1、 FORD LABORATORY TEST METHODBN 159-01 Date Action Revisions 2010 06 11 Activated M. Dumitrescu, NA Printed copies are uncontrolled Copyright 2010, Ford Global Technologies, LLC Page 1 of 4 DETERMINATION OF BROKEN FABRIC FIBERS IN A SEWN SEAM Application This procedure is used to determine the cut or
2、 break resistance of the knit fabric yarn/fiber to the sewing needle during sewing process. Equipment Required Fixtures Fixture shown in Figure 2 or equivalent. Clamps - vice grip clamps The bar clamps must allow a maximum 300 mm width of test specimens to be accommodated. The clamps used on each en
3、d of the test specimens shall grip the sample firmly and evenly across the ends. Weight A weight is attached to the clamp on the suspended end of the test specimen. The clamp and the weight together shall total 12.25 kg (27 lb) unless otherwise specified. Sewing Machine An Industrial Sewing Machine
4、capable of producing a lock stitched seam as described under Procedure. Needle Fabric Supplier to recommend the appropriate production representative needle size/type Thread WSS-M15H51-B2 respectively or equivalent TEX 90, for top and bottom, unless otherwise specified in the Engineering Material Sp
5、ecification. Brush Brush Bristles black nylon, 0.25mm (10-mil) diameter. Source - The Fuller Brush Co Conditioning and Test Conditions All test values indicated herein are based on material conditioned in a controlled atmosphere of 23 +/- 2 C and 50 +/- 5% relative humidity for not less than 24 h pr
6、ior to testing and tested under the same conditions unless otherwise specified. FORD LABORATORY TEST METHODBN 159-01 Printed copies are uncontrolled Copyright 2010, Ford Global Technologies, LLC Page 2 of 4 Procedure 1. Cut specimens of 300 x 160 mm dimensions from the fabric sample as follows: Cutt
7、ing direction of 300 mm Number of sewn test specimens Sewing direction of specimens With Machine Direction (WMD) 3 WMD to WMD Against Machine Direction (AMD) 3 AMD to AMD 3 Bias to WMD Bias 45o 3 Bias to AMD Unless otherwise specified, samples shall be taken a minimum of one tenth the width from the
8、 selvage edge or no closer than 305 mm (12 in) from either end of the roll. 2 Prepare the test specimen by sewing each pair of cut samples along 300 mm side as shown in figure 1. Back tack samples to represent the production sewing process. Use a new needle to sew a new set of specimen. 3 Clamp the
9、test specimen in assembly with the 300 mm side parallel to the clamps. Fasten the clamps firmly at each end of test specimen. 4 The upper bar clamp is attached to the supporting fixture and suspend the required (12.25 kg or 27 lbs) weight to the lower weight. 5 Allow the specimen to be suspended ver
10、tically for 5 minutes. Then brush along the seam line back and forth for 5 cycles using moderate pressure. Sewn-Seam Construction The stitch shall be a simple lock stitch with a stitch length of 4.0 5.0 mm (6+/-1 stitches/25 mm) and shall run 8 mm (+/- 2 mm) from the cut edges of the test specimen.
11、Evaluation Examine the sewn seam for broken yarn and/or fibers and count the number of broken yarns and/or fibers per 250 mm of seam length. Report the results as the average of the total number of broken fibers/3 specimens tested in each direction. Do not evaluate the outer 25 mm at each end of the
12、 seam. Report Criteria Results Needle Type Thread Construction (Ford material spec or Tex #) WMD to WMD (average) AMD to AMD (average) Bias to WMD (average) Bias to AMD (average) FORD LABORATORY TEST METHODBN 159-01 Printed copies are uncontrolled Copyright 2010, Ford Global Technologies, LLC Page 3
13、 of 4 Materials, parts, and equipment referenced in this document must be used and handled properly. Each party is responsible for determining proper use and handling in its facilities. TEST SPECIMEN Figure 1 Example Sewn Sample 300 mm 160 mm FORD LABORATORY TEST METHODBN 159-01 Printed copies are uncontrolled Copyright 2010, Ford Global Technologies, LLC Page 4 of 4 FIXTURE Figure 2 Test set-up Load is being applied at the center of the sample. LOWER ASSEMBLY+ WEIGHT = 12.25 KG
