1、Designation: D 204 02Standard Test Methods forSewing Threads1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates th
2、e year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewingthreads of any fiber.1.1.1 The test me
3、thods in this standard are intended toevaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement ofsewing thread physical properties. These test methods do notaddress any other properties that may be important for thesatisfactory performance of sewi
4、ng threads under particularend use conditions.1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-ing properties:SectionsColorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94Diameter 43-50Length per Thread Holder 34-42Shrinkage, Single Strand
5、51-61Dry Heat 58.1Boiling Water 58.2Strength and Elongation 15-21Single StrandConditioned 19.1.1Single StrandWet 19.1.2Loop Strength 19.2Knot Strength 19.3Twist 22-27Twist Balance 28-33Yarn Number 7-14NOTE 1For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to TestMethods D 1683 and D 3940.21.4 The
6、 values stated in SI units are to be regarded asstandard; the values in English units are provided as informa-tion only and are not exact equivalents.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this
7、standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Tex-tiles3D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles3D 1422 Test Method for
8、 Twist in Single Spun Yarns by theUntwist-Retwist Method3D 1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting3D 1683 Test Method for Failure In Sewn Seams of WovenFabrics3D 1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles3D 1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials3D 1907 Test Metho
9、d for Linear Desnisty (Yarn Number) bythe Skein Method3D 2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by theSingle-Strand Method3D 2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing3D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel Fabrics3D 3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
10、Sewing Threads2D 3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-ing Threads2D 3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) andElongation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven StretchTextile Fabrics2D 4848 Terminology of Force, Deformation and RelatedProperties of Textiles2D 4849 Terminology Relating
11、 to Yarns and Fibers2D 6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams22.2 AATCC Standards:Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics4Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change4Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale43. Terminology3.1 Definit
12、ions:1These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns andFibers.Current edition approved Sept. 10, 2002. Published November 2002. Originallypublished as D 204 24 T. Last previous edition D 204 97.2Annual
13、 Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.3Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Un
14、ited States.3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D 4848 for definitions of thefollowing terms used in this standard elongation; force andloop-breaking force.3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D 4849 for definitions of thefollowing terms used in this standard colorfastness; coveredyarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sew
15、ing force, sewing thread,tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D 123 for definitions of otherterms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.4. Significance and Use4.1 Acceptance TestingThe test
16、methods in Test MethodsD 204 for the determination of the properties of sewing threadare considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in theindividual test method. These test methods are the bestavailable and are used extensively in the t
17、rade.4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)comparative test should be performed to determine if there is astatistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a co
18、mparativetests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the samelot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate resultsduring initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbersto each laboratory. The test results from the laboratoriesinvolved should be compared using a statistic
19、al test forunpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testingseries. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found andcorrected, or future test results for that material must beadjusted in consideration of the known bias.5. Sampling5.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testin
20、g,take at random the number of shipping units directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to usePractice D 2258. Consider shipping cases or other shippingunits to be the primary sampling units.NOTE 2An adequate specif
21、ication or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account variability betweenshipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, andbetween specimens from a single package so as to provide a sampling planwith a meaningful producers risk, consumers ri
22、sk, acceptable qualitylevel, and limiting quality level.5.2 Laboratory SampleAs a laboratory sample for accep-tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lotsample the number of packages or ends directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement to usePractice D 2258
23、. Preferably, the same number of packagesshould be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. Ifdiffering numbers of packages are to be taken from shippingunits in the lot sample, determine at random which shippingunits are to have each number of packages drawn.5.3 Test SpecimensFrom each pack
24、age in the laboratorysample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.6. Conditioning6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed inPractice D 1776.6.2 When precondit
25、ioning is specified in a material specifi-cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimensfor at least3hinanatmosphere with relative humidity between10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50C (122F) asdirected in Practice D 1776.6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to m
26、ov-ing air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 6 1C(706 2F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass ofthe specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hinthe standard atmosphere.YARN NUMBER7. Scope7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn numberof all types of se
27、wing threads taken from a thread holder.8. Summary of Test Method8.1 A measured length of conditioned thread is wound on areel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed intex.9. Significance and Use9.1 This test method should be used to establish standardticket numbers for sewing threads a
