1、Designation: D 6193 09Standard Practice forStitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates
2、the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristicsof stitches and seams used in
3、 the fabrication of sewn items.1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, andgeneral purpose for stitch types and seam types used in thefabrication of sewn items.1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seamsthat include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of thefo
4、llowing sections that are listed in the order in which theyappear:1.3.1 Section 5Classification of Stitch Types for whichdrawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,1.3.2 Section 6Classification of Seam Types for whichdrawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and1.3.3 Annex A1Seam Assembly Recommendation
5、s.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced
6、 Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial orcomplete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needlepassing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThis can also be referred to as ne
7、edlecuts.3.1.2 seam, na line where two or more fabrics are joined,usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapledseam, thermally bonded seam.)3.1.3 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance fromthe edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.4 seam ass
8、embly, nthe composite structure obtainedwhen fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.3.1.5 seam damage, nin sewn fabrics, an adverse changein the physical condition of one or more of the components ina seam which would reduce the seam acceptability such as yarnslippage, needle damage, or fabric rupt
9、ure.3.1.6 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio of seamstrength to fabric strength.3.1.6.1 DiscussionFor some constructions, yarn strengthand stitch type can contribute to a higher seam efficiency value.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacementof the fabric yarn parallel and adja
10、cent to the stitch line.3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des-ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabricpositioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabricseam.3.1.9 sew, vto unite or fasten with stitches.3.1.10 sewing thread, na flexible, small-diameter y
11、arn orstrand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, orboth, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces ofmaterial or an object to a material.3.1.11 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at whichtwo or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joinedby sewing, usually n
12、ear the edge.3.1.12 stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the inter-lacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See alsostitching, and stitch type.)3.1.13 stitch density, nin sewn seams, the number ofstitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.3.1.13.1 DiscussionThis is
13、 usually expressed as stitchesper inch (spi).1This practice is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved Jan. 15, 2009. Published March 2009. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous editi
14、on approved in 2004 as D 6193 97(2004).2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.TABLE 1 Stitch and Sea
15、m DefectsStitch Defects Seam Assembly DefectsLoose stitches PuckersPoorly formed stitches TwistsCrowded stitches PlaitsTight stitches UndulationsCrooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed(felled seams)1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, W
16、est Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.Copyright by ASTM Intl (all rights reserved); Mon Apr 20 21:02:49 EDT 2009Downloaded/printed byGuo Dehua (CNIS) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.3.1.14 stitch gage, nin sewn seams, the perpendiculardistance between adja
17、cent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.15 stitch type, nin sewn seams, a numerical designa-tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing ofsewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.3.1.16 stitching, na series of stitches embodied in amaterial or materials of planar structure such as wo
18、ven textilefabrics usually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge, orboth.3.1.17 yarn slippage, nin sewn seams in sewn fabrics, thedisplacement of one or more yarns from the original position,causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in
19、thispractice, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitchtype, seam configuration, and thread type which should be usedfor a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge ofmany variables. The improper selection of any one compone
20、ntcan result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failureof the product manufactured.4.2 General CharacteristicsThe characteristics of a prop-erly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be pass
21、ed through the material and interlooped with itself on theundersurface of the material.FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A8. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A8 shallbe interlooped with itself and with thread A.F
22、IG. 2 Stitch Type 102NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The threadshall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.FIG. 3
23、Stitch Type 103D6193092Copyright by ASTM Intl (all rights reserved); Mon Apr 20 21:02:49 EDT 2009Downloaded/printed byGuo Dehua (CNIS) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.security, and appearance. These characteristics must be bal-anced with the properties of the mater
24、ial to be joined to formthe optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will governthe relative importance of these characteristics. The selectionof the seam type and stitch type should be based upon theseconsiderations.4.2.1 StrengthThe seam efficiency of the sewn seamshould be as high as possible.
