1、Designation: D4845 10Standard Terminology Relating toWool1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the y
2、ear of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.acid content, nof felt, the number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribedconditions. D461alkali-solubility, nin wool, the percent of clea
3、n wool that issoluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D1283alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber isobtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.D2252DISCUSSIONAlp
4、aca is normally classified according to type, repre-senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to aspecific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species ofanimal, or preparation for market.animal fiber, nany natural protein-base fiber.D1574, D4510aqueous extract, ni
5、n wool testing, the solution obtained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D2165average fiber diameter, nin wool and other animal fibers,the average width of a group of fibers when measured on aprojected image. D2130, D2252, D3991, D3992b
6、lack felt, nthose classifications of felt manufactured tovarious shades of the color black. D2475breaking tenacity, nthe tenacity corresponding to the break-ing load. D1294, D2524DISCUSSIONBreaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams-force per tex (gf/tex), grams-force per denier (gf/den), milli
7、newtons pertex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons arenumerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.burr-wool waste, nwaste removed by the burr guard ofcards or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full ofburrs or seeds. D4845DISCUSSIONThe nature of the waste varies accord
8、ing to the woolfrom which the burrs are taken.carbonized and neutralized wool, na term descriptive ofscoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities bytreating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying andbaking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosicmatter followed by neutral
9、ization of the acidified wool.D2118carded wool, nscoured wool which has been processedthrough a carding machine. D1575cashmere, nin roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair orproducts made therewith having a cashmere coarse-haircontent not exceeding a specified maximum percentage bylength. D2816, D28
10、17cashmere coarse-hair, nthose coarse fibers in cashmere hairhaving widths greater than 30 m. D2816, D2817cashmere coarse-hair content, nthe total length of thecashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as apercentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;that is, the perc
11、entage by length of cashmere coarse-hair incashmere hair. D2816, D2817cashmere down, nthose fibers in cashmere hair havingwidths of 30 m or less. D2816, D2817cashmere hair, nthe fibers produced by a form of goat(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-mere goat. D2816, D2817DISCUSSION
12、Characteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.clean wool fiber present, nin raw wool, the mass of woolbase present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture contentof 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and amineral matter content of
13、 0.5 %. D584, D1060, D1334colored fiber, nin wool top, any fiber the color or shade ofwhich differs from the normal color or shade of the fibermass of the sample. D1770combing wool, nwool that is strong and strictly of combinglength, that is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D4845commercial composition, nin w
14、ool, the percentages byweight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-basecomponents in wool to which a specific commercial desig-nation is applied. D2720commercial designation, nin wool, a term applied to a lot ofwool in a stated form, and having a specified commercialcomposition. D2720commercial
15、 moisture content, nthe moisture calculated asa percentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn,fabric, etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containing1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Woo
16、l and Felt.Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally approvedin 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as D4845 09. DOI: 10.1520/D4845-10.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.whatever moi
17、sture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matterthat may be present. D2118DISCUSSIONThe term “moisture regain” as defined in TerminologyD123,2leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis forcalculation, which do not occur when the term “moisture content” isused. Moisture content can
18、be applied directly to the product in the as-iscondition while moisture regain mercial weight, nbilled weight as determined by agenerally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaserand the seller. D2720DISCUSSIONFor shipments of commercially designated scouredwool, wool top, or wool noil, the g
19、enerally accepted commercial weightis the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined bydefinite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and othercomponents corresponding to the commercial composition of thecommercially designated material.constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) ty
20、pe tensile testing ma-chine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance withincreasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).D1294, D2524constant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testing ma-chine
21、, nin testing tensile, an apparatus in which the rate ofincrease of the force is uniform with time after the first 3 sand the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation beingdependent on the extension characteristics of the specimen atany applied force. D1294, D2524constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT)
22、 type tensile testing ma-chine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force isapplied through the other clamp, which moves appreciablyto actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate ofincrease of force or extension that is usually not co
23、nstant andis dependent on the extension characteristics of the speci-men. D1294, D2524core, nin sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool orother fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D1060cortex, nin mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of thefiber made up of elongated cells. D4510cuticl
24、e, nin mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattenedcells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope ofoverlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D4510diameter, average fiberSee average fiber diameter.dimensional change in boiling water (felt), nthe change inlength and width with any associated c
25、hange in thicknessproduced by immersion in boiling water under specifiedconditions. D461epidermis, nin mammalian hair fibers, the outside or surfacelayer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells orscales. D4845extractable matter, nnonfibrous material in or on a textile,not including w
