4.4.5. 3.13 Length and put-up. For Government procurements only, unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the
40、 cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards. Each length shall be put-up on full width rolls as specified in 5.1. 3.14 Fiber Identification. Each roll of finished cloth shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under
41、the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. 3.14.1 Marking. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by applying a stamping on that side of the cloth with the word “FACE” at each end of the piece. 3.15 Toxicity. The finished fabric shall not present a health hazard and shall show compatibil
42、ity with prolonged direct skin contact when tested as specified in 4.4.5. Chemicals 5Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-32231 recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as human carcinogens shall not be used. 3.16 Wo
43、rkmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality of product established by this purchase description. The demerit points per 100 square yards when calculated as specified in Section 4 shall not exceed the applicable established maximum point values. 4. VERIFICATION 4.1 Classification of in
44、spections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.2). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3). 4.2 First article inspection. A first article, submitted in accordance with 3.1, shall be inspected, examined for appearance, color and finis
45、hed defects and tested for the characteristics as specified in Table III. 4.3 Conformance inspection. Conformance inspection shall include the examination of 4.4 and the tests of 4.5, as applicable. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 and with quality acceptan
46、ce limits as specified in the contract and/or order, except where otherwise indicated (see 6.2). 4.3.1 Component and material inspection. Unless otherwise specified, all inspections shall be performed in accordance with all the requirements of referenced documents, unless otherwise excluded, amended
47、, modified or qualified in this specification or applicable procurement documents. 4.4 End item examination. 4.4.1 Yard by yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined yard-by-yard. When the total yardage in the roll does not exceed 100 yards, the entire yardage in the roll shall be e
48、xamined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards, only 100 yards shall be examined. All defects, as defined in section I of FED-STD-4, that are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.1.1, except that only th
49、ose slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on the Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.5), “D” or 3-1/2” as applicable for slubs and “C” for knots, shall be scored and coarse yarn shall only be scored as a defect when the coarse yarn is twice the diameter of the normal yarn used in the fabric. No linear yard (increments of 1 yard on the measuring device of the inspection machine) from any o
