1、MIL-T-87047A 4 U 7777906 04103LIO U MIL-T-87047A 20 January 1987 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-87047 15 March 1978 MILITARY SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS POLYESTER/FJOOL SERGE (CG) Department of Transportation, Agencies. 1. SCOPE This specification is ap,proved for use by the United States Coast Guard, and is av
2、ailable for use by all Departments and 1.1 Scope. This specific trousers tion covers the requirements for polyester/wool 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following lengths and sizes (see 6.2): Sizes: 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42 Lengths:
3、Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long 1.3 Uniform. When coat and trousers are procured as a uniform (see 6.2), the coat and trousers shall be cut from the same piece of material and the shades shall match. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of
4、use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter
5、. FSC 8405 AMSC N/A DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. / . THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS x3 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-87047A 84 999970b 04L034L T W MIL-T-87047A 2. APPLICABLE
6、DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, an1 handbooks The following specifications , standards , and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue o
7、f the Department of Defense Index af Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-F-106 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-295 NN-P-7 1 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 MILITARY MIL-C-823 MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-43920 MIL-
8、E-50011 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Button, Sewing Hole, and But m, Staple (Plastic) - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking - Thread Cotton - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Thread, Nylon - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Cloth, Buckram, Cotto
9、n - Label; For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) Use) - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Thread, Polyester Cotton-Covered and Rayon-Cov
10、ered - Cloth, Twill, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton, - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic and Nylon - Ethanolamines (Monoethanolamine, Duthanolamine, and Wool 4 Way Entry Polyester and Rayon Triethanolamine) Technical - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspec
11、tion by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads Attributes 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-T-87047A 4 7777706 0410342 L MIL-T-87047A (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by
12、 contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of
13、this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise Specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS US POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office,
14、 Washington, DC 20402.) 2.2 Other publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Un
15、less otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES, INC. Department of Defense Standard Shades for Threads Standard Shades for Button
16、s (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the U.S. Inc., 343 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10016.) NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American T
17、rucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illin
18、ois 60606). 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specif icati,on shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific ex
19、emption has been obtained. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-870Ll7A 84 m 7799706 0430343 3 m MIL-T-87047A 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample, Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see
20、 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. 3.3:1 Basic material. The basic
21、material for the trousers shall be a 11.3 ,ounce polyester/wool serge conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall be Blue 3362. The piece number for the standard sample is 80353. *3.3,2 Pockets, lining, and interlining. The material for the pockets, waistband lining, right and left
22、 fly interlining, right fly lining, and crotch lining shall be a twill cloth, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The color shall be Black 423. *3.3.3 Waistband. The waistband shall be a pre-assembled commercial band using the material stated in 3.3.2, 3.3.4, 3.3.5, and 3.3.6. *3.3.4 Buckram. The
23、material for interlining the waistband shall be bleached or unbleached cotton buckram conforming to type II, class 1 or type IV class 1 of CCC-C-438. *3.3.5 Tape, waistband, non-slip. The woven non-slip tape for the waistband lining assembly shall be constructed of either polyester or polyester/nylo
24、n, natural or white color, with two rows of chloroprene or nitrile rubber threads, woven or stitched to the tape, and shall not deteriorate during normal dry cleaning. The width of the completed tape shall be 718 inch and shall not shrink more than 2% in the length direction when subjected to the ma
25、nufacturers standard procedures for determining dimensional stability to dry-cleaning. There shall be a minimum distance of 1/4 inch from the rubber thread to edge of tape (see 4.4.1). *3.3.6 Waistband stabilizer. The material for the waistband stabilizer shall be interlining cloth conforming to typ
26、e I of MIL-C-43920. *3.3.7 Combination label. The combination label shall conform to type VI, classes 10 and 15 of DDD-L-20. The label shall show fastness to dry cleaning and.the inscription shall read as follows: NAME: SERVICE NO. TROUSERS, MENS, POLYESTER/WOOL, SERGE FIBER CONTENT: 55% POLYESTER 4
27、5% WOOL (EXAMPLE) CONTRACT NO: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-T-87047A 4 = 9799906 0430344 5 = MIL-T-87047A INSTRUCTIONS the following sizes: Us e Seaming and stitching Bartacks,
28、buttonhole Button sewing - Treated for permanent creasing. Press on same crease line. Undesired crease lines may be removed by steam. DRY CLEAN ONLY * 3.3.7.1 Size label. The size label shall conform to Type VI, Class 2 of DDD-L-20. The inscription and format shall be as follows: Size: 34R (Example)