26、ater, which is removable by a specifiedsolvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.D461, D1574DISCUSSIONExtractable matter does not include moisture but (1)isnon-fibrous material, (2) is usually oily, waxy, or resinous in nature, and(3) may include protein, particularly if the extractin
27、g solvent is ethylalcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.felt, na textile structure characterized by interlocking andconsolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,chemical action, moisture, and heat but without the use ofweaving, knitt
28、ing, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.D2475DISCUSSIONIn practice, light needling may be used to supplementthe ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.fineness, nof textile fibers, a relative measure of size,diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed ina variety of
29、units. D2252, D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThe fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers isexpressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter inmicrometers (m).flame resistance, nthe property of a material wherebyflaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibitedfollowing applica
30、tion of a flaming or nonflaming source ofignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignitionsource. D461gage length, nin tensile testing, the length of a specimenmeasured between the points of attachment to clamps whileunder uniform tension. D1294, D2524grade, nin wool and mohair, a numeric
31、al designation used inclassifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,and processed forms based on average fiber diameter andvariation of fiber diameter. D2130, D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThe term “grade” should not be confused with the terms“quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that include
32、s not only finenessbut also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the fiberand the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradforddesignations, for which no standards exist, use a scale similar t
33、o that forgrade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality andnot solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particularcombination of characteristics applicable to a specific use or descriptiveof geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.gray felt, n
34、a blend of white fibers with naturally colored ordyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.D2475grease wool, nwool taken from the living sheep and whichhas not been commercially scoured.D1234, D1574, D1576, D2462hair, nnatural animal fiber other than sheeps wool or silk.D4845DISCUS
35、SIONIt is recognized that this definition implies a distinctionbetween sheeps wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form andthe scaly structure are not confined to sheeps wool. It seems desirablein the textile trade, howe
36、ver, to avoid ambiguity by confining the term2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.D4845 102wool to
37、 the covering of sheep and to have available a general term forother fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers areknown by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively theyare classed as hairs.kemp fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which thediameter of the medulla
38、 is 60 %, or more, of the diameter ofthe fiber. D2968laboratory sample, na portion of material taken to representthe lot sample, or the original material, and used in thelaboratory as a source of test specimens. D2525laboratory sample, nin wool top, the portions drawn fromthe lot in accordance with
39、the described procedure. D1770lot, nin acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment orshipment consisting of a material from one production lot.D2525lot, nin wool, top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000lb (9100 kg) of a single combing, that comprises a single unitfor which a test for neps
40、, vegetable matter or colored fiber,or all three combined is desired. D1770lot sample, none or more shipping units taken at random torepresent an acceptance sampling lot and used as a source oflaboratory samples. D2525med fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which the diameterof the medulla is less
41、than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber.D2968medulla, nin mammalian hair fibers, the more or lesscontinuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer in mostmedium and coarse fibers. D2968medullated fiber, nan animal fiber that in its original stateincludes a medulla. D2968merino, adjfrom pure-bred m
42、erino sheep. D4845DISCUSSIONMerino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 m orless.mohair, nthe hair of the Angora goat, Capra species.D3991, D3992moisture content, nthe amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescribed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moist mate
43、rial, that is, theoriginal mass comprising the dried substance plus anymoisture present. D1576, D2462DISCUSSIONThe term “mass” is the correct designation for theproperty commonly designated as “weight.”Aslight amount of residualmoisture may not be removed from a specimen subjected to ovendrying beca
44、use of the relative humidity of the ambient air. The amountof moisture retained by a specimen may be estimated from publisheddata.3There may also be a slight additional loss in mass caused by theevaporation of volatile material other than water, the amount dependingon the characteristics of any adde
45、d oils or emulsions.moisture-free, adjthe condition of a material that has beenexposed in an atmosphere of desiccated air until there is nofurther significant change in its mass. D1576, D2462DISCUSSIONHeating the material and the desiccated air to tempera-tures as high as 110C increases the rate of
46、moisture loss but does notchange the final equilibrium mass of the moisture-free material.moisture regain, nthe amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescribed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moisture-free material.D1576, D2462natural fiber, na class name for v
47、arious genera of fibers(including filaments) of (1) animal, (2) mineral, or (3)vegetable origin. D4845DISCUSSIONExamples(1) Silk and wool, (2) asbestos, (3) cotton,flax, jute, ramie.needled felt, na textile structure composed entirely of fibersphysically interlocked and reoriented through the action
48、 offelting needles. D2475nep, none or more fibers occurring in a tangled andunorganized mass. D1770noil, nthe short fibers removed in combing; applied particu-larly to wool, but also to other fibers such as cotton, silk, andrayon. D4845other alkali-insoluble impurities, nin scoured wool, oven-dried,
49、 ash-free, alcohol-extractives-free, alkali-insolublesubstances other than vegetable matter base, such as skin,cotton or other fibers, paper, string, tag (dung) pieces, paintpieces, etc. D584, D1113, D1334oven-dried, adjthe condition of a material that has beenheated under prescribed conditions of temperature andhumidity until there is no further significant change in itsmass. D584, D1113, D1334, D1576, D2462, D2720DISCUSSIONAn oven-dry material will retain a small amount ofmoisture which
