1、Designation: F 1774 99 (Reapproved 2005)Standard Specification forClimbing and Mountaineering Carabiners1This standard is issued under the fixed designation F 1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last r
2、evision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and theminimum performance requirements for carabiners designedspecifically
3、for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in thisstandard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Cara-biners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in anyway after testing e
4、xcept in evaluating the results of suchtesting.1.4 This specification does not imply approval of anymethod of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. Inaddition, the test load values contained herein are not to beinterpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineeringcarabiner may be su
5、bjected to, or expected to sustain in actualfield use.1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steelor aluminum alloys only.1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as thestandard.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing Mac
6、hinesF 1772 Specification for Climbing HarnessesF 1775 Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Moun-taineering Equipment2.2 Other Standard:EN 566:1994 Slings preliminary3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsTerms defined in Terminology F 1772shall be applicable to this specification.3.2 Definitions of Ter
7、ms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 carabiner, na self-closing gated, load-bearing, con-nective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking orblocking devices, that when activated, override the self-closingfeatures.3.2.2 failure, nan arbitrary point beyond which a materialor product ceases to be f
8、unctionally capable of its intended use.In this application, the point at which some part of thecarabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the testmembers are released.3.2.3 locking carabiner, na carabiner with a mechanismthat reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadvert-en
9、tly. A locking mechanism requires at least two differentconsecutive manual actions to open the gate.3.2.4 nonlocking carabiner, nany carabiner that does nothave a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate beingopened inadvertently.3.2.5 normal body weight, na standardized weight thatrepresent
10、s a typical climber, defined as Function Test Force No.1.3.2.6 ultimate strength, nthe maximum force sustained bya carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.4. Significance and Use4.1 Gate Function During Body Weight TestThis testsimulates a climbers body weight of Function Test
11、Force No.1 and verifies that the gate functions as intended under bodyweight force.4.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 % Force TestThis testverifies that the gate functions as originally intended afterFunction Test Force No. 2 has been applied and released.4.3 Locking Mechanism TestThis test verifies that
12、 thelocking mechanism keeps the gate in the locked positionbetween forces of 0 kN and Function Force Test No. 3.4.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength TestThistest is intended to show the force required to physically fail thecarabiner.4.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength TestThis testsim
13、ulates a potential inadvertent use of a carabiner. It isintended to show the force required to physically fail thecarabiner.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Searchand Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,Testing, and Mainte
14、nance.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2005. Published October 2005. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as F 1774 99.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStanda
15、rds volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength TestThistest simulates a potential inadvertent use o
16、f a carabiner. It isintended to show the force required to fail physically thecarabiner along the minor axis.5. Responsibility for Quality Assurance5.1 Quality control is solely the responsibility of the manu-facturer or purchaser, or both, and is not addressed by thisspecification.6. Apparatus and
17、Condition6.1 Tensile Tester, capable of calibration in accordance withPractices E 4 to the ultimate strength of all carabiners tested.6.2 Test Fixtures and Supplies:6.2.1 There are four total test pins required, two pins with6 6 0.05-mm radius and two pins with 5 6 0.05-mm radius.Pins must be alloy
