1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016T e x t i l e s Q u a n t i t a t i v eanalysis of cashmere, wool,other specialty animal fibersand their blendsPart 1: Light Microscopy methodBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN IS
2、O17751-1:2016. The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee TCI/80, Chemical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of
3、 a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards Institution 2016.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2016ISBN 978 0 580 82617 7ICS 59.060.10Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under th
4、e authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 April 2016.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate T e x t a f f e c t e dEUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN ISO 17751-1 April 2016 ICS 59.060.10 English Version Textiles - Quantitative analysis of cashmere,
5、 wool, other specialty animal fibers and their blends - Part 1: Light Microscopy method (ISO 17751-1:2016) Textiles - Analyse quantitative du cachemire, de la laine, dautres fibres animales spciales et leurs mlanges - Partie 1: Mthode de microscopie optique (ISO 17751-1:2016) Textilien - Quantitativ
6、e Analyse von Kaschmir, Wolle, anderen speziellen tierischen Fasern und deren Mischungen - Teil 1: Lichtmikroskopie-Verfahren (ISO 17751-1:2016) This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 December 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate t
7、he conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standar
8、d exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the nation
9、al standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slova
10、kia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnited Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2016 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means
11、reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN ISO 17751-1:2016 EBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016EN ISO 17751-1:2016 (E) 3 European foreword This document (EN ISO 17751-1:2016) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles“ in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textile
12、s and textile products” the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest b
13、y October 2016. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standa
14、rds organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Lux
15、embourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 17751-1:2016 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 17751-1:2016 without any modification. BS EN ISO 17751-1:2016ISO 17751-1:2
16、016(E)Foreword ivIntroduction v1 Scope . 12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions . 14 Principle 25 Apparatus, materials, and reagents 25.1 Apparatus 25.2 Materials . 25.3 Reagents 36 Drawing of laboratory sample and conditioning 37 Preparation of the test specimens . 37.1 Number of test spe
17、cimens . 37.2 Preparation of the test specimens 37.2.1 Loose fibre . 37.2.2 Sliver . 37.2.3 Yarn 37.2.4 Woven fabrics . 47.2.5 Knitted fabrics 47.3 Decolouring of the laboratory sample 48 Test procedure 48.1 Settings of magnification with micrometer scale 48.2 Fibre identification and fibre diameter
18、 measurement . 49 Calculation of test result . 6Annex A (informative) Drawing of the lot sample and the laboratory sample . 8Annex B (informative) Decolouration . 9Annex C (informative) Surface morphology of common animal fibres .10Annex D (normative) Density of common animal fibres 40Bibliography .
19、41 ISO 2016 All rights reserved iiiContents PageBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016ISO 17751-1:2016(E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
20、through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO coll
21、aborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approv
22、al criteria needed for the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the sub
23、ject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).Any trad
24、e name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not constitute an endorsement.For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISOs adherence to the WTO principles in the Tec
25、hnical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: Foreword - Supplementary informationThe committee responsible for this document is ISO/TC 38, Textiles.ISO 17751 consists of the following parts, under the general title Textiles Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fi
26、bres and their blends: Part 1: Light microscopy method Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy methodiv ISO 2016 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016ISO 17751-1:2016(E)IntroductionCashmere is a high-value specialty animal fibre, but cashmere and other animal wool fibres such as sheeps wool, yak, c
27、amel, etc. exhibit great similarities in their physical and chemical properties, so that their blends are difficult to distinguish from each other by both mechanical and chemical methods. In addition, these fibres show similar scale structures. It is very difficult to accurately determine the fibre
28、content of such fibre blends by current testing means.Research on the accurate identification of cashmere fibres has been a long undertaking. At present, the most widely used and reliable identification techniques include the light microscopy (LM) method and the scanning electron microscopy (SEM). T
29、he SEM method shows complementary characteristics to those of LM method. The advantage of the LM method is that the internal medullation and pigmentation of fibres can be observed; the disadvantage is that some subtle surface structures cannot be clearly displayed. A decolouring process needs to be