29、 STOCK NUMBER: 8405-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NOTE: The lengths (Short, Regular, Long, and X-Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L, or X-L, 3.3.8 Thread *3.3.8.1 Polyester covered thread. The polyester covered thread used for seaming and stitching the trousers shall match Blue shade AT, C.A. 66060 in acco
30、rdance with the standard shade for threads and conform to MIL-T-43548 in Ticket No. 50, 70 piy 2 or 3 50 2 or 3 16, 24 2 or 3 *3.3.8.2 Thread, cotton As an alternate to the polyester covered thread, a cotton thread conforming to V-T-276, type I, may be used. The color shall be the same as specified
31、above in the following types and sizes. Oper at ion Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching IA3 50 3 Bartacks, buttonhole IC2 O 3 Overedging IA3 70 2 Button sewing IB 2 50 2 or 3 *3.3,8.3 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is
32、 used, the thread shall be waxed nylon monocord special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length per pound of 2150 yards, and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (3.3.8.5) in accordance with test methods in V-T-295. The color shall be as st
33、ated in 3.3.8.1. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-87047A *3.3.8.4 Automatic pocket machine. When an automatic pocket machine using a 101 stitch type is us,ed, the thread shall be type IC2, Ticket No. A, 3 ply conforming to V-T-
34、276. When an automatic pocket machine using a 301 stitch type is used, the thread shall be Ticket No. 50, 2 or 3 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548. The color shall be as stated in 3.3.8.1. 3.3.8.5 Colorfastness. The colored thread shall show fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than
35、 the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the colored thread shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to light and wet dry-cleaning when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548 or V-T-276. 3.3.9 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, No. 8 conforming to type I or II
36、of V-T-280. The color shall match Blue shade AT, C.A. 66060 in accordance with the standard shade for threads. 3.3.9.1 Colorfastness. The colored gimp shall show fastness to wet dry-cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the colored gimp shall sho
37、w a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet dry-cleaning. 3.3.10 Buttons. The buttons for the left hip pocket, and fly-tab closure shall be type II, Class D, Style 4, 22-line, glossy finish conforming to V-B-871. The color of the buttons shall match Blue, Shade BV, Cable No. 62003 in accordance with
38、standard shades for buttons. *3.3.11 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be type I, style 1 cam lock, size LS, short tab pull, brass conforming to V-F-106, except that the salt spray test shall not apply. All metal components of the slide fastener shall be brass and shall be from the same suppl
39、ier (see 4.4.1). A staple bottom stop is required. The tape shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the tape shall show “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning. The color of the slide fastener shall approximate the s
40、hade of the basic material. *3.3.12 Hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be North and Judd (Hook Flex H-49 or E-50); Universal Fastener Inc., (#S hook with #8 eye or Il85 eye); Akim Co. (Junior Series, type JB, Slim-Slak or Slik-Slak with MB eye) or equal. (See 6.6). The finish shall be nickel plate
41、 (see 4.4.1). k3.4 Design. The trousers are dress type with a sewn-on waistband with hook and eye closure, a french fly (separate or integrated fly tab) with slide fastener, quarter top pockets and double cord hip pockets. The left hip pocket has a buttonhole tab and button. An outlet is provided at
42、 seat seam. Trouser shall have permanent creasing (see 3.7.2). 3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1-5 are furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the specification shall control. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut wor
43、king patterns will be furnished by the Government. .Except as allowed by footnotes to Table I, the working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns, which shall not be altered in any way. The patterns provide a seam allowance as follows: 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction o
44、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-T-B70Li7A 4 m 7999906 OLi30346 9 Quarter top pockets 3/8 inch Pocket facing and assembly 1/4 inch Seat seam at waist tapered to crotch Back leg inseam taped to notch at knee 1-1/4 inches tapered to 3/8 inch 7/8 inch tapered to 3/8 inch All ot
45、her seams except as indicated in Table of Operations 3/8 inch *3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from materials as specified in accordance with the number of parts required as shown in Table I. Table I List of pattern parts Mat er i al Pattern nomenclature Cut par
46、ts Basic material Front 2 Back 2 2 1 Fly (one right and one left) Right fly with integrated tab (optional) L/ Side pocket wide bearer 2 Side pocket narrow facing 2 Hip pocket bearer 2 Hip pocket cord 2 Waistband (one right and one left) 2 integrated tab (optional) L/ 2 Fly tab 2 Waistband left and r
47、ight for use with . Twill cloth Right fly lining i/ 1 (optional) L/ 1 Crotch lining 2 Fly interlining (one left and one right) 2 Side pocket 2 Hip pocket 2 Right fly lining With integrated tab *NOTE: Patterns are not furnished for belt loops, buttonhole tab, waistband lining, non-slip waistband tape
48、, waistband stabilizer, and waistband interlining (buckram). See Table II, operations 1 and 2 for their requirements. - l/ The right front end of the waistband lining may extend to the front opening. When this optional constuction is used, the right fly lining shall be shortened at the top. The alte
49、red right fly lining must be sufficiently long to extend under the waistband lining and be caught by the waistband top stitching (see operations 18b and 2012). 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-87047A 3.6 Construct ion. *3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seam and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more
