1、BRITISH STANDARD BS7269-1: 1991 Drycleanability of leather garments Part 1: Specification for drycleanability and for appropriate care labelsBS7269-1:1991 This BritishStandard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles andClothing Standards PolicyCommittee, was publishedunder the autho
2、rityofthe Standards Boardand comes into effect on 28 June1991 BSI12-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/17 Draft for comment88/39725 DC ISBN 0 580 19253 9 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this BritishStanda
3、rd was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/17, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Footwear Manufacturers Federation British Leather Confederation Chief and Assistant Chief Fi
4、re Officers Association Consumer Policy Committee of BSI Footwear Distributors Federation Hides and Allied Trades Improvement Society Institute of Trading Standards Administration Ministry of Defence Overseas Development Natural Resources Institute SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Scottish Hide, Ski
5、n and Tallow Markets Limited Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date CommentsBS7269-1:1991 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Performance 1 4 Extractable oil content and
6、 allocation of star rating 1 5 Content of leather garment care label 2 6 Marking 2 Appendix A Guidance for garment manufacturers 4 Appendix B Guidance for drycleaners 4 Table 1 Drycleanability performance requirements for leather garments 1 Table 2 Allocation of star rating 1 Table 3 Symbols used to
7、 indicate suitable drycleaning solvents for leather garments that do not require re-oiling with triolein 2 Table 4 Use of the star rating to indicate the extractable oil content and to show the degree of re-oiling necessary 3 Table 5 Example of combining the star rating of Table 4 with the drycleani
8、ng solvent symbol of Table 3 to produce a leather garment care label 3 Table 6 Concentration of triolein in solvent used in determining if a leather garment is drycleanable, and associated star rating 4 Publication(s) referred to Inside back coverBS7269-1:1991 ii BSI 12-1999 Foreword This Part of BS
9、7269 has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. It is complementary to BS6453. Textile care labelling has, over the last25years, been a major factor in the incorporation of satisfactory after-care into garment design. The absence of a comparable sy
10、stem for leather garments has been accentuated by the wide variation in technical performance of these items, particularly regarding cleaning. It has been acknowledged that an approach different to that for textiles (as established in BS2747) is required for leather, since these items are normally s
11、ubjected to professional cleaning using a modified drycleaning process of which there are many variants. Most leathers, whether finished on the suede side or the grain side, contain solvent-extractable lubricants which affect drape, tactile appeal and richness of colour. Drycleaning solvents may ext
12、ract these oils producing a rather flat appearance unless re-oiling is carried out. However, technical developments within the leather industry to produce the required leather properties with reduced amounts of free lubricant now mean that some leathers, particularly paleshades, could be inadvertent
13、ly over-oiled by cleaners, in which case reprocessing might be necessary. To overcome these problems, research staff at the British Leather Confederation and the Fabric Care Research Association have collaborated in a joint research project funded by the two organizations and by the Department of Tr
14、ade and Industry. One of the original intentions in carrying out the research work necessary for the production of this Part of BS7269 was to arrive at a leather garment care labelling scheme that would provide the cleaner with the following information: a) the solvent(s) to be used in the drycleani
15、ng process; b) the degree of re-oiling required in the second bath. The result has been the preparation of this specification which places limitations on the changes in a garment caused by drycleaning, and also specifies requirements for leather garment care labels to inform professional drycleaners
16、 (see Appendix B for guidance on this). BS7269-2 describes a method of test for assessing the drycleanability of leather garments. The use of chlorofluorocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane (solvent11) and trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113) is currently under review. Future legislation may pre
17、vent these solvents from being used in drycleaning. It is anticipated that this BritishStandard will then be revised accordingly and that different solvents will then be specified. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards a
18、re responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to4, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard ha
19、s been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS7269-1:1991 BSI 12-1999 1 1 Scope This Part of BS7269 specifies requirements for the drycleanability of leather garments. It also specifies symbols
20、to be used on leather garment care labels, which indicate firstly which drycleaning solvents are suitable and secondly the degree of re-oiling that will be necessary. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes o
21、f this Part of BS7269, the definitions given in BS2780 apply, together with the following. 2.1 composite test specimen test specimen consisting of all leathers, textiles, interlinings, adhesives, adhesive tapes, buttons, binding and other components used in the garment, and in the same relative posi
22、tions as in the garment 2.2 drycleanability extent to which an article may be cleaned by means of immersion with agitation in organic solvents commonly used for the purpose. This process consists of cleaning, centrifugal extraction and finishing (including re-oiling where necessary to restore colour
23、 and pressing where necessary to restore shape) 3 Performance When tested in accordance with BS7269-2, a garment or composite test specimen shall comply with the requirements given in Table 1. NOTEIt is unlikely that a garment or composite test specimen made from leather that does not comply with BS
24、6453 will comply with the requirements given in Table 1. 4 Extractable oil content and allocation of star rating 4.1 Extractable oil content The extractable oil content of each type and colour of leather shall be determined in accordance with method4 of BS1309. This figure shall be recorded to the n
25、earest integer percent. 4.2 Allocation of star rating 4.2.1 If the leather garment contains leather of only one type and colour, a star rating shall be allocated as given in Table 2. Table 1 Drycleanability performance requirements for leather garments Table 2 Allocation of star rating 4.2.2 If the
26、leather garment contains leathers of more than one type and/or colour and the extractable oil contents of all the leathers fall in the same range as given in Table 2, the appropriate star rating as given in Table 2 shall be allocated. 4.2.3 If the leather garment contains leathers of more than one t