18、steel and heat-treated to minimum Rockwellhardness, C scale 60. The mean surface roughness, Ra, must notexceed 0.8 m and the peak to valley height, Rmax, must notexceed 6.3 m. The fixture should be designed in such a waythat the pins do not rotate and that the carabiner is free to locateitself on th
19、e pins when the force is applied. See Figs. 1 and 2.6.2.2 Molybdenum-Based Grease.6.3 Test ConditionsThe ambient temperature shall bebetween 15 and 23C.7. Hazards7.1 Carabiners may disengage or eject parts from the testfixture. Use a safety screen and wear safety glasses whiletesting. Do not perform
20、 this test alone.8. Sampling8.1 Number of TestsThe number of samples for testingwill be specified by the manufacturers quality assuranceprogram. A minimum of five will be used, in sequence, for thegate function during body weight, major axis gate closed 70 %,and major axis gate closed ultimate stren
21、gth tests. A minimumof five will be used for the major axis gage open ultimatestrength test.Aminimum of five will be used for the minor axisgate closed ultimate strength test.9. Performance Specifications9.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:FIG. 1 Major Axis Test Set-UpF 1774 99 (2005)2NOTEDime
22、nsions in millimetres.FIG. 2 Minor Axis TestsF 1774 99 (2005)39.1.1 Function Test Force No. 1 will be used for this test.Each of the carabiners subjected to the body weight test shallshow no evidence of distortion that impairs the designedfunction.9.1.2 While the body weight force is applied, the ca
23、rabinergate shall open and close as designed and with the same qualityand performance as before the test.9.1.3 When a locking carabiner is locked while the bodyweight force is applied, the locking mechanism must be able tobe rotated to its unlocked position by hand after the force isremoved.9.2 Majo
24、r Axis Gate Closed 70 Force TestFunction TestForce No. 2 will be used for this test. Each of the carabinerssubjected to the 70 % force test shall show no evidence ofdistortion that impairs the designed function after the test isconducted. The locking mechanism of a locking carabiner shallopen and cl
25、ose as originally intended and with the same qualityand performance as before the test.9.3 Locking Mechanism TestFunction Test Force No. 3will be used for this test. With the locking mechanism in thelocked position and an inward force of 50 N applied to thecenter of the gate, the gate must not open
26、as Function TestForce No. 3 is applied to the major axis of the carabiner. Whenthe load is released, the gate and locking mechanism must befully functional.9.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:9.4.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to thistest shall have an ultimate strength
27、equal to or greater than themajor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in Table 1.9.4.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for lockin
28、gcarabiners listed in Table 1.9.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test:9.5.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to thistest shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate open minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in Table 1.9.5.2 Ea
29、ch of the locking carabiners subjected to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than themajor axis gate open minimum ultimate strength for lockingcarabiners listed in Table 1.9.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:9.6.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to
30、 thistest shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than theminor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for nonlock-ing carabiners listed in Table 1.9.6.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected to this testshall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than theminor axis gate c
31、losed minimum ultimate strength for lockingcarabiners listed in Table 1.10. Procedure10.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:10.1.1 Grease the test pins where the carabiner comes incontact with the pins.10.1.2 Position the carabiner on the 6-mm radius test pins asshown in Fig. 1. Position the tes
32、t pins against the spine of thecarabiner. If the carabiner has a captive sling that is intended tobe loaded directly, apply the test force directly to the sling byone of the 5-mm radius test pins in accordance with EN 566. Ifthe carabiner has provision for a semicaptive sling, apply thetest force to
33、 a short sling by one of the 5-mm radius test pins.10.1.3 Load the carabiner to within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 1, without going above it, at a rate of 10 6 5mm/min.10.1.4 Nonlocking TestWhile maintaining the force, openand close the gate and check that gate functions as originallyintended.
