1、 INCH-POUND MIL-DTL-823L 13 April 205 SUPERSEDING MIL-C823K 21 September 1990 DETAIL SPECIFICATION CLOTH, SERGE, WOOL, WOOL AND NYLON, POLYESTER AND WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This document covers the
2、requirements for wool, wool and nylon, and polyester and wool serge cloth. 1.2 Classification. The cloth should be of the following types and classes as specified (see 6.2 and 6.5): Comments, suggestions, or questions on this document should be addressed to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Cloth
3、ing and Textiles Directorate, ATTN: DSCP-CRDD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Bldg. 6D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5092, or emailed to http:/ct.dscp.dla.mil. Since contact information can change, you may want to verify the currency of this address information using the ASSIST Online database at http:/assist.daps.d
4、la.mil. AMSC N/A FSC 8305 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L Type I - Wool Class 1 - 18 ounce Class 2 - 16 ounce Class 3 - 16 ounce Class 5 - 15 ounce Class 7 - 12 ounce Class 8 - 12 ounce Type II - Wool and Nylon Class 1 -
5、18 ounce Class 2 - 16 ounce Type III - Polyester and Wool Class 1 - 14 ounce Class 2 - 12 ounce Class 3 - 11.3 ounce Class 4 - 9.5 ounce 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3, 4, or 5 of this specification. This section does not include
6、 documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all the specified requirements documents cited in sections 3, 4, o
7、r 5 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. 2.2 Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these doc
8、uments are those cited in the solicitation or contract. DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE SPECIFICATIONS MIL-C-43665 - Cloth, Wool: Mothproofing Treatment of 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARDS MIL-STD-1
9、29 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-655 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cloth, Wool, Worsted and Wool Blends (Copies of these documents are available online at http:/assist.daps.dla.mil/quicksearch/ or from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Ph
10、iladelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation or contract. GOV
11、ERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE Rules and Regulations under the Wool Products Labeling Act (Copies of this document may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE (USDA) Methods of Test for Grades of Wool Top * (Co
12、pies of this document may be obtained from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, USDA Marketing Service Information Office, Room 3510-S, P.O. Box 96456, Washington, DC 20090-6456.) 2.3 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unl
13、ess otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those cited in the solicitation or contract. ASTM INTERNATIONAL ASTM D3511 - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics Brush Pilling Tester ASTM D3775 - Standard Test Method for Fabric C
14、ount of Woven Fabric ASTM D3776 - Standard Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics ASTM D5034 - Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (Copies of these documents are available from http:/www.astm.org/ or ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West C
15、onshohocken, PA 19428-2959.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS AATCC 8 - Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method AATCC 15 - Colorfastness to Perspiration A
16、ATCC 16 - Colorfastness to Light AATCC 20A - Fiber Analysis: Quantitative AATCC 81 - pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles AATCC 99 - Dimensional Changes of Woven or Knitted Textiles: Relaxation AATCC 117 - Colorfastness to Heat; Dry (Excluding Pressing) AATCC 132 - Colorfastness to Dryclea
17、ning (Copies of these documents are available from http:/www.aatcc.org/ or American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27705-2215.) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR QUALITY CONTROL ASQC Z1.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attribu
18、tes (Copies of this document are available from http:/www.asqc.org/ or American Society for Quality Control (ASQC), P.O. Box 3005, 611 East Wisconsin Avenue, Milwaukee, WI 53201-4606.) 2.4 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited here
19、in, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article. When specified, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2 and 6.3) 3.
20、2 Standard sample. The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade, finish, colorfastness, and appearance and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced (see 6.4). 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Wool. The woo
21、l component of the cloth shall be not lower than the grades specified below: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L Types I and II Class 1 (18 oz.) - 60s U.S. Standard Class 2 (16 oz.) - 60s U.S. Standard Class 3 (16 oz.) - 64
22、s U.S. Standard Class 5 (15 oz.) - 62s U.S. Standard Class 7 (12 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard Class 8 (12 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard Type III Class 1 (14 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard Class 2 (12 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard Class 3 (11.3 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard Class 4 (9.5 oz.) - 64s U.S. Standard 3.3.1.1 Type
23、I. The wool top for Type I shall be fleece wool, pulled wool, or an combination thereof not lower in grade than specified in 3.3.1 and shall be of a suitable staple length to meet the requirements of this document. The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products shall be prohibit
24、ed (see 4.3.2). 3.3.1.2 Type II. The blend for Type II shall consist of fleece wool, pulled wool, or any combination thereof not lower in grade than specified in 3.3.1 and nylon top or cut tow (see 6.2). Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the blend shall be in such proportion that the finished cl
25、oth shall contain between 80 to 85 percent wool with the remaining percentage of nylon fiber, based on the oven-dried weight when tested as specified in 4.3.2. The nylon fibers shall be of a suitable denier and the wool and nylon fibers of suitable length the meet the requirements of this document.
26、The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products and nylon fiber waste shall be prohibited (see 4.3.2). 3.3.1.3 Type III. The blend for Type III shall consist of fleece wool, pulled wool, or any other combination thereof not lower in grade than specified in 3.3.1 and polyester top
27、 or cut tow (see 6.2). The polyester stock shall be semi-dull and the minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches. The denier shall be suitable to blend adequately with the specified wool grade and meet the requirements of this document. Wool yarns shall be spun on the long staple worsted system.
