1、 m 9999906 2042373 725 m I INCH-POUND I MIL-DTL-8 2 194C (MC) 29 July 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-0-82194B (MC) 28 February 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION ORNAMENTATION - FOR JACKET, MANS, EVENING DRESS, OFFICERS This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the Navy, and is availab
2、le for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers requirements for ornamentation components for the mens evening dress jacket. 1.2. Classification. The ornamentation will be of the following types and classes, and sizes, as specif
3、ied (see 6.2). Type II and III ornamentation will be furnished in pairs, right and left, for all types. I i Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Sys
4、tems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I I AMSC N/A FSC 8455 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo
5、reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m 0b 2042374 bbL - , MIL-DTL-82194C (MC) * Type I - Collar ornamentation Class 1 - Standard (2 inch finished width of collar). Class 2 - Special (1-3/4 inch finished width of collar). Schedule of sizes 16 16-1/2 17 17-1/2 Type II - Sh
6、oulder strap Schedule of sizes 5-1/4 5-3/8 5-1/2 5-5/8 18 18-1/2 5-3/4 5-7/8 Type III - Sleeve ornamentation Class 1 - General Officer Insignia Class 2 - Field Grade Officer Insignia Class 3 - Company Grade Officer Insignia 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. in sections 3 and 4 of this specificat
7、ion. include documents cited in other sections of this specification or recommended for additional information or as examples. every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3
8、 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed. The documents listed in this section are specified This section does not While 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document
9、to the extent specified herein. specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduct
10、ion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-m Ob 20Q2375 5T8 m MIL-DTL-82194C (MC) c SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50 18 6 - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven A-A-50 19 6 - Thread, Silk DDD-L-20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage (General Use) V-T-295 - Thread, Nylon DEPARTMENT O
11、F DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461 - Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-E-17568 - Embroidery Materials, Metallic and Synthetic Metallic MIL-C-29405 - Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon MIL-DTL-82193 - Jacket, Mans - Evening Dress (Officers) S
12、TANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are avaiiable from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The
13、following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in th
14、e DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes (Application for copies should be addressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036) Department of
15、Defense (DoD) Standard Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-= 0b 2042376 434 MIL-DTL- 82 194C (MC) (Copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc.
16、, 409 W. 44th Street, New York, NY 10016-0927) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been
17、obtained. Nothing in this document, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When
18、 specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Backqround material. The background material for all types of ornamentation shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, dark blue, shade 2307 conforming to type I of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.2 E
19、mbroidery materials. The synthetic gold embroidery materials used in fabrication of ornamentation items shall conform to type III, classes 8 or 11 of MIL-E-17568. 3.3.2.1. Synthetic sold border. scarlet silk embroidery on the sleeve ornamentation shall be fabricated from two plies of synthetic yarn
20、listed in 3.3.2, twisted together in a right hand twist having 14 to 16 twists per inch. The border used to outline the 3.3.3 Thread. 3.3.3.1. Embroidery thread. shall be best quality pure silk conforming to type I, ticket No. 00, 3-ply of A-A-50196. The color shall be scarlet, shade W, cable No. 66
21、040. The silk thread for the embroidery 3.3.3.2. Sewinq thread. synthetic gold shall be type I, ticket No. A, 3-ply of A-A-50196. The color shall be gold, shade TX, cable No. 66087, or mercerized 4 The silk thread for stitching the Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted
22、 without license from IHS-,-,-* 9 999990b 2042177 370 MIL-DTL-82194C (MC) nylon thread of equal strength and matching color may be used when ornamentation is required to be finished. The nylon thread for edge stitching shall conform to type I, class A, size AA, 2 or 3-ply of V-T-295. The color shall
23、 be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043 (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). 3.3.3.3. Colorfastness. The colored threads, when tested as specified in the applicable thread specification, shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning and light equal to or be
24、tter than the standard sample. When no standard is available, the colored thread shall show good fastness to wet cleaning and light. 3.3.4 Backinq and underlay for embroidery. 3.3.4.1. Crinoline. Backing for the scarlet silk embroidery shall be cotton crinoline, black, 2.8 ounce per square yard, hav
25、ing a thread count of approximately 44 per inch in the warp direction, and 35 per inch in the filling direction, and a breaking strength (grab) of approximately 54 pounds in the warp direction and 25 pounds in the filling direction. 3.3.4.2. Underlay. Underlay for the scarlet silk and synthetic gold
26、 embroidery shall be of the type used in best commercial practice. Underlay for the scarlet silk embroidery thread shall have a scarlet color on the upper surface to closely match the shade of the thread. Underlay materials shall be flexible so as to not crack when bent. 3.3.5 Buttons, and button to
27、qqles. Sleeve ornamentation shall be provided with three metal, gold plated, Marine Corps insignia buttons, 27 line, regular shank, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 1 of MIL-DTL-3461. Buttons shall be secured to the ornamentation with ring fasteners conforming to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.6
28、Lininq. The material for lining the ornamentation shall be cloth, twill, rayon, black, shade 2604, 3.7 ounce conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.7 Interlininq. The material for interlining the sleeve and collar ornamentation shall be cloth buckram, cotton, 3.5 to 5 ounce, conforming to type III
29、of A-A-50186. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-82194C (MC) ITEM 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 PATTERN NOMENCLATURE NO. OF CUT PARTS Material: Cloth, broadcloth, wool Collar 1 Shoulder straps 2 Sleeve patch 2 Material: Cloth, twill, ra
30、yon (lining) Collar 1 Shoulder strap 2 Sleeve patch 2 Material: Cloth, buckram, cotton (interlining) Collar 1 Sleeve patch 2 Finished sleeve patch and button Marker 1 marker Shaper Finished collar shaper 1 3.4. Desiqn. The embroidery design, and the design of the finished ornamentation shall be as s
31、hown on Figures 1 through 5 and shall conform to the approved samples. 3.5. Patterns. The standard patterns for the collar, shoulder strap, and sleeve patch shall be furnished by the Government and shall not be altered in any manner and shall be used only as a guide for cutting working patterns. Pat
32、terns for collars and shoulder straps are for the sizes indicated in 1.2 and 3.7. 3.6. Construction. 3.6.1 Manufacturinq requirements. The ornamentation shall be constructed of materials specified herein and shall include details shown on applicable figures and as specified herein. contractor is not
33、 required to follow the exact sequence of operations as specified herein, but all operations specified shall be used to manufacture the ornamentation. The 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-b MIL-DTL-82194C (MC) 0 3.6.1.1. Tacking. End
34、s of stitching shall be securely backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. 3.6.1.2. Identification markinq. The collar and sleeve patches shall be marked for type and class (see 1.2). The shoulder straps shall be marked by size. Labels shall conform to types IV or V, class 2 of DDD-L-SO. 3.6.1.3. Cuttinq.