27、ype and/or colour and the extractable oil contents of all the leathers do not fall in the same range as given in Table 2, the instructions on the allocation of star rating, as given inA.2, shall be followed. Property Requirement after cleaning and finishing Colour change Maximum colour change3-4 a)
28、outer b) trim c) lining d) panel to panel Finish loss a) base coat b) top coat No loss of material of the base coat Maximum colour change4 Dimensional stability to drycleaning Maximum linear change in any direction a) outer b) lining 3% (shrinkage or extension) Mechanical damage to No visible damage
29、 a) the outer b) the trim c) the lining d) the stitching Loss of adhesion of seams and interlining Migration of adhesive Puckering of seams No visible loss of adhesion, migration of adhesive or puckering of seams Change in texture, handle and surface appearance of garment Minimal change Extractable
30、oil content Star rating %(m/m) 0 1to5 6to10 above10 No star One star (i.e.*) Two stars (i.e.* *) Three stars (i.e.* * *)BS7269-1:1991 2 BSI 12-1999 5 Content of leather garment care label From the results obtained by testing in accordance with BS7269-2, a leather garment care label shall be obtained
31、 by the following procedure. a) Select the symbol from Table 3, which indicates the dry cleaning solvent(s). b) Select the appropriate star rating from Table 4, which indicates the extractable oil content and the degree of re-oiling necessary. c) Combine the symbols as in the example given in Table
32、5. 6 Marking The garment shall be labelled with the following information: a) the name and/or trade mark of the manufacturer or the organization responsible for labelling the leather garment; b) an appropriate leather garment care label in accordance with clause5 of this Part of BS7269; c) the numbe
33、r and date of this BritishStandard, i.e.BS7269-1:1991 1) . Table 3 Symbols used to indicate suitable drycleaning solvents for leather garments that do not require re-oiling with triolein 1) Marking BS7269-1:1991 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e
34、.a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also
35、 be desirable. Symbol Interpretation 1 Articles that are suitable for drycleaning in tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene) or trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113) or trichlorofluoromethane (solvent11) using leather drycleaning procedures and that should not require any oil in the second bath 2 Ar
36、ticles that are suitable for drycleaning in trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113) using leather drycleaning procedures and that should not require any oil in the second bath 3 Articles that are suitable for drycleaning in tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene) or trichlorofluoromethane (solvent11)
37、but not trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113) using leather drycleaning procedures and that should not require any oil in the second bath 4 Articles that are suitable for drycleaning in tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene) or trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113), but not trichlorofluoromethane (
38、solvent11) using leather drycleaning procedures and which should not require any oil in the second bathBS7269-1:1991 BSI 12-1999 3 Table 4 Use of the star rating to indicate the extractable oil content and to imply the degree of re-oiling necessary Table 5 Example of combining the star rating of Tab
39、le 4 with the drycleaning solvent symbol of Table 3 to produce a leather garment care label No star The absence of a star indicates an original extractable oil content of0% (m/m) and implies that the leather will require no re-oiling One star (i.e.*) One star indicates an original extractable oil co
40、ntent of1% (m/m) to5% (m/m) and implies that the leather will require minimal re-oiling Two stars (i.e.* *) Two stars indicate an original extractable oil content of6% (m/m) to10% (m/m) and imply that the leather will require moderate re-oiling Three stars (i.e.* * *) Three stars indicate an origina
41、l extractable oil content in excess of10% (m/m) and imply that the leather will require a high level of re-oiling Leather garment suitable for drycleaning in solvents in category1 of Table 3, and containing extractable oil as given in category3 of Table 4 NOTEThe symbols below are given for guidance
42、 only and do not apply to leather garments covered by this Part of BS7269. Do not dryclean; sponge with a weak solution of a suitable mild soap or detergent. Do not dryclean; wash with a weak solution of a suitable mild soap or detergent.BS7269-1:1991 4 BSI 12-1999 Appendix A Guidance for garment ma
43、nufacturers A.1 Solvent selection This Part of BS7269 follows BS2747 in that a garment which is drycleanable in tetrachloroethylene (perchloroethylene) is also assumed to be drycleanable in trichlorofluoromethane (solvent11) and1,1,2-trichlorotrifluoroethane (solvent113). Table 3 allows the use of a
44、dditional wording to exclude any unsuitable solvents where this assumption is unfounded. Attention is drawn to BS1006:DO1, which provides a laboratory method for determining the fastness of leather to drycleaning. This method specifies the use of tetrachloroethylene but can be used satisfactorily wi
45、th other drycleaning solvents. If the specimen complies with the requirements given in Table 1 when tested in tetrachloroethylene, the leather can be tested using method DO1 of BS1006 but using solvent11 and solvent113. If the leather meets the colourfastness requirements set out in BS6453 when test
46、ed using these solvents, the specimen acquires a label. If the results for solvent11 and/or solvent113 are unsatisfactory, the exclusions given in Table 3 are added to the symbol. If the specimen does not meet the requirements given in Table 1 when tested in tetrachloroethylene, the results for solv
47、ent113 should be used and if the specimen is satisfactory it should acquire a label. If the garment is made from two leathers and one leather is cleanable only in tetrachloroethylene and the other is cleanable only in solvent113, it is unlikely that the garment would comply with this Part of BS7269.
48、 A.2 Allocation of star rating In most cases the allocation of the star rating will be adequately covered by4.2 and4.3. However, if the garment contains leathers of more than one type and/or colour and the extractable oil contents of all the leathers do not fall in the same range as given in Table 2
49、, allocate a star rating as follows. a) If the colour of one leather only is likely to be affected by oil content (the other leathers being, for example, grain leathers), allocate a star rating corresponding to the extractable oil content of that leather. b) If the colour of more than one leather is likely to be affected by oil content, and the extractable oil contents of these leathers all lie in two of the ranges given in Table 2 that are adjacent, allocate a star rating corresponding to the lower extractable oil content. c) If the colour of more tha