30、carried out on dark samples for testing. An improper decolouring process can affect the judgment of the fibre analyst. The SEM method shows opposite characteristics to those of LM method so some types of fibres need to be identified by scanning electron microscope. The LM and SEM methods need be use
31、d together to identify some difficult-to-identify samples in order to utilize the advantages of both methods.It has been proven in practice that the accuracy of a fibre analysis is highly related to the ample experience, full understanding, and extreme familiarity of the fibre analyst to the surface
32、 morphology of various types of animal fibres so besides the textual descriptions, several micrographs of different types of animal fibres are given in Annex C. ISO 2016 All rights reserved vBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016BS EN ISO 17751-1:2016Textiles Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty
33、 animal fibers and their blends Part 1: Light microscopy method1 ScopeThis part of ISO 17751 specifies a method for the identification, qualitative, and quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends using light microscopy (LM).This part of ISO 17751 is app
34、licable to loose fibres, intermediate-products, and final products of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated
35、references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this document, the following terms and de
36、finitions apply.3.1specialty animal fibreany type of keratin fibre taken from animals (hairs) other than sheep3.2light microscopeoptical instrument used to produce magnified images utilizing visible light sourceNote 1 to entry: Types of microscopes suitable for fibre identification include projectio
37、n microscopes and visual microscopic image analysers. Transmittedlight type microscopes with direct graduated scale equipped on optical lens are also applicable.3.3scalecuticle covering the surface of animal fibres3.4scale frequencynumber of scales (3.3) along the fibre axis per unit length3.5scale
38、heightheight of the cuticle at the scales (3.3) distal edgeINTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 17751-1:2016(E) ISO 2016 All rights reserved 1BS EN ISO 17751-1:2016ISO 17751-1:2016(E)3.6fibre surface morphologysum of the physical properties/attributes characterizing the fibre surfaceEXAMPLE The fibre surface
39、morphology includes scale frequency (3.4), scale height (3.5), patterns of scale edge, scale surface smoothness, fibre evenness along its axis, transparency under light microscope (3.2), etc.3.7lot sampleportion representative of the same type and same lot of material drawn according to the requirem
40、ents from which it is taken3.8laboratory sampleportion drawn from a lot sample (3.7) according to the requirements for preparing specimens3.9test specimenportion taken from fibre snippets randomly cut from a laboratory sample (3.8) for measurement purposes4 PrincipleA longitudinal view image of fibr
41、e snippets representative of a test specimen is magnified to an appropriate scale/size under an optical microscope. All the fibre types found in the test specimen are identified by comparing them with known fibre surface morphologies for different types of animal fibres.For each fibre type, the numb
42、er and mean diameters of the fibre snippets are counted and measured. The mass fraction is calculated from the data for the number of fibre snippets counted, mean value and standard deviation of the snippet diameter, and the true density of each fibre type.5 Apparatus, materials, and reagents5.1 App
43、aratus5.1.1 Projection microscope, comprised of a light source, a light condenser, a stage, an objective, an ocular, and a circular transparent viewing screen or non-transparent projection table with a graduated scale in millimetres. The objective and ocular shall be capable of providing at least a
44、magnification of 500 at the screen.5.1.2 Visual microscopic image analyser, comprised of a microscope, a camera, a computer, a data acquisition card, exclusive analysing software, and a display. The objective and ocular of the microscope shall be capable of providing at least a magnification of 500.
45、5.1.3 Transmitted-light type microscope, comprised of a light source, a light condenser, a stage, an objective, and an ocular with a graduated scale. The objective and ocular of this type of microscope shall be capable of providing a magnification of 400 to 500.5.2 Materials5.2.1 Microtome.5.2.2 Sci
46、ssors, tweezers, cleaning fabric, watch-glass, etc.5.2.3 Slides and cover glasses.2 ISO 2016 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 17751-1:2016ISO 17751-1:2016(E)5.2.4 Wedge scale, with divisions of 500 magnification. A moveable linear rule-type scale finely graduated in millimetres may also be used.5.3 Reag
47、ents5.3.1 Liquid paraffin with a refractive index between 1,43 and 1,53.6 Drawing of laboratory sample and conditioning6.1 Drawing methods for lot samples and laboratory samples are given in Annex A.6.2 The laboratory sample shall be conditioned for at least 4 h under the standard atmospheres stipul
48、ated in ISO 139.7 Preparation of the test specimens7.1 Number of test specimensPrepare one or more slides so that at least 1 000 fibres shall be identified.7.2 Preparation of the test specimens7.2.1 Loose fibre7.2.1.1 Place the laboratory sample flat on the test table, pick up approximately 500 mg o
49、f fibres randomly on not less than 20 spots with tweezers (5.2.2) from the top and bottom sides of the sample. Blend them homogeneously and divide them into three equal portions. Sort these drawn fibres into basically parallel fibre bundles.7.2.1.2 Cut each fibre bundle in the middle with a microtome (5.2.1) to get approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets. Cut only once in each of the fibre bundles.7.2.1.3 Place all the fibre snippets on the watch glass, drop an appropriate amount of liquid paraffin (5.3.1), stir with tweezers (5.2.2) to m