35、Cut the collar, shoulder straps and sleeve ornamentation patches with patterns furnished by the Government. Cut material in the direction indicated by directional lines on the patterns. 3.6.2 Collar ornamentation. Collar ornamentation shall consist of a single line of scarlet silk embroidery outline
36、d with one continuous length of synthetic gold border (see 3.3.2.1) along top and ends of collar as shown on Figure 4. The scarlet silk embroidery shall be made through the crinoline backing. Silk embroidery shall have sufficient underlay to produce well raised and rounded effect. The embroidered st
37、itches shall be tightly and closely drawn so as to produce a clear, sharp, straight edge outline of the required design, with the corners sharp and distinct. The density of the stitches shall be such as to provide full coverage of the underlay material, which shall have the scarlet surface next to t
38、he stitching. The synthetic gold border shall be securely stitched on with not less than 10 stitches per inch. Stitching shall be through the crinoline backing. The stitched on gold border shall be straight and even without twisting, curling or other distortion, and shall be sewn as close as possibl
39、e to both sides and ends of the silk embroidery. Ends of the border shall start and finish at one of the inside corners of the silk embroidery and shall be securely stitched down. The finished width of the silk embroidery shall be 1/8 inch, and the finished width of the embroidery including the bord
40、er shall be 1/4 inch. The ends of the embroidery shall finish evenly at the ends of the collar and, after the collar is assembled to jacket, shall finish 3/16 to 1/4 inch from lower edge of collar. 3.6.3 Shoulder strap ornamentation. Shoulder strap ornamentation shall consist of a single line of sca
41、rlet silk embroidery outlined with synthetic gold border around all edges of the strap as shown on Figure 5. The scarlet silk embroidery shall be made through the crinoline backing. Silk embroidery shall have sufficient underlay to produce a well raised and 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc
42、tion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-W 9999906 2042180 965 W MIL-DTL-82 194C (MC) b rounded effect. closely drawn so as to produce a clear, sharp, straight edge outline .of the required design, with the corners sharp and distinct. The density of the stitches shall be such as to
43、provide full coverage of the underlay material, which shall have the scarlet surface next to the stitching. securely stitched on with not less than 10 stitches per inch. Stitching shall be through the crinoline backing. on border shall be straight and even without twisting, curling or other distorti
44、on, and shall be made as close as possible to both sides of the silk embroidery. securely stitched down. shall be constructed as specified in MIL-DTL-82193. width of the silk embroidery shall be 1/8 inch, and the finished width of the embroidery including the border shall be 1/4 inch. Width of finis
45、hed shoulder straps shall be 2-3/4 inches at the armhole end tapering to 1-3/4 inches one inch from the collar end. The embroidered stitches shall be tightly and The border shall be The stitched Ends of the border shall be Shoulder straps to be furnished finished The finished 3.6.4 Sleeve ornamentat
46、ion. Sleeve ornamentation of each class shall consist of a single line of scarlet silk embroidery outlined with one continuous length of synthetic gold border along the top, front, and bottom edges, with gold oak leaf and acorn design along inside of embroidered edges on class 1 and 2 ornamentation
47、and with gold clover leaf design centered on class 3 sleeve ornamentation, as shown on Figures 1, 2, and 3. The back edge of the sleeve ornamentation shall have three points (see Figures 1, 2, and 3), made in accordance with patterns furnished. Dimensions of finished sleeve ornamentation shall be 6-
48、1/2 inches at top edge, 5-1/2 inches at front edge, and 5-3/4 inches at bottom edge, measured as shown on Figures 1, 2, and 3. 3.6.4.1. Silk embroidery and synthetic sold border. silk embroidery shall be made through the crinoline backing. Silk embroidery raised and rounded effect. The embroidery st
49、itches shall be tightly and closely drawn so as to produce a clear, sharp, straight edge outline of the required design, with the corners sharp and distinct, The density of the stitches shall be such as to provide full coverage of the underlay material, which shall have the scarlet surface next to the stitching. The border shall be securely stitched on with not less than 10 stitches per inch. Stitching shall be through the cr