28、ccording to PracticeD 3823.10. Apparatus10.1 Reel:10.1.1 GeneralA hand or motor-driven reel having aspecified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversingmechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, andwith an indicator of the length wound. A warning bell that willring at a spec
29、ified length is recommended. It is advisable thatone arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.10.2 Balance:10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, abalance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-tivity of 1 part in 100.10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of c
30、onditioning, abalance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.11. Conditioning11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted inTable 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.D20402212. Procedure12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as
31、 directedin Option 1 of Test Method D 1907, except that in place ofTable 2 in D 1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D 204.13. Report13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in TestMethods D 204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampledand the method of sampling used.13.2 Report the f
32、ollowing information:13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to twosignificant figures,13.2.3 Reel perimeter,13.2.4 Length of skein, and13.2.5 Number of specimens.14. Precision and Bias14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are
33、 asgiven in Test Method D 1907.STRENGTH AND ELONGATION15. Scope15.1 This test method can be used to determine single strandbreaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strandtesting includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation atsewing forces.16. Summary of Test Method16.1 Single
34、strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensiletesting machine at a predetermined elongation rate and thetensile properties are determined.16.2 The test method offers the following three physicalconfigurations of the specimen:16.2.1 straight,16.2.2 looped,16.2.3 knotted.17. Significance and Use17.1 Th
35、ere are several properties of sewing thread that aresignificant with regards to sewing and seam performance,including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.17.1.1 Straight StrengthThe straight breaking strength ofa thread c
36、an be used to calculate the loop breaking strengthonce a regression equation has been determined because theloop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.17.1.2 Loop StrengthThe loop breaking strength is ameasure of the threads ability to contribute to seam perfor-mance. Loop break
37、ing strength of a thread bears a directrelationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seambreaking strength.17.1.3 Loop ElongationThe loop elongation of the threadis one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam,along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches perinch,
38、and the nature of the material stitched.17.1.4 Elongation at Sewing ForceThe elongation atsewing force of a thread influences its behavior during thestitching cycle on a sewing machine.17.1.5 Knot StrengthThe reduction in breaking force dueto the presence of a knot is considered a measure of thebrit
39、tleness of the thread.18. Conditioning18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 ofthese Test Methods D 204.19. Procedure19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:19.1.1 Conditioned ThreadsSelect conditioned specimensand determine breaking force and elongation as directed inOption A1 of Test
40、Method D 2256 except that a 250 6 3mm(10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage lengthand a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testingmachine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to breakrequirement.19.1.2 Wet Thre
41、adsSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the breaking force and elongation as directed in OptionA2 of Test Method D 2256 except that a CRE type testingmachine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to breakrequirement.19.2 Loop Str
42、engthSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 ofTest Method D 2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.19.3 Knot StrengthSelect conditioned specimens and de-termine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 ofTest Method D 2256. Disregard the 20 s
43、to break.TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant YarnNumberResultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter1.5 yd ReelPerimeterAll thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps100 m 120 ydAll threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps10 m 12 ydTABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein
44、 inChecking Length by Skein MethodResultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter1.5 yd ReelPerimeterAll thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps200 m 300 ydThreads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps100 m 150 ydAll threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps50 m 75 ydD20402319.4 Elongation a
45、t Sewing ForcesTest the specimens asdirected for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongationfrom the force elongation chart or display at the force specifiedfor the needle thread of the seam to be sewn.19.4.1 If the force on the needle thread is not known, aguideline for sewing elongation can
46、be obtained by reading theforce-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g (12 lb) forthread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 to270 g/m3, or (4 to 8 oz/yd3) range and at a force of 340 g (34lb) for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m3(8 to 15 oz/yd3).20. R
47、eport20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in TestMethods D 204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampledand the method of sampling used.20.2 Report the following information:20.2.1 Options if other than A1,20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,20.2.3 Gage length tested
48、,20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,20.2.5 The average of the breaking forces for a sample is thesample breaking strength.20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-gation at break or at specified force as determined for single-strand, knot and loop configurations, and20.2.7 Average
49、elongation at sewing forces, loop elonga-tion, either or both, if determined.21. Precision and Bias21.1 The precision and bias for testing strength and elonga-tion are given in Test Method D 2256.TWIST22. Scope22.1 This test method determines the amount and directionof twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single(spun or filament), plied, or cabled thread. The procedures aredesigned primarily for thread on holders.23. Summary of Test Method23.1 The turns of twist in a known length of thread arecounted as they are being removed by rotating one
