1、A Study of Possibility of Improvement of Physical &Mechanical Characteristics of Damask Fabrics,Assoc. Professor Dr. Taher Rajab Kaddar Department of Textile and Spinning Engineering Faculty of Chemical and Petroleum Engineering AL-Baath University - Syria E - mail : dr.t-kaddmail.sy,Third Internati
2、onal Textile Conference on Textile and Clothing , Lahore ,Pakistan 28th and 29th March 2011 Pearl Continental Hotel Lahore,2,A Study of Possibility of Improvement of Physical &Mechanical Characteristics of Damask Fabrics,Dr. Taher Rajab Kaddar Associate ProfessorDepartment of Textile and Spinning En
3、gineeringFaculty of Chemical and Petroleum EngineeringAL-Baath UniversitySyria E-mail :dr.t-kaddmail.sy,3,1-Introduction,1-Introduction: Syrian textile industry works to enhancing the marketing of their products. The physical and mechanical properties play an important role in achieving competitiven
4、ess.The Damask Fabrics are a significant heritage products in Syria. Damask Fabrics manufacturing technology, was one of the five weaving technologies centers in Byzantine and Islamic in the early Middle Ages .It has been in the last century and in this century manufactured from silk , cotton. as Br
5、oker fabrics , Damask Fabrics , Al-Aagbani, Those textiles are still popular despite the competition with foreign industry . It draw the attention of foreigners in Damascus, and they buy them for their friends and relatives in their country.It is enough to know that the wedding dress of Queen Elizab
6、eth II of Britain was made of the Damascus Brokar tissues. in 1947.,4,1-Introduction,Todays Damask must achieve the requirements of international standard specifications, in order to withstand the challenges which it faces. We have been in this research the definition , Damask history production . T
7、hrough the practical study in a national company (General Company for spinning and weaving Damascus) were studied physical and mechanical properties of Damask produced in the country (type of yarn used, the linear density of Yarns, tensile strength and elongation of the cloth in the direction of war
8、p and weft, weight per square & longitudinal meter, weave, width, )We are produced two new improved varieties with new specifications according to international market requirements to enhance the competitiveness of the company, which makes the Syrian textile industry more effectively. Research const
9、itutes an important contribution in continuous improvement & development of Syrian textile companies.The search results can be applied in all similar textile companies,5,When you mention the word Damask, comes to mind immediately the name of Damascus, Syria , called Damask of Fame to Damascus produc
10、ed by the manufacture of other textiles of high quality. These industries have become a distinctive part of the heritage of Syria. It was made of silk or cotton or linen and is now produced from any raw materials as possible. Damascus people transferred its industry to Andalusia so its called accord
11、ing to Damascus, Damask has many types such as Atlas and Al-Thabori and Hermazi and AL-Munier (Enlightening) , AL-Mushem ( Contributor ) and Baptist and Corrugated and Ragged Rainy and Almekhel.Damask width was 145 cm , now has increased to 220 cm.It has lost market share after the nineteenth centur
12、y out of Muslim Spain, but that it was rarely in some places in the thirteenth century. 2, 17, 18. Italy Damask industry began in the fourteenth century. It is the fourteenth century until the sixteenth century Damask was made in one color drawings of shiny face on the cloth and normal ground. Then
13、was woven from colors yarn , and have been introduced in the metal yarn in its construction, such as gold and other weft yarn , which gave it a glamorous and beautiful.,2 A brief history,6,2 A brief history,Damascus is famous in textile manufacturing . (Qaimariya) is called in small India , and depe
14、nding on the popularity of this industry , the textile trade is concentrated in Damascus .The industry is still present even today.During the reign of Louis XVI and his wife Marie Antoinette of Austria at the age of 15 years, married to Louis XVI at the age of 19 years. After months attended a fashi
15、on designer and offered her a cloth and said shell like it because it is very rare and is made in an eastern town known for textile industry and when she saw it said (this is what I want and what I wanted to, Ive really liked Damask, Damascus Brokare (Brocade) is unmatched which is befitting for lad
16、ies. And spread the ancient The newly dramatically all over the world. Modern Damask produced by A Electronic Weaving Machinery equipped with electronic Jacquard and multi-threaded natural and artificial 1,5,8,15,21,24. Used in addition to blankets to clothing and home furnishings, upholstery and ma
17、ny other uses.The Syrian textile industry has risen highly, it is one of the important industries which the government is trying through its plans to overcome all the obstacles encountered in order to create the right atmosphere for Arab and foreign investors to invest in it. It is an strategy indus
