AIR FORCE MIL-S-87225 A-1990 SHIRTS WOMEN'S SHORT AND LONG SLEEVES POLYESTER COTTON (DURABLE PRESS) AND LONG SLEEVES POLYESTER WOOL《羊毛 聚酯制长袖 (耐久压)聚酯 棉制短袖及长袖的女式衬衣》.pdf

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1、MIL-S-87225A 89 m 7777706 OV32733 5 W I INCH-POLii2 I MIL-S-87225A (WAF) -7 YAY 1990 SUFERSEDING MI L-S-8722 5 (US distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 84 W 7777706 0432734 7 a MIL-S-87225A (USAii) 1

2、.2.1 Sizes. The womens shirts, short and long sleeves, shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of sizes (types I and II) and sleeve lengths (type II) Short Short pliffi Regular Regular plus Long Long ?lus 12s 14s 16s 18s 20s 2. 2. 6s 6% 8s as+ 10s 10%

3、13s+ 14S+ 16S+ 18S+ 20s+ 6R 8R 1 OR 12R 143 16R 18R 20R 22R APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS Government docmentc 6R+ 8R+ 1 OR+ 12R+ 14R+ 16R+ 18R+ 20R+ 22R+ 6L 8L 1 OL 12L 14L 16L 18L 20L 22L 61+ 81+ 101+ 121+ 141+ 161+ 181+ 201+ 221t * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The, fol lowing specificati

4、ons, standards, and haildbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these docunients shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Indexaof Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplerent thereto, cited in the s

5、olicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-203 Paper, Kraft, Untreated A-A-50083 Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment V-8-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) V-T-276 Thread, Cotton DDD-L-20 Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) PPP-B-60 1 Boxes, Wood, Cleated-Pl

6、ywod PPP- B - 636 Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard MILITARY MIL-L- 10547 Liners, Cace, and Sheet, Overwrap; Water-Vaporproof or Waterproof, Flexible MIL-C-21115 Cloth, Tropical: Wool, PolyesterWool MIL-F-21840 Fastener Tapes, Hook and Pile, Synthetic MIL-T-43548 Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Fayon-, o

7、r Polyester- MIL-c-43594 Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MI L-T - 4 362 4 Thread, Polyester Spun MIL-C-43992 Cloth, Broadcloth, Polyesfer/Cotton Diirable PTess Covered 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 4 7777906 0432735 7 W

8、 bu L -s - 372 25 ( USaF 1 STANDAXDS FEf)ETA.L FED-STD-751 Stitches, Se.ms , and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 %?king for Shipmnt and Storage MIL-STD- 147 Palletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-2073-1 Saqling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes DoD ?tateriel Procedures for Develo

9、prent and Application of Packazing Requirenients W (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and hmdbooks a of this d0cuxsr.t and the figures, the requirements of this docimnt sh3i 1 govern. 3.6.1 Stitches, sess, and stitching. Stitches, seam, and stitchi

10、ng types, as spacified in table II, shall conform to FED-STD-751. soars or stitches are given for the sane operation, any one my be used. lcoper (underthread), of stitch type 401, shall be on the insiee of tha shirt. The guides and knives on rachinos producing stitch types 515, 516, 517, 515, and 51

11、9 shall be set, to trim only the ravelled ends of th2 fajric. on the overodging rrachine, only the ravelled ends shall be trimed off; the edba of the fabric shall not be cut off. The tridng shall not exceed 1/16 inch. Seaii al lo-cos shall be raintained. raw edzas, run-Offs, twists, pleats, or pucke

12、rs. evenly. loose stitching. When tw or mre rethods of The If a knife is usad Seanic shall be sem so that there wi 11 be no All Sears shall start and finish Thread tension +all be mintuain;.d (sea 6.6) SO that there is no tight, or 3.6.1.1 Typa 301 stitching. Ends of all stitchin.? shall be backstit

13、ched or overstitched not less than 1/4 inch except where ends are turned under or caught, in othsr sears or stitching. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions Shall be raintained SO that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin o

14、r top thread or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the mbrials sewn. imb.dded in the niaterials sewn. The lock shall be 3.6.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitchins shall be as follow: a. bhen thread breaks, skipped stitches, run-o durins sewing, the stitch

15、ing shall be repaired by minimum of 114 inch back of the end of the stitch fs, or bobbin runouts occur restarting the stitching a ng. L/ b. Except for prestitching, thread breaks, or tvm or more consecutively skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overst

16、itching. The stitching shall start a minim of 1/4 inch in back of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and c0ntinue.a minim of 1/4 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. tight stitching shall be repaired by remvin;g thi? defective stitching without daxaging the

17、materials, and restitching in tho required mnner. L/ - - 11 Loose or excessively When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched. 3.6.1.3 Types 401, 502, 503. 504, 515, 516. 517, 515, and 519 stitchin f: application of size label. ti tch W?e -dm and titch