34、 On the report, record whether gate opens or closes asintended and the actual tensile force applied.10.1.5 Locking TestWhile maintaining the force with thelocking mechanism unlocked, open and close the gate andcheck that the gate functions as originally intended. On thereport, record whether gate op
35、ens or closes as intended and theactual force applied. Engage the locking mechanism to itslocked position by hand. Release the force.10.1.6 For locking carabiners, release the locking mecha-nism by hand. On the test report, record whether the mecha-nism can or cannot be unlocked by hand.10.2 Major A
36、xis Gate Closed 70 % Force Test:10.2.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 10.1.10.2.2 Load the carabiner to within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 2, without going above it, at a rate of 10 6 5mm/min.10.2.3 Release the force on the carabiner.10.2.4 Open and close the gate and check that t
37、he gatefunctions as originally intended.10.2.5 On the report, record whether the gate opens orcloses as intended and the actual force applied.10.3 Locking Mechanism Test:10.3.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 10.1.10.3.2 Engage the locking mechanism to the locked posi-tion.10.3.3 Apply a
38、 continuous force of 50 N towards the spineat the center of the gate.10.3.4 Load the carabiner to within 2 % of the Function TestForce No. 3, without going above it, at a rate of 10 6 5mm/min.10.3.5 Verify that the gate does not open from 0 to FunctionForce No. 3. Release the force.10.3.6 When the l
39、oad is released, the gate and lockingmechanism must be fully functional.10.3.7 On the report, record whether the gate opened or didnot open. Record if the locking mechanism is fully functionalor not fully functional.10.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:TABLE 1 Function Test Forces and
40、Minimum Ultimate StrengthsACarabinerTypeFunction Test Forces Minimum Ultimate StrengthNo. 1 No. 2 No. 3MajorAxis GateClosedMajorAxis GateOpenMinorAxis GateClosedNonlockingcarabiner0.8 kN 14 kN 7 kN 20 kN min 7 kN min 7 kN minLockingcarabiner0.8 kN 14 kN 7 kN 20 kN min 7 kN min 7 kN minASee Appendix
41、X1 for more information.F 1774 99 (2005)410.4.1 Perform the first two steps as described in 10.1.10.4.2 Load the carabiner at a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min, untilfailure.10.4.3 Record the ultimate strength on the test report.10.5 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test:10.5.1 Perform the first two ste
42、ps as described in 10.1.10.5.2 Load the carabiner at a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min withthe gate latched open by suitable means, until failure.10.5.3 Record the ultimate strength on the report.10.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:10.6.1 Position the carabiner on the 5-mm radius test pins assh
43、own in Fig. 2 (see Appendix X2 for further explanation). Forlocking carabiners, test the carabiners with the locking mecha-nism in the locked position. In order to avoid movement of thetest pins during the test, use one of the two options. Option 1:Machine notches in the body and the gate as shown i
44、n Fig. 2.Option 2: Use clamps to position the test pins as shown in Fig.2. If the internal clearance between the gate and the spine doesnot accommodate two 5-mm radius test pins, modify the pinsso that they can be positioned as shown in Fig. 2.10.6.2 Load the carabiner at a rate of 30 6 5 mm/min, un
45、tilfailure.10.6.3 Record the ultimate strength on the report.11. Product Marking11.1 All identification markings of product shall be inaccordance with Specification F 1775.12. Certification12.1 When specified in the purchase order or contract, thepurchaser shall be furnished certification that sampl
46、es repre-senting each lot have been tested or inspected in this specifi-cation and the requirements of this specification have been met.When specified in the purchase order or contract, a report ofthe results shall be furnished.13. Report13.1 Report the following information:13.1.1 Name of the labor
47、atory or agency that performed themechanical tests.13.1.2 Date of testing.13.1.3 Manufacture or brand and model of carabiners tested.13.1.4 Information required by Practices E4for test ma-chine.13.1.5 Name of test administrator.13.1.6 Identification of lot and size of lot tested.13.2 Results of Gate
48、 Function Under Body Weight Test:13.2.1 Actual force applied.13.2.2 Gate opens/gate does not open.13.2.3 Gate closes/gate does not close.13.2.4 With locking mechanism locked: Gate opens/gatedoes not open.13.2.5 Locking mechanism can/cannot be unlocked.13.3 Results of Major Axis Gate Closed 70 % Forc
49、e Test:13.3.1 Actual force applied.13.3.2 Gate opens/gate does not open.13.3.3 Gate closes/gate does not close.13.4 Results of Locking Mechanism Test:13.4.1 Gate opened/did not open.13.4.2 Locking mechanism fully or not fully functional.13.5 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:13.5.1 Ultimate Strength.13.6 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test:13.6.1 Ultimate Strength.13.7 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:13.7.1 Ultimate Strength.14. Precision and Bias14.1 It is not practical to specify the precision of theprocedure in this