18、try, depends on the Syrian cotton yarn locally available in abundance.,3 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage,There are more than a hundred kind of traditional fabrics, each type of about twenty species, characterized by some of the material and color, drawing, patterns and trimmings, etc. H
19、ere are some of them:Brokare ( Brocade) : A silk cloth decorated with beautiful drawings interspersed with gold thread and silver. Al-Dema : A fabric invented by man of Damascus . Al-Saieh : epigraphy technical fabric is characterized by bright, made from silk and cotton in different colors. Al-Alaj
20、h: type of Alsaih . Blanket: the advantage of fees obtrusiveAl-Agbani: Cloth made from silk, embroidered after waving with brocaded thread or yellow or silver, each drawing or embroidering take a special name . Damask: Gabardine and thick fabric , tapestries weaved his body to the degree of innovati
21、on, has gained wide fame, fit the faces of mattresses and sofas. Poplars Fashions : A modern industry based on making clothing suitable for use embroidered women blouses made of Brocade coats and womens decorative lacy and other popular clothing represent the various Syrian cities and rural areas. T
22、able1 and Table 2 include Some types of a Damask fabrics. In spite of that machinery textile industries dominated heavily on fabrics manufactured on hand looms , but it are still top of wings exhibitions interested in this kind of art textile .,8,3 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage,Table
23、1 Some types of Damask fabrics,9,3 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage,10,4 - Methods of producing A Damask fabrics,4-1 - The traditional method for the manufacture of A Damask fabrics:Traditional fabrics are produced currently on hand looms and is as old and low-productivity, Its maintaine
24、d for the purposes of tourism and are stationed in Damascus as a Professional market , Silk market and Azemeh Palace Museum Figure 1.26 , 27 . Stages of the manufacturing from natural silk: Kababp( winder) to El-Fattal (twister), and Mosadi(wrapper) and dyer , Almozaiki , Mulki (drawing in) , Weaver
25、 and dakkak (dropper) and then turn the fabric to the piston.,11,4-1 - The traditional method for the manufactureof A Damask fabrics,From Damascus city syria Figure 1 hand loom,12,4 2 - The mechanical method for the manufacture of A Damask,Figure 2 shuttle less weaving machine (Ruti),13,4-3 The elec
26、tronically method for the manufacture of A Damask,4-3 - The electronically method for the manufacture of A Damask:New Damask are made of 100% cotton yarn on electronically jacquard weaving machines, used in upholstery and curtains, mattress covers and bedspreads. This development has allowed to move
27、 the 30 000 hooks and speed of 700 rpm 6 , 7,8, 9, 10, 12, 13 ,14, 23,. The manufacturers of jacquard machines are : Grosse and Schleicher (Germany) ,Bonas( England) and Staubli (France). Stages of technology for the manufacture of Damask of cotton yarn: warping - draw in - Weaving .,14,5- Case Stud
28、y,5- Case Study5-1 - Introduction: The study was conducted in a public company (General Company for Spinning and Weaving Company Damascus), which produces cotton yarn & fabrics, dyed, mercerized and printed. It contains factories for the spinning and weaving, dyeing. 5-2 - Stages of technology for t
29、he manufacture Damask fabrics of cotton yarn Figure 3 Outline of processes for the production of a Damask fabrics on the modern weaving machinery .Figure 4 Outline of the indirect warping machine BENNINGER.-Weaving Machine: Rapier Weaving Machine G6200 SULZER TEXTIL equipped with electronic Jacquard
30、 machines GROSSE EJP-2 with 5376 hooks.,15,Figure 3 - technological stapes for the manufacture of Damask fabrics of cotton yarn,Figure 3 - technological stapes for the manufacture of Damask fabrics of cotton yarn,16,indirect warping machine BENNINGER,Figure 4 A diagram of a indirect warping machine
31、BENNINGER,17,5-3 - Steps of design and manufacturing of A Damask Fabric aided by computer computer,The design section consists of the following devices: scanner, computer and keyboard, graphic table unite and the printer. German software 10,20 : (GROSSE PROFETIONAL JACQUARD DESIGNE SYSTEM (JAC-ARTIS
32、T PRO). Table 2 consists steps of design and manufacture of computer-assisted Damask:,Table 2 the following steps for the implementation of computer-aided design,18,5-4- laboratory equipment,5-4- laboratory equipment :count of yarn -SUPERBA to check sliver and yarns, Tex Techno Statimat Me: to exami
33、ne the tensile strength of yarn and fabrics3,4,16, 20,22. .5-5- Raw materials used for weaving Damask fabrics: Using single-threaded or doubling colored. The table 3 shows Results of tests:,Table 3 shows Results of tests,19,5-6 - Types of Damask Fabrics which were studded :,5-6 - Types of Damask Fab
34、rics which were studded :Newly Damask are of cotton or synthetic yarn, silk, wool , used in modern varieties of clothing , apparel ,upholstery and curtains, mattress covers and bedspreads. Analysis was conducted and a study of A Damask fabrics produced in the company of the Spinning and Weaving was