18、ing Type ti tches er Inch Tin - OP - ead Lcwr I I. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 4 m 999790b 0432742 b I MIL-S-87225A (US.W) TABLE II. ManufacC,ixin.T operations. - Continued Description of Operation Attach or apply lab

19、els. - Contd b. Position identification and instrr:ction labels or cor5ina- tion identification and instruction label on left facing and stitch on all fow sides so that in the finished shirt the la501 shall be midway betwen the seamed front edge of shirt and back edge of acing. Tie bottom edge of la

20、bel shall be approxirately 3 inches from finished bottom edge of shirt. The label shall not be visible from outside of shirt. Make collar. Fin i shed appearance. The com- pleted col lar shall finish srnoth and flat without distortion. Edges shall be Uniformly even. The Sems shall finish at the edges

21、 of %hs collar. The points and seamed edges chal 1 be neatly and comple5ely forced out. The points chal 1 be miform in length. a. The collar and collar stnnd each shall be rade of tw plies of basic mterial and one ply of inter1 ining . b. SeLam interlining .w.d top coilar together 118 inch from each

22、 ed. Trim excess inter- lining along eddes , wheri necessary. ;ti tch Type JO 1 IO 1 jeam and titching Type Sb j - 1 Xitchez ?er Inci 8- 14 12- 14 Th - TOP - 70-2 70-2 ?ad dowr 70-2 70-2 10 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-VIL-S-87225A

23、 9 777770b 0432793 I MIL-S-87225A(liSA) TABLE II. VanufactrLning opeiations . - Continusd Description of Operation hke collar. - Contd 3. Seam interlining and top 2ollar stand 118 inch from top ind lowr -edge. Trim excess interlining along edges, where lecsssary. i. Position under collar stad m outs

24、ide of under collar with iotches matching and join to- se%her at the 1owr edge with 3 1/4-inch seam. s. Turn under collar stand aTd stitch 1/16 inch from raised sdge . f. Position top collar stand 3n outside of top collar with notches matching and join to- sether at 1owr edge with a 1/4-inch seam. .

25、 stitch 1/16 inch from raised edge. Turn top collar stand and h. Position wider collar and top collar face to face with top notches watching and edges even and seam together along top and side edges with 1/4-inch sam. i. 3n .a hea?xd collar point turnkg aid press in2 mchine , -mAcit?g m.:t hhs point

26、o 1 i0 1 50 1 50 1 so 1 so 1 30 1 eam and ti tching Type 3 ti tchei Fer Incl 12-14 12- 14 12- 14 12-14 12-14 12-14 13-14 - T: - ?op - ?O- TO - 70 - 70- 70- 70- 70 - !ad mvsr ?O-2 ?O-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 i! Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license fro

27、m IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 4 779770b 0432744 T I Description of Operation !C. Press collar cmoth and flat (see OpeTation 24) . OR 1. Seam ths threa p,lies to- Sether 1/4 inch from top and side edges, with the interlining 3n top and all edges even. x. P.e intetlining rray Oe stitched to the underply of c

28、ollar 118 inch from outer dges before joining to the top ply of collar. n. on a heated collar point turning and pressing machine, wrking out the points completely and mrking seam line to edge. Trim points and turn collar o. Edze stitch the upper and side edzes of the collar imifordy 1/4 inch from se

29、a;ned Idges . p. Press collar sraoth and flat (see Operation 24). OR 7. The collar leaf tray be Sac%ed along the seamed ed- 3. I 30 1 30 1 1 Seam and j t i tching TYFe Xe- 1 (a) 3%- 1 %e-2 (b) Sti tche: Per Incl 12- 14 12- 14 12- 70-9 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 12 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repro

30、duction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-u0 . - 5. 6. MIL-S-87225A (US.W) TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation kk3 collar. - Contd -. Position the raw edge of :ollar betwsn the top and mder collar stand with inter- lining as indicated bf notche

31、s in pattern and stitch from end :o end along top edg,e of :ollar stand, 3/16 to 114 inch from edge. OR s. The collar stand interlining nay be stitched to the under zollar stand 1/8 inch from the ?aw edges before joining to 2ollar. t. stand to finish position and raise stitch 1/16 inch from turned -

32、edge. Turn top and under collar u. Press collar smooth and flat (see Operation 24). Attach elastic loop to collar. Fold the elastic in half, fortitch Type IO 1 i02 or i03 i01 or .o 1 i03 or 104 115 or 16 or 117 or 13 :em arid iti tching Type :Sa- 1 SFd- 1 :sa- 1 :Fd- 1 sa-2 Stitches Per Inct 12-14 1

33、0- 14 12-14 10- 14 10- 14 Tl - TOP - 70-! 70-: 70-5 70-5 70-5 sad Lowr 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-7225A 4 9797906 0432747 5 I - JO. 8. 9. 10. MIL-S-87225A (USAFI TABLE II. Wni.ifact,uring operations