28、 Minimum average fiber length shall be 3 inches. The use of laps, noils, or any other wool manufacturing by-products and polyester fiber waste shall be prohibited (see 4.3.2). The finished cloth shall consist of a polyester fiber percentage of 55 minimum and 60 maximum and a minimum wool fiber perce
29、ntage of 40 based on the oven-dried weight when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L 3.3.2 Yarn. The yarn for the warp and filling shall be spun from combed top. The yarn ply shall be as specifi
30、ed under physical requirements (see 3.5). To prevent edges of all types of cloth from building up when rolled, 2-ply yarns used in the selvage may be made of a finer count than those used in the body of the cloth. 3.4 Color. The color shall be as specified (see 6.2). The color of the finished cloth
31、shall match the standard sample (see 6.4). The color shall be applied in stock or top form. Speck dyeing shall be prohibited. When Army Green 44 is specified, the color shall be produced by blending dyed wool top (see 6.6). When Army Green 489 is specified, the color shall be produced by blended dye
32、d wool top and dyed polyester fiber (see 6.5). 3.4.1 Mothproofing. Mothproofing of the wool material shall be in accordance with MIL-C-43665. It shall be accomplished during stock or top dyeing and tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.4.2 Shade matching. The color of the finished cloth shall match the st
33、andard sample when viewed under filtered tungsten lamps, which approximate artificial daylight having a correlated color temperature of 7500 + 200 Kelvin (K), with illumination of 100 + 20 foot-candles, and shall be a good match to the sample under incandescent lamplight at 2300 + 200 K. 3.4.3 Color
34、fastness. The finished cloth shall show fastness to wet drycleaning, perspiration and light (after 80 AATCC Fading Units) equal to or better than the standard sample or equal to or better than a rating of “good (3.0)” when no standard sample is available. In addition, the Type III polyester and wool
35、 cloth shall show “good (3.0)” fastness to dry heat (sublimation). The finished cloth shall show fastness to crocking equal to or better than the standard sample or shall have an AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale rating of not lower 3.5 when no standard sample is available. Testing shall be as spec
36、ified in 4.3.4. 3.5 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the requirements specified in Table I and when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L TABLE I. Physical requirements.
37、 Type Class Weight oz./ linear yd. (min.) 1/ Wool Std. Yarn Ply Yarns per inch (min.) Breaking strength (min.) Dimensional Stability (min.) Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp FillingLbs. Lbs. Pct. Pct. I 1 18.0 60s 2 2 68 54 110 100 4.0 2.5 I 2 16.0 60s 2 1 70 54 100 80 4.0 2.5 I 3 16.0 64s
38、 2 2 68 64 100 90 4.0 3.0 I 5 15.0 62s 2 2 70 58 100 80 5.0 3.0 I 7 12.0 64s 2 2 74 70 80 70 5.0 3.0 I 8 12.0 64s 2 2 70 62 80 70 5.0 3.0 II 1 18.0 60s 2 1 66 52 135 120 4.0 2.5 II 2 16.0 60s 2 1 70 54 120 110 4.0 2.5 III 1 14.0 64s 2 1 78 55 175 130 4.0 3.0 III 2 12.0 64s 2 2 74 68 150 125 4.0 3.0
39、III 3 11.3 12.3 (max.) 64s 2 2 78 68 140 125 2.0 2.0 III 4 9.5 64s 2 2 78 66 115 85 3.0 2.5 1/ Weight is based on a 56 inch width. 3.5.1 Width. The width of all types and classes of finished cloth shall be a minimum of 60 inches exclusive of selvage or tuck-in when woven on Sulzer-type looms. 3.5.2
40、Weave. The weave for all types and classes of finished cloth shall be a 2 up and 2 down, 4 harness right twill (see 4.3.4). 3.6 Finish and final appearance. The cloth shall be fulled, sheared, and finished to provide stability of both color and finish (see 6.7). The type and characteristic of finish
41、 shall conform to that shown by the standard sample. 3.6.1 Pilling. The Type III cloth shall be finished to show no more pilling than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.6.2 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be between 5.5 and 8.5 inclusive when t
42、ested as specified in 4.3.4. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L 3.7 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 50 yards. Each length shal
43、l be put-up on full width rolls in accordance with the industrys standard practice. 3.8 Wool content. The finished Type I cloth shall contain not less than 95 percent wool based on the dry weight of the specimen when tested as specified in 4.3.4. 3.9 Wool content label. Cloth manufactured under this
44、 document shall be labeled in accordance with the Wool Products Labeling Act. 3.10 Marking. The back of the cloth shall be marked “BACK” at both ends of each roll with letters not less than 1/2 inch in height (see 4.3.3.5). The marking shall be clearly legible in any indelible marking used commercia
45、lly. When defects appear in the cloth, each defect shall be marked with a 1 to 1-1/2 inch long string. The string shall be sewn into the selvage near the defect. A red string shall represent a three-or-four point defect and a white string will represent a one-or-two point defect (see 4.3.3). In addi
46、tion to any special markings required, shipments shall be marked in accordance with MIL-STD-129. 3.11 Packaging criteria. Each roll shall have a piece ticket attached to the selvage containing the identification information desired (see Figure 1). Each wrapped or overwrapped roll (see Figure 2) shal
47、l be clearly marked on the wrapping at the end where the identification tag is attached as follows: “TAG HERE” As a minimum, each roll shall be packed in a polyethylene bag. 3.12 Workmanship. The finished cloth shall conform to the quality established by this document. 4. VERIFICATION 4.1 Classifica
48、tion of inspections. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: a. First article inspection (see 4.2). b. Conformance inspection (see 4.3). 4.2 First article inspection. When specified (see 6.2), sample yardage shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance
49、 with Table II. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-823L TABLE II. First article inspectionsInspection Requirement Inspection Method Visual examination: Wool grade examination 3.3.1 4.3.3, 4.3.3.1 Color 3.4 4.3.3 Shade matching 3.4.2 4.3.3, 4.3.3.4 We