35、to extract data on the linear density for Yarns - warp and weft densities - weave - weight per square and longitudinal meter, Cloth width - uses of each type - the number of colors. Tables (from 4 to 6) consists the physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics which have been studied and lab
36、oratory tested.,20,Table 4 The physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics,Table 5 physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics,22,Table 6 physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics,5-7 The new and modern types of Damask fabrics,It was designed and produced two new types o
37、f Damask fabrics according to market needs . by GROSSE (CAD / CAM) System German company ,It was conducted the tests of the physical and mechanical characteristics of Damask (1181 ) product , and Damask (2) by modern laboratory devices.Table (7) shows the results of a study of the physical & mechani
38、cal properties of the modern Damask fabrics.,24,Table 7 physical and mechanical properties of the new improved Damask fabrics:,25,5-8 Discussion the results of tests,The Results of tests of tension resistance in direction of warp and weft for the variety Damask (1181) and Damask (2),were documented
39、and analysed .We have established detailed reports of the analysis and testing results of physical and mechanical properties of Damask in the Department of jacquard fabric , and executive instructions relating to its production, and tension strength and elongation diagrams for produced fabrics, were
40、 identified as the values of the terms of the specifications. Observation: we prepared an attachment contains resistance to tension diagrams in direction of weft & warp for all samples,26,5-8 Discussion the results of tests,1 - The test results of the physical and mechanical characteristics of A Dam
41、ask Fabrics , tables (from 4 to 7), and the results of tests of resistance to tension in direction of weft & warp of all fabrics produced meet the quality requirements of both functional and aesthetic, to increase the demand for modern products in market, absence of complaints by customers.2 -The ph
42、ysical & mechanical properties of yarns affect on Damask fabrics , table (3) show disparity between values of the assumed specification and real values, which affect the physical and mechanical properties, it is necessary to provide good yarns for industry .3 - Appears from the table 7 the high valu
43、e of the resistance to tension in direction of warp of the new varieties and increase the weight per square meter of the Damask (1181) and Damask (2) compared with the value of the resistance to tension in direction of warp of the items (705 - 710) in the tables (4-6), due to the use of thick weft y
44、arn in 1181 and a synthetic yarn in the Damask (2) which gives good features .,27,6 - Suggestions and Conclusions,1 - It has been defined and determined the characterization and classification of Damask fabrics and the physical mechanical specification , and it indicate the need to update the design
45、 of Damask to meet the requirements of the tourist industry, which is reflected in the national income , and economic and social development.2 - The study showed that Damask fabrics still enjoys a worldwide reputation for well-built through a long history back for several centuries is still required
46、 in the international market and reflects the Syrian heritage and the nobility of the textile Syrian industry where history come from deep road , for this reason it is recommended the revival of the industry and maintain.,28,6 - Suggestions and Conclusions,3 -The production of new Damask fabrics wit
47、h new drawings and specifications fulfils the requirements of fashion leads to quality & productivity improvement, and increase the products added value, as the selling price of new products increases to 60% . 4 - The development of scientific methodology to study, analyze and diagnose the problems
48、of the textile industry, through the research model, which benefit from it the textile companies and the scientific institutes.,29,6 - Suggestions and Conclusions,5 - The information contained in the research contribute to identify the problems of the state and society and to find solutions and incr
49、ease the stock of knowledge and keep pace with market requirements and develop product lines.6 - The results, reports, laboratory analysis diagrams , which has been documented and saved, constitutes a scientific base for developing the Syrian Standard, which improve the prestige of Damask fabrics in
50、 the international market.,30,7- References,31,7- References,32,Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, Damascus,Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, Damascus,Dr. Eng. Taher Rajab Kaddar Associate Professor Department of Textile and Spinning Engineering Faculty of Chemical and Petroleum EngineeringAL-Baath University-Syria E- mail: dr.t-kaddmail.sy Cell : 00963 933 517314,