34、. - Continued Description of Operation Assemble front and front side pnel;. - Contd i. Press th3 front and cid- front panel joining seam smoth md flat (see Operation 24) The seam shall 5e pressed toward the center front. Acssmble bark. a. Position the left aiid right side back to center back with ed

35、ed even ar,d notche nwtching Stitch togethar with l/$-inch seam. b. Overedge s-titch the raw edges of the back and side back Sems together. OR c. The left and rizht side body my be joined to the center back by seariing and overedge stitching the raw edges to- gether in one operation. d. Press the ri

36、ght and left Sack sea smoth and flat (see Operation 24). The back seam shall be pressed toward the center back. Seam shoulders. a. Join back to fronts at the shoulder with 1/4-inch seam. b. Overedge stitch the raw :edges of the shoulder seam . togother. I OR I titch Type IO! or o1 i03 or i04 i15 or

37、i16 or i17 or il8 301 or 20 1 503 or 504 ?am 3nd ;itching SPe Sa- 1 Fd- 1 Sa- 2 Sa- 1 Bd- 1 ti tchec er Incl- .2- 14 .O- 14 LO- 14 12-14 10-14 0-3 0-2 70-2 70-: 70-: 3.d otver - 0-2 0-2 70-2 70-2 70-3 15 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

38、,- No. - 10 a 11. 12. MIL-S-87225A 4 7797706 0432748 7 I KL-S-87225A (U5A.F) TABLE II. bhnufactixing operations. - Conkinued Description of Operation Seam shouldsrs. - Contd c. The raw eddes of the back and front sem at the shoulder my be joined by seaming and overedge stitching in one operation. Ma

39、rk lower front corners. Turn facing to the front at the notch on the bottom of the shirt with the raw edges of the bottom and angle even and stitch across the angle and bottom with 1/4- inch seam. The seam at the bottom edge shall extend the width of the facing and be in line with the bottom turn-up

40、 mrk . Set callar with size label. a. Position collar between facing and front with the lower end of collar in line with the *lapel notch and with raw edge of collar and gorge even. Stitch all plies together with 1/4-inch seam along the gorge fron the lapel notch up to approximtely 1 inch in back of

41、 the joining seam line of collar and collar stard. b. Notch all plies at the end of stitching line and continue to stitch the lowr (neck) edge of the under collar stani to fron ar.d back part from gorge seam to gorge seam. When used, the typa VI size label shall be centered on the back part and caug

42、ht in seam joining collar to shirt. Stitch Typa 515 or 516 or 517 or 5 19 30 1 30 1 30 ;earn and :ti tch i ng Type isa-2 Sa- 1 Sa- 1 Sa- 1 10-14 12- 14 12-14 12- 14 Th - TOP - 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 sad Lowr 70-2 70-2 70-2 70-2 16 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wit

43、hout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 84 797790b 0432749 9 I MIL-S-37225A (USAF) TAELE II. hkni.rfacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Set collar with size label. - Contd c. Turn facing to the inside of fronts, mrking out the points and seamed edges and lapping back edge of fac

44、ing on front end of bottom,turn up. ci. Stitch the shoi-ilder edge of facing to the shoulder seam allomnce 3/16 inch from edge. e. Position size label at center back Sa- 1 :sa- 1 Sg-2 (b) )r iSj -2 (b) stitches Fer Inck 12-14 12-14 12-14 Th - rOP - 70-2 70-2 70-1; !ad mer 70-2 0-2 70-2 17 Provided b

45、y IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- No. - 13. 14. MIL-S-87225A 84 W 979970b 0432750 5 I MIL- s- 8 7 2 2 5a US.) TASLE II. Xmcfacti-ring operations, - Continwd Description of Operation Att.ach pile fca.stemr tape to shirt under the collar. Finished

46、 appearance. The ap- plication of attaching fastener tape to shirt shall not cause any distortion to the collar, interlining, or shir3, either in an open collar or buttoned collar position. a. The 519- by 3/4-inch piece of pile fastener tape shall be positioned 1/16 51/16 inch above the collar gorge

47、 seam at tho point there the under collar stand begins. The pile fastener taps shall be stitched on all four sides 1/16 inch from %he edge through all plies of th9 shirt. NOTE: The 3/4 inch side of the pile fastener tape shall be parallel to the gorge seam. Mdce orn.em and ;ti tching Type sa- 1 3 ti

48、 tches Per Inch 12-14 Th - TOP - 70-2 19 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87225A 4 7777706 0432753 7 W - JO. - 14. 1s. EL-S -87225A (WAF) TULE II. Iihn.:fac:C,irin operations. - Continued Description of Operation take onr,a.%n ta

49、l s 1 eeve cuf f s (type I) . - Contd 1. Fold cuff back to the risht, side against bo.iy of the sleeve it the folding notches, with the Iointed end of the cuff face u? ind stitch the cuff through all Jliss, 1/4 inch from the upper folded edge, catching the turned under portion in th? : t, i t,ch ing . kke c

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