25、This will produce sewn seamstrength with a balanced construction that will withstand theforces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elementsaffecting the strength of a sewn seam are:4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.1.2 Seam type,4.2.1.3 Stitch type,4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.1.5 Th
26、read tension, and4.2.1.6 Thread strength.4.2.2 ElasticityThe elasticity of a sewn seam should beslightly greater than that of the material which it joins. Thiswill enable the material to support its share of the forcesencountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. Theelasticity of a sewn sea
27、m depends upon:4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.2.2 Seam type,4.2.2.3 Stitch type,4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.4.2.3 DurabilityThe durability of a sewn seam dependslargely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seamNOTE 1This type
28、 of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of thebottom ply w
29、ithout penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at thecenter line.FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A8, which shall be passed through the material
30、 in the same perforationsfrom opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201D6193093Copyright by ASTM Intl (all rights reserved); Mon Apr 20 21:02:49 EDT 2009Downloaded/printed byGuo Dehua (CNIS) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.and t
31、he elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic,tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for theplies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewnseam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefullychosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully de
32、ter-mined for the material so as not to cause excess tension whichwill unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is alsoimportant to minimize abrasion and wear by contact withoutside agencies to promote durability.4.2.4 SecurityThe security of a sewn seam dependschiefly upon the stitch type,
33、spi, and its susceptibility tobecome unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the materialto prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread andunraveling of certain stitch types.4.2.5 AppearanceThe appearance of a sewn seam gener-ally is governed by the proper relationship between the size a
34、ndtype of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight ofthe fabric.4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, thetechnique and skill of the sewing machine operators alsogovern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factorswhich will adversely affect the appearance are sh
35、own in Table1.5. Classification of Stitch Types5.1 FunctionBecause all stitch types require that a needlepenetrate a fabric while transporting a sewing thread, it isimportant to understand how the unique characteristics ofNOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall
36、be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed th
37、rough the material from the underside and immediatelypassed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed throughthe material and the loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perfor
38、ation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive thesucceeding stitch.FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch lengthand then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be
39、 moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed throughthe material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross patternof stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and of
40、f-set stitches on the underside of the material.FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204D6193094Copyright by ASTM Intl (all rights reserved); Mon Apr 20 21:02:49 EDT 2009Downloaded/printed byGuo Dehua (CNIS) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.every stitch type are dependent upon the me
41、chanical actions ofthe sewing machine. See Stitch Type Figs. 1-66.5.2 Stitch Requirements:5.2.1 Stitches are divided into six classes which are identi-fied by the first digit of three digit numerals. Each class isdivided into several types which are identified by the secondand third digit. All stitc
42、h types shall conform to the drawingsunless otherwise specified.5.2.1.1 Stitch Class 100This class of stitch (Types 101through 105) is formed with one or more needle threads andrequires interlooping. A loop (or loops) of thread(s) shall bepassed through the material and be secured by interloopingwit
43、h succeeding loop or loops, after they are passed throughthe material, to form a stitch.5.2.1.2 Stitch Class 200This class of stitch (Types 201through 205) is formed by hand with one or more needlethreads and requires that each thread passes through thematerial as a single line of thread. Each stitc
44、h is secured by thesingle line of thread passing in and out of the material or theinterlooping of the threads with themselves. When more thanone thread is used, the threads pass through the same perfora-tions in the material.5.2.1.3 Stitch Class 300This class of stitch (Types 301through 316) is form
45、ed with two or more groups of threads andrequires the interlacing of the two groups. Loops of the firstgroup are passed through the material where they are securedby the thread(s) of the second group to form a stitch.5.2.1.4 Stitch Class 400This class of stitch (Types 401through 407) shall be formed
46、 with two or more groups ofthreads and requires the interlacing and interlooping of theloops of the two groups. Loops of the first group of threads areNOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop wit
47、hitself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returnedby another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: on
48、e needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passedthrough the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the materialor materials being sewn.FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301NOTE 1This type of s
49、titch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A8, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A8shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302D6193095Copyright by ASTM Intl (all rights reserved); Mon Apr 20 21:02:49 EDT 2009Downloaded/printed byGuo Dehua (CNIS) pursuant to License Agreement. No further reproductions authorized.passed through the material and are secured by interlacing andinterlooping w
