1、Designation:D619309 Designation: D6193 11Standard Practice forStitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in pare
2、ntheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitche
3、s and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabricationof sewn items.1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice
4、is comprised of thefollowing sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:1.3.1 Section 5Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,1.3.2 Section 6Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and1.3.3 Annex A1Seam
5、 Assembly Recommendations.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prio
6、r to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 bartack, na reinforcement stitch that effectively minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.3.1.1.1 DiscussionExamples of critical stress stitchlines includ
7、e: ends of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat seams,collars, webbing and other components. If the bartacking process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, improper thread sizerelationship or shortened bartack stitched length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the st
8、itch density, can exhibitsevere needle-cutting, thus creating a self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is excessive, or sewing needle or threadsize is too large for fabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between length, width or throw and total stitches. Itdoes not
9、 incorporate stitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.3.1.1.2 DiscussionCounting finished bartack stitches is virtually impossible since the overall process consists of threecomponents. The process begins in a horizontal position to achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-
10、zagstitch-line along the horizontal plane including backstitching at both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling. Thezig-zag stitches criss-cross the initial horizontal stitch line thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.3.1.2 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or c
11、omplete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.3.1.1.13.1.2.1 DiscussionThis can also be referred to as needle cuts.3.1.23.1.3 seam, na line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapledseam, ther
12、mally bonded seam.)3.1.31This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies .Current edition approved Jan. 15, 2009.1, 2011. Published March 2009.May 2011. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous editi
13、on approved in 20042009 asD619397(2004).D6193 09. DOI: 10.1520/D6193-09.10.1520/D6193-11.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Sum
14、mary page on the ASTM website.1This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommen
15、ds that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.4 seam allowa
16、nce, nin sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.43.1.5 seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.TABLE 1 Stitch and Seam DefectsStitch Defects Seam Assembly DefectsLoose stitches
17、PuckersPoorly formed stitches TwistsCrowded stitches PlaitsTight stitches UndulationsCrooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed(felled seams)NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with
18、itself on theundersurface of the material.FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A8. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A8 shallbe interlooped with itself and with thread A.FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102NOTE 1This type of stitc
19、h shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The threadshall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103D6193 1123.1.53.1.6 seam damag
20、e, n in sewn fabrics, an adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in aseam which would reduce the seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.3.1.63.1.7 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength.3.1
21、.6.13.1.7.1 DiscussionFor some constructions, yarn strength and stitch type can contribute to a higher seam efficiency value.3.1.73.1.8 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.3.1.83.1.9 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeri
22、c designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioningand rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.3.1.93.1.10 sew, vto unite or fasten with stitches.3.1.103.1.11 sewing thread, na flexible, small-diameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubric
23、ant, or both,NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through
24、 portions of thebottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at thecenter line.FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A8, which shall be
25、 passed through the material in the same perforationsfrom opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201D6193 113intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material.3.1.113.1.12 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at which two o
26、r more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined bysewing, usually near the edge.3.1.123.1.13 stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See also stitching,and stitch type.)3.1.133.1.14 stitch density, nin sewn seams, the numbe
27、r of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.3.1.13.13.1.14.1 DiscussionThis is usually expressed as stitches per inch (spi).3.1.143.1.15 stitch gage, n in sewn seams, the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.15NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be
28、 formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with
29、 one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediatelypassed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed throughthe material and the loop and immediately passed back
30、 through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive thesucceeding stitch.FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch lengthand then passed back
31、up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed throughthe material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross patternof stitches on the s
32、urface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204D6193 1143.1.16 stitch type, n in sewn seams, a numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing ofsewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.3.1.163.1.17 s
33、titching, na series of stitches embodied in a material or materials of planar structure such as woven textile fabricsusually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge, or both.3.1.173.1.18 yarn slippage, nin sewn seams in sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or more yarns from the original posit
34、ion,causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this practice, refer to Terminology D123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used fora par
35、ticular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can resultin failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.4.2 General CharacteristicsThe characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength
36、, elasticity, durability,security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form theNOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop with
37、itself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returnedby another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one
38、 needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passedthrough the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the materialor materials being sewn.FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301NOTE 1This type of st
39、itch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A8, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A8shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302D6193 115optimum sewn seam. T
40、he end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seamtype and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.4.2.1 StrengthThe seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength witha ba
41、lanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strengthof a sewn seam are:4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.1.2 Seam type,4.2.1.3 Stitch type,4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and4.2.1.6 Thread strength.NOT
42、E 1This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A8 and A9, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A,A8 and A9 shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 13 Stitch Type 30
43、3NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the sameas stitch type 301 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 14 Stitch Type 304NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be forme
44、d with three threads: two needle threads, A and A8, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A8shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B and the interlacing shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive singlestitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG
45、. 15 Stitch Type 305D6193 1164.2.2 ElasticityThe elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This willenable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewnseam depends
46、upon:4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.2.2 Seam type,4.2.2.3 Stitch type,4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.4.2.3 DurabilityThe durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and theelasticity of th
47、e material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” orslide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitchdensity also needs to be carefully determined for the
48、material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticityand cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to promote durability.NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbi
49、n thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passedthrough the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth and shall be interlaced with threadB on the top surface of the bottom ply of material.FIG. 16 Stitch Type 306NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads, A, A8,A9,A89, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A8,A9,A89, shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the u
